Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

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Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by Dirk »

This is all the info you'll need to do an oil change on your Beetle. I wrote it specifically for those who have never done it before.

CAUTION:
These are common mistakes, so I list them here, as things you should NOT DO!

1.) DO NOT jack it up.
Jacking up the car tilts the sump, making it impossible for the old oil to drain out.

2.) DO NOT change the oil when the car is too cold.
Especially during winter. Cold oil does not flow, so it won't drain.

If you are doing this first thing in the morning. Take your car for a run around the block, literally just enough to warm the engine up.

3.) DO NOT change the oil when the car is too hot.
Hot oil will burn you, trust me, you don't want to get burnt by hot oil.

Remember this: Oil sticks to you. Hot oil, sticks to you while taking off your skin.

An easy check to prevent this, is to take out the dipstick. If it is warm but comfortable to hold you are in a good spot. If it's not comfortable to hold, give the engine time to cool down until it is.

4.) Top up with what you used last time.
DO NOT top up with a brand or type of oil other then the brand and type of your last oil change. You are inviting trouble if you do.

A WORD ON OIL:
I'll skip all the technical jargon and break it down into human speak. All you need are the details in the short version. The long version is there for those who want to know more, or need to know why the short version states what it does.

The short version:
In South Africa, the oil you want to get is Shell Synthetic 10w40.

WARNING: Stay away from 20w50.

WARNING: Do not use NON-synthetic oil, after having used synthetic oil.

The long version: (You can safely skip this)
WARNING: Stay away from 20w50.
You stand a good chance to loose your engine if you do use 20w50. It is simply to thick at both low and high temperatures. This means your engine does not get warmed up or cooled properly, leading to a dead engine in almost no time at all. 20w50 is a common oil for water cooled engines in South Africa. Ignorance on the part of owners and mechanics alike, has led to this being used in air-cooled engines.

WARNING: Do not use non-synthetic oil, after having used synthetic oil.
Going back to non-synthetic oil, after having used synthetic, is an excellent way to kill your engine. Synthetic oil has detergents in it that clean gunk out of the parts that need oil. Using non-synthetic oil afterwards is like running sand through your wet, just-washed hands. The sand just sticks to your hands. In an engine, this is a recipe for death.

Brand of oil:
As far as brand of oil is concerned, the debates have been far and wide. General consensus from my research is that, at least in South Africa, you'd do better if you buy Shell.

Now that we have that out of the way, let's get to what you'll need.

TOOLS:
Time:
Yes, time is a tool. Budget for around 2 hours if this is your first attempt.

Patience and the will to do the job right:
Without patience, you should rather not do this. Without will, you'll never get to do it, so why bother reading this in the first place.

Knowledge:
Reading this will provide you the knowledge you need. Print it out and take it with you as a reminder, when you tackle the job. But read the whole damn thing before attempting to do the job.

Space:
a FLAT area to park your car and work in.

Wrenches:
A 10mm box closed wrench OR a 10mm socket with socket wrench. An adjustable wrench.
You won't need the adjustable wrench if you have an older type Beetle, that does not have an oil draining nut on the sump cover.

Screw driver:
A flat one.

A Flat container:
One that easily fits under your car, with space enough to work on the sump cover. It has to be capable of holding at least 2 litres of liquid. 3 litres would be better. Empty Ice-cream containers do the trick for me.

A funnel:
If you can, get the type with a flexible end and a built in strainer. If yours does not have a built in strainer, you'll have to get a separate strainer. DON'T USE YOUR WIFE/GIRLFRIEND's TEA STRAINER. The chopped off head of a plastic 2 litre Coke bottle, can be substituted for a funnel, but will be uncomfortable to work with.

Overalls OR a set of old clothes:
As a married man I can not stress this point enough. It's no use if your engine lasts but your marriage goes boom because your wife gets fed up with finding your oily clothes amongst the non-oiled washing.

