1962 T1 resto cal project
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- Oil Pump
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
About a week ago i got to help out a cool fellow ACVWsa member with his S beetle, really stunning car. We removed the upper hinge pins because he wants to install the earlier style mirrors, all went well but didn't take any "after" pics. Awsome car Veemal!
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- Oil Pump
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
So now that Wolfie can steer, and the brakes were bled, my girls and i decided to push him outside for its first wash on sunday, had a blast....and its not even moving under its own power yet! I think the nose needs to go lower but that will be a project for later, the drop spindles are juuuust not low enough.
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- veemal
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
Hi Deo
The pictures don't do your 62 any justice , awesome vehicle ....
Its all in the details .
Thanks for the help once again.
Veemal.
The pictures don't do your 62 any justice , awesome vehicle ....
Its all in the details .
Thanks for the help once again.
Veemal.
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- Oil Pump
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
So now on to sorting out the last bits of the engine. Solid rocker shaft went on and took like what seems forever to get the side play just right, using swivel foot type adjusters made it neccessary for some more modifications, some material had to be removed on the under side of the rocker arms to get the geometry right and to allow for at least some outward adjustement.
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1962 T1 resto cal project
Then it took me about the whole morning to cut the chromoly pushrods to the right length on the lathe, man it some hard stuff that!!
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
All thats left is to squeeze the ends into the tubes, ..also, easier said than done!
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
You should just have shimmed the rocker base.
You don't have swivel feet adjusters but rather ball adjusters.
I have had issues with ball adjusters in the past as the ball work it's way loose, several times.
I prefer the Porsche type swivel feet from CB performance, never a problem.
Not to burst your bubble, if those are Empi ball adjusters its just a question of when rather than if..... they fail, fast.
For what it's worth, ignorance has no limits ......
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
Use a old cam follower to fit the new ends, easy.
For what it's worth, ignorance has no limits ......
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
The adjusters i have have served in a very hot 1776 for about 20 000km and they look as good as new, they were baught from CB years ago along with 1.25 rockers which they came off so i believe they have proved themselves. Shimming would not have worked as in my case it would've put the ball face very high up on the valve stem, almost on the very edge already, believe me i tried as it would've been a LOT less work.
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
Oh ja the tool, i have lying next to the pushrod there is specially made for the job, worls like a charm and there is no banging with a hammer required, simply slip the pushrod and pushrod end inside, secure one end in the vise and use my wrench to turn the tool so the end gets forced into the pushrod, no more. Split ends
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- Tony Z
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
Well done.
Getting the endplay on the solid rocker shafts can take a while. And rocker geometry / pushrod length can also be a PITA.
And people wonder why custom engines can take so long to build...
Getting the endplay on the solid rocker shafts can take a while. And rocker geometry / pushrod length can also be a PITA.
And people wonder why custom engines can take so long to build...
ANGRRR
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- fourier
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Re: 1962 T1 resto cal project
@62RestCal, the car is looking good. Getting close now!
I've also found it necessary to machine the bottoms off the rocker in the adjustment screw area, for the very same reason that you've stated.
Shimming the rocker blocks, causes the adjuster wipe pattern to move away from the rocker shaft, closer to the far edge of the valve stem, instead of wiping equal amounts either side of centre on the valve stem. Removing material like you have done, was the only way I could correct this problem. I normally use the CB Performance "elephant feet" adjusters, which require the same rocker machining. Without this machining, the adjusters will not swivel enough, and bind on the bottom of the rockers, when at the correct geometry.
I usually blue the valve stems when setting up valve geometry, just to check the adjuster wipe pattern on the valve stem. Correct valve geometry is essential to minimise valve guide wear, especially considering the spring pressures some of these performance camshafts require.
As Tony said... it all takes time!
I've also found it necessary to machine the bottoms off the rocker in the adjustment screw area, for the very same reason that you've stated.
Shimming the rocker blocks, causes the adjuster wipe pattern to move away from the rocker shaft, closer to the far edge of the valve stem, instead of wiping equal amounts either side of centre on the valve stem. Removing material like you have done, was the only way I could correct this problem. I normally use the CB Performance "elephant feet" adjusters, which require the same rocker machining. Without this machining, the adjusters will not swivel enough, and bind on the bottom of the rockers, when at the correct geometry.
I usually blue the valve stems when setting up valve geometry, just to check the adjuster wipe pattern on the valve stem. Correct valve geometry is essential to minimise valve guide wear, especially considering the spring pressures some of these performance camshafts require.
As Tony said... it all takes time!
(o= i =o) (o\ ! /o)