Aircooled VW South Africa

Your Voltage regulator looks like this




It is mounted off engine on the body and has a plug from the Alternator

.

Herman

Ok Guys so here we go no Voltage regulator or connection to the bulb
Does anybody know the part number for the regulator and where i can find one please
Then the wiring here we go







So not sure if you can make it out but that is essentially the alternator and the wiring that comes out of the alternator

It is going nowhere so will have to get it sorted but first voltage regulator then connections to see if this one is working unless there is some clever way of removing it and testing it without connecting it to the bulb or battery

HOWDY FREDDIE.

THOSE EXTERNAL REGULATORS CAN BE PROBLEMATIC. I HAVE HAD MY ALTERNATOR MODIFIED WITH A MODERN BOSCH REGULATOR FITTED INSIDE THE ALTERNATOR. IT COST A BIT BUT I THINK IT WAS WORTH IT.
TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTION WITH REGARDS TESTING TO SEE IF THE ALTERNATOR WORKS.....; IT CAN BE BENCH TESTED AT ANY AUTO ELECTRICIAN.
THE EXTERNAL REGULATOR IS NOWHERE NEAR THE ALTERNATOR SO IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR IT THERE YOU AIN'T GONNA FIND IT. IT IS NORMALLY MOUNTED IN THE TOP RIGHT HAND CORNER OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AGAINST THE FIREWALL.

Got my last one from Midas, was a Monark 082 601 006

The big red wire from the alternator goes to the battery, the 3 small wires from the alternator go to the regulator, as well as the wire from the dash charge light.

The alternator on a type 4 normally does not break, so get a regulator and wire it up and you should be OK

See wire ring diagram.

Herman

Thanks Mark an Retrovan will remove my alternator and have it tested first.

Then i found a gem or two (Lets just call it some more work for now )

Remember this Bus was fitted with a V6 Engine and one of the things i want to still do is fix the front dash or cluster



Two VDO Gauges for Oil Pressure and Oil Temp whoop whoop

I think this is the sender unit on the old V6 Motor which i will remove and see if it still good else will have to try and find one from a vdo agent



Reading another thread about VDO Gauges etc i found that it must be mounted on the Oil Pressure relief valve

as far as i understand there are two



Must i fit it on the one towards the pulley (1) or the one towards the flywheel (2)?

Fitted mine in the drain plug, as it reads the oil temp and no chance of upsetting the relief valve

Herman

Herman.

Just a question that will read oil temp will it also measure oil pressure?

Not that I really need it but I have the gauge and guessing that sensor that was on the f Ford engine measures both I think

Will not read pressure on the drain plug, only temp.

You may have to get a GeneBerg oil pump cover to fit a pressure sensor, not sure.

Herman

Thanks Herman

Hey Freddie, worry about some more important items than some silly gauges for now.
The oil pressure sender can just be installed where your old oil pressure sender for the dash light is.

The facet fuel pump will also not be your issue. I have several in use and they work 100%. What makes you believe the fuel pump is causing an issue?

Been reading another thread about on the forum about high pressure facet pump that is inconsistent and causing fuel to run down the manifold. High fuel consumption. Yeah not too worried about it at this stage but anyway asking to gain the knowledge and I need to later get it sorted.

Going toe start with some wiring tomorow and see how I go on just small things at this stage and definitely going to remove that alternator to get it bench checked and sorted. Then wire it up

Sean you know how it goes you tinker a bit here and then there add something nice take it off fix something else and before you know it all of it is done

Don’t bother removing alternator and having it tested. Why not just wire it up correctly with the voltage regulator? If you dash light goes off, it’s working fine. Nothing more to be done.

Thanks guys.

Ok so searched and opened the front cluster to get hold of the blue wire and lo and behold it was hanging down the middle not connected to the charge light.

Connected it to the charge light and traced it all the way to the back.

Extended the wires that was cut off on the alternator going to the voltage regulator and connected them using this diagram from volkzone



Ignored the black wire as per the site apparently for diagnostics not sure if this was my mistake

Switched ignition on charge light came on

Started the bus and .........

Charge Light dims when I rev the engine but stays on.

Measured voltage with and without a bit of revs and voltage fluctuates between 11.2 V and 11.9 V

Ok so out comes the alternator what a beast to get out almost forgot about the alternating cooling rubber that was holding it in place but here she is



Will take her in to get tested and find out what can be done to salvage what I have here.

Auto electrician have tested the unit and it throws 17v

With the regulator 13.5v

So my fault is not on the alternator or regulator.

Will refit when I have a moment and double check my earth.

Have bought some wire will wire this thing properly and test again and see maybe I have some other culprit somewhere that is causing me to loose power somewhere.

Well trial and error and test and test again.

Just a question that blue wire to the charge light in the cluster does it go straight to the bulb or the fuse box or somewhere maybe on the ignition first.

According to what I have read and understood it goes directly to the charge light.

Straight to the globe, no fuses.