A bottle, to keep the old oil in:
Capable of holding at least 2 litres, 3 would be better. Don't just throw the old oil away. It can and has to be recycled. Especially with the oil price as high as it is today. All you have to do is take it to you nearest auto repair centre and ask them to add it to their bin of used oil. From there it will be picked up and recycled. Old car oil also has a couple of DIY uses around the house. So you have no excuse for throwing it away.

5 Litres of new Oil:
For the actual oil change you'll only need about 2.5 Litres.
The rest is there for you to put into smaller containers, that you can keep in your car for emergencies and topping up. Make sure the containers you use do not leak.

200 ml of Paraffin:
You'll use this to clean the oil filter, sump cover, your tools and your hands. You can also clean the filter, sump cover and tools in petrol, but paraffin is one hell of a lot cheaper and works just as well.

An old towel or something similar:
To place under the container that will catch the oil. This serves two purposes. The first being to prevent oil drops staining your garage floor. The second being a layer between you and the cold floor.

A CLEAN, open mouthed container:
Shaped like a cup, capable of holding 0.5 to 1 litre.
You'll need this to be a comfortable container to hold, as you will decant the new oil into this container before putting it in the engine. The bottom end of a 2 litre Coke bottle works well. Just make damn sure it is clean.

A basin/bucket/container for the paraffin.
For washing the filter, sump cover, tools and your hands.

A basin/bucket/container with warm soapy water in it:
For washing yourself. Yes you'll have to clean the paraffin off somehow.
DON'T DO IT INSIDE THE HOUSE.
You'll cause endless hassle for yourself if you do.

Cloth:
A clean one and a not so clean one.

A plastic bag:
To line the old oil catcher for ease of cleaning.

Optional tools:
An LED Headlight:
This is the one tool I can not live without. I've not worked on my Beetle without it strapped to my head and shining clear, white light where ever I happen to look.

A nail brush.
For cleaning your nails and fingers.

SPARES:
Oil gasket kit:
They are still easily obtainable from your local Auto shop. You'll get two gaskets in a set. YOU WILL NEED BOTH. If at all possible, buy two sets, so you'll have a spare for emergencies. Don't throw away your old set, as they can help you if your or a friend are ever in a tight spot.

New oil filter: (just in case the old one is busted)
Note, that the stock oil filter on an air-air-cooled engine can not be replaced by the oil filter of most cars out there. Make sure you get the right thing. The average oil filters you get looks like a big tin can. What you want, looks like an upside down tea strainer with a flat metal plate that has 6 holes in it. Your local Auto Spares shop will be able to point you in the right direction.

AND NOW WE GET TO DOING THE JOB.
1.) Make sure you have everything for the job.
You should do this the day before you do your oil change. You do not want to get half way through draining the old oil, only to realize you don't have a replacement gasket set.

2.) Get ready to do the job.
Put on you overalls or old clothes.
Go to your car and place all your equipment where you can find them, within easy reach.

This is a matter of personal taste, but better organization will lead to less time spent and next to nothing to clean up afterwards. I arrange my tools down the sides. Never behind me as getting up and tripping over your own tools is never a pleasant experience.

3.) Relax and breathe.
Seat yourself behind the engine.
Take a look around you.
See all your tools and spares.
Visualize what you are about to do.

YES! Talking to your car and explaining to it what you are about to do, is COMPLETELY ACCEPTABLE! You don't have to, but Beetles seem to appreciate good bedside manner from their mechanics.

If you have opted to use an LED headlamp. Now is a good time to slap it on and switch it on.

4.) Getting the old oil out.
Spread the towel under the engine, far enough in so that you plenty of towel under the sump.

Grab your flat container and line it with a plastic bag.

Get down on the ground. If you are right-handed, lie on your right hand side. If you are left-handed, lie on your left hand side. Make sure that your adjustable wrench, 10mm closed box wrench OR 10mm socket with socket wrench and flat container are in front of you and easily reachable.

