Hendriks 1978 Bay
- jolas
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
Original silver rims always finish a late bay off nicely
by fig » Mar 26, 2018
Sambas in South Africa are good for only 2 things: showing off and sunburn.
Sambas in South Africa are good for only 2 things: showing off and sunburn.
- freddiebooysen
- Crankshaft
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
That bus will be mostly original when you do the rims silver and will look cool.
And if you going to redo the white roof mmmm why not go aircooled maybe an original motor will finish it off nicely as well.
You can always up the engine a bit but I’m doing that will increase the value a bit in my opinion. Nothing like an original bus with original motor as well.
And if you going to redo the white roof mmmm why not go aircooled maybe an original motor will finish it off nicely as well.
You can always up the engine a bit but I’m doing that will increase the value a bit in my opinion. Nothing like an original bus with original motor as well.
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- Oil Pump
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- Crankshaft
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
Hi. So we started with body work.
We are so excited about the project.
Found a reference pic of what we going for -/it is a close to priginal style and colour as we will be able to get.
Got paint mixed for both yellow (bottom) and white (top). Both colours mixed to match original....
Small dents removed and filled where needed. Rust treated.
Welded some holes shut (funny side indicators, scew arial, spotlights on bumper area.
Windscreen came out as it is cracked anyway an d the usual rust under the rubber getting some love. Only two small holes though - so very happy that we did not have to weld much.
I have removed about 5/meters of useless eiring from under the dash.
Comments welcome.
We are so excited about the project.
Found a reference pic of what we going for -/it is a close to priginal style and colour as we will be able to get.
Got paint mixed for both yellow (bottom) and white (top). Both colours mixed to match original....
Small dents removed and filled where needed. Rust treated.
Welded some holes shut (funny side indicators, scew arial, spotlights on bumper area.
Windscreen came out as it is cracked anyway an d the usual rust under the rubber getting some love. Only two small holes though - so very happy that we did not have to weld much.
I have removed about 5/meters of useless eiring from under the dash.
Comments welcome.
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- sean
- Transmission
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
Hi Hendriks
I was going to offer some advice and warning, but see you have jumped speedily ahead.
That rust converter / inhibitor is bad news. Its going to carry on reacting under the paint and cause blisters to appear. I have found the best for surface rust removal (where it doesn't justify a panel replacement) is to sand blast. It will remove all the rust and only leave good metal. Then primer straight away with a Marine grade epoxy primer. Filler to be applied on top of this to smooth off.
That MS primer you are using is also terrible stuff, I cant believe its still on the market. A HS (high solid) primer will give you a much better base and have no shrinkage like MS primer. Also purchase a brand like SpiesHecker or Glasurit that will give you many years of quality finish. Cheap paint will look good for a little while, but pretty soon it will look worse than before you started.
I was going to offer some advice and warning, but see you have jumped speedily ahead.
That rust converter / inhibitor is bad news. Its going to carry on reacting under the paint and cause blisters to appear. I have found the best for surface rust removal (where it doesn't justify a panel replacement) is to sand blast. It will remove all the rust and only leave good metal. Then primer straight away with a Marine grade epoxy primer. Filler to be applied on top of this to smooth off.
That MS primer you are using is also terrible stuff, I cant believe its still on the market. A HS (high solid) primer will give you a much better base and have no shrinkage like MS primer. Also purchase a brand like SpiesHecker or Glasurit that will give you many years of quality finish. Cheap paint will look good for a little while, but pretty soon it will look worse than before you started.
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- Crankshaft
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
Hi Sean.
Thats good advise but makes my me feel very uncomfortable thinking of what we have done already.
Your advise is welcome, so please let me know should you thinknof anything else.
Thats good advise but makes my me feel very uncomfortable thinking of what we have done already.
Your advise is welcome, so please let me know should you thinknof anything else.
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- Crankshaft
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
Hi Sean.
Thats good advise but makes my me feel very uncomfortable thinking of what we have done already.
Your advise is welcome, so please let me know should you thinknof anything else.
Thats good advise but makes my me feel very uncomfortable thinking of what we have done already.
Your advise is welcome, so please let me know should you thinknof anything else.
- Donovan D
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
On the rust converter stuff - I read somewhere that it chemically reacts once in contact with rust.
What happens is the guy using the stuff takes a brush and dips it in the NS4 then paints it on the rusted areas, then sticks the 'contaminated' brush back in the NS4 container. This causes the chemical reaction to start in the NS4 container.
After a few days the NS4 container has now already reacted and is now useless when applying to rusted areas
What happens is the guy using the stuff takes a brush and dips it in the NS4 then paints it on the rusted areas, then sticks the 'contaminated' brush back in the NS4 container. This causes the chemical reaction to start in the NS4 container.
After a few days the NS4 container has now already reacted and is now useless when applying to rusted areas
---------- 67 Panelvan -----------
---------- 56 Oval ----------
---------- 56 Oval ----------
- sean
- Transmission
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
This is true. The other issue is that its listed as "rust convertor and primer". The primer is the big mistake. This is where the biggest issue comes in. New paint is applied on top of it and it carries on reacting causing blisters. It must be washed off with water as its water based. It can be applied with several steps of applying, leaving to react, wash off and start again until its eaten the rust away. Before first step primer it must be cleaned off completely.Donovan D wrote: ↑Wed Aug 22, 2018 8:57 am On the rust converter stuff - I read somewhere that it chemically reacts once in contact with rust.
What happens is the guy using the stuff takes a brush and dips it in the NS4 then paints it on the rusted areas, then sticks the 'contaminated' brush back in the NS4 container. This causes the chemical reaction to start in the NS4 container.
After a few days the NS4 container has now already reacted and is now useless when applying to rusted areas
I again choose to stay away from chemicals and found sand blasting to be the most successful.
- fourier
- Oil Cooler
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
Sean, which marine grade epoxy primer do you use? I used Glasurit 801 in the past on all bare metal, but it is no longer available through the local distributors...
(o= i =o) (o\ ! /o)
- Donovan D
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
---------- 67 Panelvan -----------
---------- 56 Oval ----------
---------- 56 Oval ----------
- fourier
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Re: Hendriks 1978 Bay
Thanks for the link Donovan! There are so many products to choose from. I'll have to contact a rep to see which one to use. I guess only time will tell if the PPG product will be compatible with the Glasurit products I normally use.
(o= i =o) (o\ ! /o)