Galley Plug instructions - Type 4 aero conversion

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Re: Type 4 aero conversion

Post by AirPower »

I am all ears. OK wait - let me print this to get the sizes.

OK - Please do go on. What interests me is how you cut the thread (is that right?) straight into the case.

Mario


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Re: Type 4 aero conversion

Post by T4Flyer »

Hi, I’m back,

First let me just say, to the best of my knowledge the plugs that give the most problems are the 3 big ones at the back of the case, flywheel end (actually 2, maybe +1) and the two in the front, fan end. These require only the 3/8” plugs and many people do only these ones. I chose to do them all because, well just because….. :roll:

The technique used for all plugs is basically the same regardless of which size you are doing.

Let’s assume you have pulled the plug. Now you are going to need to open the hole up using the appropriate drill for the tap you are going to use. (Needless to say, don’t try this with old blunt drills! :oops: )

This is where it gets a bit tricky. You need to drill into the case only deep enough to be able to thread the plug in, don’t drill to deep or your screwed :x (pardon the pun) an old tip I use is to wrap a piece plastic insulation tap around the drill bit so I can see when to stop. Drill less than you think you are going to need and have a look, you can always go deeper, but you can’t put material back. You MUST drill straight, if you are not good at this get some help, sometimes a second pair of eyes help in keeping the drill straight. (Of course a good pedestal drill helps, so does a full machine shop! However, if you are careful and take your time an ordinary hand drill can do the job just fine)

This is important so I’ll sat it again, Drill straight and only deep enough to seat the plug, which when correctly seated should protrude the case +-1 ½ - 2 threads.

Before we start going mad with taps, any questions?

This typing thing is taking longer than doing the job :puterwork:

Cheers
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Re: Type 4 aero conversion

Post by T4Flyer »

And now….

By now, you should have a nicely drilled hole and its time to get tapping.

Why do you have 2 x 3/8” taps? :? Well, the first thing you are going to do is take one tap and put it aside for now.

Take the first tap and place it into your nice new hole (please make sure you use proper thread tapping oil) and slowly start turning in the tap.

You must keep the tap straight. This is not hard to do if you have started with a straight hole. As the tap starts to bit you can make slight adjustments to the angle of the tap, however once the tap has bitten fully into the metal, life becomes very difficult if you have tapped the thread at an angle. :cry:

Remember, don’t just go mad, take your time turn in the tap ½ - ¾ of a turn then turn it back a 1/3 turn. Remove the tap frequently blow out loose metal and start again. Keep checking the depth of your thread, remember “not to deep” a good vernier gauge will help a lot here.

Ok, you should now have a thread that is +- deep enough for you plug, now try to screw in your plug. Problem, it won’t go all the way in. DO NOT force it! :roll: We were expecting that

The NPT thread is tapered and the relatively shallow thread you just cut is on the narrow end of the tap and therefore not wide enough to fully seat your plug (this does not apply to the M12 tap, we’ll come to that later)

Now for that second tap, you are going to need a small angle grinder, a thin metal cutting disk, a vice of some sort and a small jug of water. Place your nice new tap into the vice and have at it with the grinder… :P . Seriously, you are going to cut down your tap +- in half (see my picture in the previous post)

This job is also not too difficult, just take your time. Cut in small steps, stopping frequently and cooling the tap with the water (to much heat will destroy your tap. I usually cut from different sides, finishing off in the centre; it works for me and seems to cause less damage to the threads than hacking straight through. Now use your angle grinder to clean up the thread ends of you newly shortened tap

I hope you now have a custom made tap in your hands, because we are now going to use it. Lub the tap and start the taping process again, this time you are widening the treads to suit your plug go very slowly and check frequently, if you are patient you should be able to tap the thread just enough to allow +- 1 ½ - 2 threads to be showing when the plug is all the way in. 8) “Perfect” you have done the first one, it gets “easier” with practice (its never easy though)

This all makes sense to me, then it would wouldn’t it. PLEASE jump in with questions if I am not explaining clearly or if you think I am over explaining.

This is quite hard for me and if it’s not helping anyone… well….

Cheers.
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Re: Type 4 aero conversion

Post by Bad Ass Bob »

T4,

great thread, im a tool maker by trade and fully appreciate the dedication, time and patience you use on your projects, glad there was someone eager enough to show that a simple looking job is actually quite involved, .............BAB
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Re: Type 4 aero conversion

Post by Blitzkrieg »

No, this is exactly the type of information that I wanted to see, so keep it up :wink:
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Re: Type 4 aero conversion

Post by eben »

:D I'm sure this thread will be used in the future. I'll make a sticky.
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Re: Galley Plug instructions - Type 4 aero conversion

Post by Sambabus »

Pics Pics Pics!!!!!
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Re: Galley Plug instructions - Type 4 aero conversion

Post by T4Flyer »

Thanks for the responses; it appears that I must continue.

What pics would you like? On the subject of “oil gallery plugs” I have posted finished cases, taps (cut & uncut) I am not a photographer but I will try!

Let’s get back. If you have followed the previous posts, you should now be able to fit a threaded plug into your oil gallery. Now all you have to do is repeat the process on each gallery plug, whether you chose to do only the four “essential” 3/8” plugs of all of them, the technique is the same.

But wait there’s more….

Had you forgotten the M12 tap? :? If you look at the picture of the rear of my case, you will see I have installed three 3/8” plugs. The third “optional” plug is the one on the fuel pump side. Do you have a case that has the mechanical fuel pump fitted (or had been fitted with one) if you do, you will see that the case is fitted with a long brass bush through which the fuel pump drive shaft passes. This bush (I will take some pics of a couple of bushes I have removed over the weekend) passes right through the oil gallery and effectively blanks of the rear of the gallery. This means that there is little or no oil pressure acting on the rear of that plug and consequently little chance of problems occurring there. Most builders recommend you leave that one as is.