Locate the sump cover, it is the nice round circle in the middle of the sump.
Inspect it, take note of the 6 nuts on the outer rim of the sump cover.
On early Beetles, you'll only see those 6 nuts. On later Beetles, you'll also find a single big nut in the centre of the sump cover.

That single big nut is for draining the oil without removing the entire cover. It makes for a cleaner job, but if you don't have that nut, don't despair. I don't have it on my Beetle and I walk away with a clean garage floor anyway.

Place the flat container with plastic lining directly under the sump cover.

Now we get to draining the old oil out.

If you have that big nut in the centre of the sump cover.
Get hold of your adjustable wrench. Place it over the nut and adjust it so that it fits snugly. Now gently remove the nut.

As you remove it, oil will begin to flow out of the sump. Get the nut out completely. If you loose your hold on it and it drops into the flat container, don't fret, you can fish it out later.

If you don't have that big nut.
Grab your 10mm wrench or 10mm socket and socket wrench.
Loosen the 6 nuts in opposing order.

JUST LOOSEN THEM DO NOT TAKE THEM OFF COMPLETELY.

Do this slowly and with patience, in opposing order. NOT CLOCK OR ANTI-CLOCK WISE. OPPOSING, as in the nut opposite not the nut next too.

At some point the sump cover will get loose enough for the oil to start dripping out. Your hands will get dirty, but if you placed the flat container correctly, you won't spill any oil on the floor. The towel will catch any stray drops.

Continue to loosen the nuts until the oil flows freely.

Now that the oil is flowing out, you can get out from under your Beetle.
Wash most of the oil on your hands off in that bucket of warm soapy water and go get yourself a cup of coffee/tea.

Leave your Beetle to do it's thing for about 15 to 20 minutes.
Take this time to review what you are going to do next.

5.) Removing the sump cover and filter.
So, you've been draining the oil out and it's been about 15 to 20 minutes since it started flowing.

Put down your empty cup of tea/coffee and thank whoever made it for you. If you made it yourself, I hope you cleaned yourself enough, not to leave black marks all over your kitchen.

Get back to your Beetle.

Get on your knees and check the flow of oil. It should now be dripping slowly, so it's time to take off the sump cover.

Get down on your left/right side again, armed with your 10mm wrench or socket.

Completely remove the 6 nuts, loosening each one and in opposing order.

Once the nut are out you can get hold of the sump cover and remove it. For the most part it will come down to meet you, if it doesn't, you might have to use the flat screw driver in order to get it down. Be careful though, as the oil filter is directly above the sump cover.

If the oil filter does not join the sump cover on the way down, fish it out of the engine with your fingers. Make sure both the old gaskets come out along with the filter and sump cover.

NOTE: Some mechanics have been known to be lazy/stupid/ignorant and install only one gasket. If you find only one, make sure there isn't a gasket still stuck to the sump.

Get out from under the car, bringing the sump cover, filter and old gaskets with you.

Find your paraffin, if you haven't pored it into a bucket, do it now.

Grab the sump cover, place it in the paraffin and clean it. Make sure you get any gunk off of it. Once it's clean place it somewhere safe and clean to dry.

Grab the oil filter. Hold it on the plate and slosh it around in the paraffin, until it's clean and shiny. Once it's clean, check it for damage.
If it's damaged, get out your new oil filter and chuck the old one in the bin.
If the old one isn't damaged, smile and thank your Beetle for such good behaviour.
If you are sticking with your old oil filter. Place it somewhere safe and clean to dry.

By this time, pretty much all the old oil should have dripped out of your engine. Get your funnel and the bottle you have reserved for storing your old oil. Slowly and carefully get the flat container out from under the engine.

Decant the old oil into the bottle, using your funnel to make life easier. If your funnel does not have a strainer in it, you'll have to make do with what you can find to use in stead. Once you have decanted all the old oil into the bottle, check the strainer for metal filings.

If there are metal filings, know that you are going to need an engine overhaul soon. If the old oil has obvious white streaks in it, you should be worried, very worried.

