67 Panelvan

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Tony Z
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Tony Z »

as much as I hate to admit it, I bought a fong kong starter from Midas on Voortrekker Road, near Libertas/Goodwood.
I use this in my bus and it is working so far without any issues at all.
My point? If you dont come right at Good Hope, then try midas


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Donovan D
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Donovan D »

Managed to get it sorted. Seems that I left out the part that was giving the issue.
Damn jumper leads. After the second battery leaked acid everywhere I did not put the new battery back in the kombi. I bridged the battery and battery terminals with jumper cables.
Took the starters to Sean on Sunday. Tested both starters and both did their thing. Also borrowed his heavy duty jumper leads as he said he is sure that is where my problem is.

I connected my jumpers straight onto the starter from the battery. The engine turned but very sluggish, not enough to get it going.
Got Seans jumper cables on and the engine turned with a lot more power. Connected everything back up and got the main terminals back on the battery and the kombi is back up and running. Even without the relay the kombi starts again first time. I did end up connecting the relay. Took the new starter back to Goeie Hoop.
So I have been chasing a problem the past couple of days and it ended up being jumper cables. :evil: :evil: :oops: :oops:

Tested the voltage and its showing anything from 12.9-14.5 at higher rpms. It does jump around a bit even thought the rpms are constant.
I also have a 0.04amp draw which is the radio and alarm system.

This still does not explain why the kombi would not start after the second battery let out its acid everywhere. The only thing that has changed after all this is the new bush in the gearbox and earth strap between gearbox and body.
---------- 67 Panelvan -----------
---------- 56 Oval ----------
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Tony Z
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Tony Z »

sounds like you were chasing your tail....
Glad its sorted now.
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Dawie »

Which type external voltage regulator do you have.
The old "vibrating relay" type, (big metal thingy),
Or a smaller later type?
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
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Donovan D
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Donovan D »

Dawie wrote:Which type external voltage regulator do you have.
The old "vibrating relay" type, (big metal thingy),
Or a smaller later type?
Yes its a big metal one, looks like this
b-reg.jpg
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---------- 67 Panelvan -----------
---------- 56 Oval ----------
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Dawie »

You could check that the brown d- wire on regulator comes directly from d- on alternator.

Inside regulator look if the contacts are clean, not burnt. If using sandpaper to clean use 1200 grit and clean wiping with a very clean cloth and compressed air. The slightest dirt left behind there will cause trouble.
Image
Especially look at the contact right side. If overvoltage, this one protects by shorting field winding via resistor to earth. Be very careful to not bend anything while cleaning.

If charging voltage is too high, in upper left corner of picture, look at the resting post where the spring-blade is sitting. On the upper part of coil. Very slightly bend that down a fracion of a fraction of a millimetre. Then re- test charging voltage. Stop engine and adjust further if neccessary. Repeating until charging voltage is right. The contacts on the right we leave alone, no bending there.

Below the regulator there is a "time dependent" thermistor. Each time car is started from cold, this boosts charging voltage for a minute until this thermistor is hot. To compensate for lost energy from starting. So keep this time delay in mind when measuring voltage.

I aim for 13.8V, with a max of 14V, to ensure long battery life.

There are also replacement electronic regulators available.

An automotive starting battery is not a deep cycle. (Many thin plates with large surface area.) Usually not meant to ever be drained to less than 85% capacity if you want long life. Only 6.75Ah avaliable for the immobiliser before we reach that.
A 45Ah battery fully charged, left with an immobiliser drawing 0.04A, will reach this in about a week.

My one car has an immobiliser... i disconnect the battery each time if car is standing for more than 24 hours.
The rest of my cars dont have immobilisers, their Deltec batteries can stay connected for many months without use, batteries stay at 12.6v

House alarm type batteries on constant charge i set to 13.1V max charge, and they live a long life that way.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
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Donovan D
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Donovan D »

Time for some winter maintenance.
The front end has sagged, which leads a couple of people to think I might have broken a leave.

Plan now is to remove the front end and check the leaves. Get the standard spindles back on and raise the rear end a bit to level it out.
While Im doing all this I also want to raise the area above the engine as its almost right against the fan housing.
Also considering making a firewall between tank and engine, any thoughts ? I do know the sides where the wheel arches are will still be open.
I was also considering getting seat belts in upfront.

Can anybody help out with the torque settings on the spring plate cover nuts and the axle to spring plate bolts ?
---------- 67 Panelvan -----------
---------- 56 Oval ----------
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Donovan D
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Donovan D »

Managed to get a lot done. Raising the rear is pretty easy. I was dreading doing this as I thought the drum would have to come off with the backing plate. Ended up raising the springplate with the drum still on the axle.

Started stripping the extra beam to get to the spindles.
Image


Getting the degrees right, the angle was at 9.8 degrees and the idea was going down one inner spline which is 9 degrees 6cm raise.
Image

Image

Rubbers still looked really good. Cleaned everything up inside and out.
Image

And broke a bolt while torquing it down, had to look for the old manual which said 72-87 ft-lb. The bolt snapped before 65. Luckily it was just the head so could turn it out easily.
Image

Got the wheel on which was a breeze compared to the struggle before to get it in the arch. I still need to do the other side but the kombi now is about 10cm higher. Hopefully once the engine is back in and its settled it will go down a bit more.
---------- 67 Panelvan -----------
---------- 56 Oval ----------
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Donovan D
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Donovan D »

Also found this in the garage, is this vw aircooled ?

Image

Image

Image
---------- 67 Panelvan -----------
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jolas
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by jolas »

Nice work Donovan, Killarney Car Show coming up again, October I think, when do you aim to be finished ?
by fig » Mar 26, 2018
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Edmond »

Hi Donovan

Those Spring Plate Bearing Cover Bolts should be tightened to 32lbs/ft or 45Nm, they are only M8 bolts if I remember right. The 72-87 lbs/ft figure is for the bolts joining the spring plate to the axle, its those big M12 bolts
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Dawie »

About this part you found:
Image
This is from a 411/412.
Connects between the type 4 engine's cooling fan intake and the ducting via a rubber bellows.
So a type 4 car is not as dependent on the engine seal because, like a type 3, cold air is ducted directly to the fan.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
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Donovan D
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Donovan D »

jolas wrote: Sat Jul 29, 2017 8:42 pm Nice work Donovan, Killarney Car Show coming up again, October I think, when do you aim to be finished ?
I hope I will be done before then.
Edmond wrote: Sat Jul 29, 2017 10:01 pm Those Spring Plate Bearing Cover Bolts should be tightened to 32lbs/ft or 45Nm, they are only M8 bolts if I remember right. The 72-87 lbs/ft figure is for the bolts joining the spring plate to the axle, its those big M12 bolts
This really does seem like a lot for those small bolts.
I tried searching the net and got a few different specs, from 25 lbs/ft to the 72-87 lbs/ft.
The section in the manual covers the springplate cover, torsion arms, rubber and springplates itself. So I was under impression those are the bolts referred to. Will check again tomorrow.
http://www.vw-resource.com/rearaxle.html - number 24 from this site also mentions 80lbs/ft.
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Edmond »

All depends on the bolt grade, had a look on the net now, a grade 12.9 bolt can be max torqued to 47Nm with dry threads so the vw resource website must be smoking something with their 80lbs/ft i see it there as well on the rear axle page. check this bolt torque chart
Image
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Tony Z
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Re: 67 Panelvan

Post by Tony Z »

You've done well D. And that angle finder looks like a good piece of kit, much better than the cheapy Kennedy one I have.
If that is a T4 boot and you dont need it, I might be interested.... let me know
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