If you decide to remove the plug, you will see two things: firstly, you can clearly see the where the brass bush passes through the oil gallery (nice). Secondly it is blocking the hole where you intended to install to threaded plug and there is insufficient depth to properly thread the hole (believe me +-2 threads is all your going to get and thats not enough, not so nice :x )

If you have already pulled the plug (as I did :oops: ) and tried to tap the little material you have to work with (like I did :oops: ) then at this stage you will throw your cases away (but I didn’t)

I reasoned that the problem was the brass bush. As I was not going to use the fuel pump at all the thing had become a huge liability, if I pushed it out I might be able to tap the 3/8” plug in further but all the bloody oil would shoot out of the oil gallery from the two holes left where the bush past the it.

MY solution (I’m quite proud of this one :hangloose: )

First I push out the brass bush (an ordinary pin punch and a hammer works fine, punch the bush out from the cam shaft side, I don’t know why but they seem to come out easier then if you punch the out from the fuel pump side)

Now you will see there is plenty of material to properly tap the thread for the 3/8” plug. However, you now have two new problems, the two holes left by the brass bush. This is where the M12 tap comes in, take your M12 tap, and tap into the case from both the camshaft side and the fuel pump side. Note do not tap all the way through, use the vernier to thread only about half way down each side, you want the grub screw to bite into the case before it pops out into the oil gallery or you will have screwed up :bn: !

Clean out your newly taped M12 threads with carb cleaner or the suchlike, apply a liberal amount of locktite to the treads and then tightly screw in the 12mm grub screws (if you are going to clean or hot tank the cases I would wait until that’s done and install all the plugs and grub screws at the same time). Job done

PS if you have a case that has no provision for a fuel pump (some are like this) all this is not necessary, go ahead, pull the factory plug, and continue as with all the other plugs

Oh, why bother if it’s not necessary? Well why not, but for me these are old engines which have seen hard use and often been neglected, I felt that I wanted to be sure that the engine was completely cleaned out with no pockets of sludge left behind. :D :)

Well that it, I hope I have helped in some small way. Now ask away…… I'm Ready :puterwork:

Cheers
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Re: Galley Plug instructions - Type 4 aero conversion

Post by ZeroAxe »

Please start a post on valve train geometry :wink:
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Re: Galley Plug instructions - Type 4 aero conversion

Post by T4Flyer »

Hi There Zero,

To set up your valve train properly is no quick/easy job, however if your prepared to spend quite a bit of time doing it properly it really pays off.... 8) :lol:

I do have an excellent article on setting up the valve train geometry, much better than anything I could write and written by a much better T4 builder/expert than me. :oops:

But as its written by someone else and I cant in all honesty post it here, sorry. :cry:

However, if you PM me I with you email address I will forward you a copy, I think that's OK and not get anyone in trouble.

Cheers.
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Re: Galley Plug instructions - Type 4 aero conversion

Post by ZeroAxe »

PM sent :wink: Thanks!!
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Re: Galley Plug instructions - Type 4 aero conversion

Post by AirPower »

Thanks T4Flyer. I think the petrol pump one is going to be left in on my case. It's great to hear from someone who already did what I still need to do.

I'm interested also in the oil pump - reading the 1st post I see you installed a spacer to line the pump up with the oil galley. If it's not too much trouble - PLEASE - put up a closeup pic of this spacer and pump installed. Is that a type 1 pump (30mm)?
The pump that doesn't line up - is that only a problem on your case, or is that something generic on all cases?

Thanks
Mario
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Re: Galley Plug instructions - Type 4 aero conversion

Post by Bugger »

Hi there and Welcome putting some nice man hours in to a decent Project keep it up

Wont mind getting a copy of the valve Geometry to compare some notes if you dont mind

Will send PM
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Re: Galley Plug instructions - Type 4 aero conversion

Post by T4Flyer »

H Airpower,

I am fitting a Schadek, 30mm Oil Pump (Type 1). I sourced the oil pump from “Aircooled.net” they supplied it already modified for use in the type 4. The cam came with the cam bolt heads already shaved down to help with clearance; however, the cam bolts still touch the oil pump and needed to be machined down some more to properly clear the oil pump.

I wanted to port the oil galleries a little to match the bigger ports of the Schadek oil pump but when you install the pump in a standard T4 case, you will see the oil pump ports do not line up centrally with the case ports. If you enlarge the case ports in that position you will find your ports quite a bit off centre and quite close to the edge of the case.

By installing a 2mm spacer, you solve both problems 1- The spacer provides the required cam bolt clearance, without needing to machine the bolt heads to thin. 2- The oil ports line up much better allowing you to port the case galleries, without getting so close to the inside edge of the case.

Note I have no cooling tin or bodywork in or around my engine. You may need to check the already longer pump, and an additional 2mm spacer does not foul anything.

An apology, I wanted to try to take some close up pictures of the oil plug gallery plug after threading and some others thus past weekend. However, life got in the way and left no time. :oops: I will try later.

Cheers.
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Re: Galley Plug instructions - Type 4 aero conversion

Post by Bugger »

When you bought your cam was the gear already fitted to the cam or not :?: it sounds that way

Reason for asking what about setting the split of the cam to you r motor when say on TDC the cam is 100% in spilt of raising and falling lobes , and are you not using the washers to advance and retar the cam coz this is also a benifit when spending the extra time in doing it.
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