THIS IS INCREDIBLY BAD, get your car to a professional air-cooled VW mechanic. One that loves his work and the cars he works on.

The old oil should be black and smooth to the touch. Clean your hands and dip your fingers in the old oil. Rub your fingers together, if it feels gritty get your engine to a professional as soon as humanly possible.

Assuming that all is well, and even if it isn't. It's time to clean the funnel.

Use the paraffin and the not so clean cloth to get all the old oil out of it. Once it's clean, rinse it off in clean, warm water. Leave it in a safe, clean place to dry.

6.) Put the oil filter and sump cover back.
Get your gasket set ready.

Take out one gasket and place it under the oil filter. Make sure to line up the holes.

Place the other gasket on top of the oil filter, again lining up the holes.

Get your sump cover and place it underneath all of that, lining up the holes again.

Take all of this and place it back on to the sump, with the filter going into the engine.

Get one of your 6 nuts and fasten it by hand, so that it holds the sump cover, filter and gaskets in place. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT YET!

Get your other 5 nuts and fasten them by hand, again in opposing order.

Grab your 10mm wrench or socket and proceed to tighten the nuts, still going in opposing order. Make sure to get the nuts nice and tight, but take care not to strip the nuts, or bolts they go on to.

If you have an oil draining bolt in your sump cover, now is the time to put it back.

Get out from under the car.

7.) Filling up with the good stuff.
If you haven't done it yet, pop the hood. Make sure your hands are clean. Locate the oil filler cap and the dip stick.

Get hold of your clean container, the one that is easy to hold and cup-shaped.

Bring your funnel closer, make sure it has completely dried. You don't want to get any water in your engine.

Remove the oil cap and place it somewhere clean and safe.
Place you funnel in the hole left by the oil cap.
Take out the dip stick, clean it and put it back again.
Bring the 5l can of new oil closer. Open it and decant some of it into your clean container. Now empty the clean container into the funnel, make sure you are using the strainer again, even new oil can have unwanted objects floating around.

Get a litre of oil down that pipe.

Check under the engine to make sure the oil isn't simply running straight through a badly fastened sump cover.

Get up and stretch for 2 to 3 minutes, this elevates your muscles and allows the oil time to get to the sump.

Get down again, looking under the engine and make sure nothing is dripping out.

Now you have to start working slower. You don't want to over fill your Beetle as it's a great way to blow seals. Blowing seals is BAD! So, take out the dip stick and check the level. Clean it and put it back again.

Now you start filling in 250-500ml batches. Repeatedly taking out the dip stick to check the oil level.

After every batch you get down the pipe, allow the oil 2 to 3 minutes to get to the sump. Then check the dip stick for the oil level again, clean it, and put it back again.

Do this until you are almost at the FULL mark on the dipstick. You have to do this slowly, and carefully, as over filling can not easily be undone.

You'll end up using approximately 2.5 litres of oil. Take what's left over and store it. It's a good idea to take a clean 500ml bottle filled with your new oil and keep it in your Beetle for emergencies.

Once your Beetle is all filled up, put the oil cap back and make sure the dip stick is back in.

Double check that no oil is dripping out of the sump cover. If there is, take the time to tighten those nuts.

Now start your Beetle and make sure all is fine. Make sure all tools are well away from your engine before doing this.

8.) Clean up.
Use the paraffin to clean your tools, equipment and hands.

Pack your tools away.

Go clean yourself, with the clean cloth, soap and water.

There is a product for sale here in SA, called CHEMICO. It comes in a pink container. If you can get some it's great for getting oil off your skin. Use sparingly though, as it does burn slightly.

SMILE, you've just done an oil change.


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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by Tony Z »

Eben, can you make this a sticky too....
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by Blitzkrieg »

Very informative post Dirk :)

Sticky !!!!!!!!!1
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by SUZIE »

Hi Dirk

Can you do us one on a step by step to overall a Aircooled vw engine please.

he he he good work Dirk, can see you have endless pasion in you for you ACVW
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by Tony Z »

Good thread. Lots of good info and ideas. Well done

I must admit, I dont agree on 3 of your comments.

1) your comments on metal shavings being bad. Well yes, its not a good thing, but it is regular and you will always have some shavings.
The best thing to do here is attach a magnet to your sump plate or get a magnetic drain plug. That will pick up all the metal shavings. If you notice a major increase of shavings from one oil change to another, then its a time to get worried. Dont forget, things wear out and thats the metal you see.

2) Synthetic oils have dispersants but mineral oils dont. All decent modern oils (synth, mineral and semi-synth) have dispersant properties, along with anti-faoming, anti-sludging and many others.

3) Shell 10W40 is the only oil to use.
I do agree that shell is a good oil. But dont limit yourself to only 10W40. And the comments to 20W50 being too thick when cold and too thick when hot are totally incorrect.
A multigrade oil has the properties of more than one grade of oil. VW has recommended a 40 grade oil for the bug in the past. A 20W50 has the viscosity (flow property - thick or thin) of a 20 grade when cold, which means it gets to your engine parts easier and quicker and works properly earlier in the warming up process (if the oil is too thick, it wont get to where its needed). Then as it warms up, it remains thicker for longer and serves as a 50grade oil when warm. Which yes, is a bit thicker than 40.
I could go quite deep into this, but think of it in a simple way - if the oil is too thin, then it wont support any load, meaning that any load will squeeze the oil out from between the metal surfaces and then you will have metal to metal contact (VERY VERY BAD)

One thing you didnt mention which hopefully you will learn in time
Listen to your engine. It speaks to you when you know how to listen to it.
I have had bad experiences with some oils in the past and after a quick trip down the highway at high speed (160 plus). Some oils simply couldnt cope with the condition in my engine at the time. You will hear the sound of the engine change, this means that the oil has thinned out and "collapsed" and you need to change the oil again. Experimenting with oil until you find one that copes with all the things you ask of the engine is the key here.

Just remember that oil is the blood in your engine. Buying cheap oil may work, but you are asking for trouble. Better oil is just that, better, and it will make the engine last longer.
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by eben »

Great write up, but I also echo Tony's views above WRT the oil.
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by Cyberbeast »

I also agree with Tony... I know you have warned me NOT to use Castrol GTX 20W50 oil in my Beetle, Dirk, but to be honest with you, my opinion is that 20W50 oil(excluding synthetic oil) is scientifically a better type of oil than 10W40 oil (excluding synthetic oils). The reason is because they add polymers to multi grade mineral oil to make them behave as the respective grade oils at specific temperatures. What I mean is that 20W50 oil will behave like 20 Grade oil when cold, but when hot, it won't thin out MORE that a 50 grade oil would when hot, and to achieve this, they add "polymers" to the oil... The point that I want to make is that I have read that they actually have to add more polymers to the oil base to get 10W40 oils, than to get 20W50, which makes the 20W50 better, because these "polymers" do NOT lubricate, so according to me, you want less of it in the oil.

Also, 20W50 is good for the South African climate, since it should be used areas with ambient temperatures between -10'C, up to 30'C, so 30 years ago, VW didn't want people to use multi grade oils in the Aircooled VW's, because at that point the multi grade oils were too unstable.

I respect your opinion about oils, but I just cant figure out why 20W50 will kill an aircooled VW... Like Tony said, it won't become too thick when cold, or useless when hot. It is fine. And What is wrong with Castrol GTX? I agree that is won't be as good as Shell, or AGIP, but at least it is FAR better than a lot of other crap brands that shops sell.

The last point I want to make is that I know full-synthetic oil is better than mineral oils, which means that a lot of what I have said above do not apply to synthetic oil, and that using synthetic oil is very good for the engine, but in an Aircooled VW, I can't see the point. Why: Because synthetic oil has proven to remain more stable for longer, which means that you can extend oil changes when using synthetic oil. In modern engines, this makes perfect sense, but not in aircooled VW engines, because of the lack of propper oil filtration systems. As we all know this isn't a major problem, as long as you do oil changes at regular intervals, like every 5000Ks. So can you see the problem... every 5000Ks, you are going to "waste" the synthetic oil, because it hasn't reached a fraction of it's service life, which is probably up to 40 000 Kilometers. In my opinion, this does not justify the higher price you pay for the oil.

One of the sources where I read about Engine oils, is on these pages: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm and http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

I may also use Shell oil for my Beetle at the next oil change, which is due in about 1000Km, but I'm gonna continue to go for 20W50, possibly HIgh Mileage type... just to test it. :hangloose:
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by calooker »

Castrol GTX is king for me, I use nothing else, have been doing so for longer than I can remember. New generation oils (synthetics etc.) are made to do a job for at least 15000 kms in new generation engines, you should be doing a oil change to your ACVW every 5000kms, I don't see the point of expensive oils.
Use 10W40 in our climate with a not so new motor and watch that oil pressure (idiot light) flash like a disco light on the highway. Stay away from 10w40 oil in your aircooled ride we don't live in a cold climate.
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by calooker »

There are a few tips I could add, hopefully help prevent oil leaks.
The sump plate needs a litle work, when you remove it, clean it up and look at the 6 holes, most of the time they have mushroomed and are no longer flush due to over tightening etc.
I normaly take a ball peen hammer and on a vice try and get the area around the hole as flat as possible again, then with a file just do a litle work to get everything clean and flush on the gasket side again.
The strainer should be trial fitted before bolting up, the reason is the ones we get now days are of such poor quality that they don't fit over the oil pickup or studs properly, normaly a round file is used to open up the 6 holes on the strainer a little, the opening that fits over the the pick up tube should be a snug fit not too open and not too closed, so check it.
I use a little RTV sealant on the gaskets, just a thin film to fill the gaps.
I use larger dia washers to help spread the load with RTV on the stud threads.
I use teflon (plumbers) tape on the sump plug threads.
Don't overtighten the 6 nuts they only need a light torque to spec. they have a tendancy to pull out. I replace the studs with bolts & a spring washer from the inside of the block when rebuilding a motor to prevent this thing from happening, almost all engines need work in one or all studs in this area.
Do this, no oil leaks guaranteed.
BTW I dont like Parafin to clean parts, it's has too much oil in it and not the ideal thing when matched up with sealants. I prefer non oil based solvents.
Benzeen or thinners for me.
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by Edmond »

Ive used Castrol GTX 20W50 oil in my Baja Bug for the last 12 years and never had a days trouble.
I agree with Rui's comments about the oil strainer and sump plate.I had a stud strip in the casing so I will take note of Rui's notes to use bolts. :D
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by Cyberbeast »

I have a question, guys. If one of the case studs for the sump plate gets stripped, or is busy stripping (like mine), what can one do to fix that, besides opening up the engine and fitting stuff from the inside... I have read that one can get new studds to put in.
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by Tony Z »

The wrong answer is lots of Red-devil gasket sealant.
With a bit of effort, you might be able to put a bolt in from the thru the strainer hole. Just dont loose it... loctite will help to keep it in place.
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by calooker »

There are 2 options to repair stripped threads in place firstly you can get a helicoil fitted or you can get a 1mm larger stud drilled & tapped into the original hole then you need to increase the dia of the hole on the sump plate and strainer, you can also get a stepped stud made up that fit's in the same way but saves you from increasing the dia of the strainer & sump plate.
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Tony Z
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by Tony Z »

Tony Z wrote:Eben, can you make this a sticky too....
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Re: Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.

Post by Blitzkrieg »

At least us Type 4 guys have an oil filter that comes from the factory :twisted:

Not to mention a normal drain plug to get all the oil out :wink:
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