Fuel injection rebuild

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Simmy
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Simmy »

Thanks Wentzel! Doing my best, and trying to not seem like too much of a newbie along the way!


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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Simmy »

Finished porting the inlets. Not going to win and porting prizes, but hey, it's definitely an improvement.
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fourier
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by fourier »

Good going with the build!

Are those CB Performance fuel injection end castings?
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Simmy »

I believe they are. I got them from Volkspares some years ago, but they don't have any identification marks on them. Don't know if anyone else makes similar end castings, but the casting and the fuel rails are visually identical to CB.
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Simmy »

Found some time to look at the heads in a little more detail and start assembling / testing the rocker assembly.

So far, I think the new heads look like they are really good quality. I really can't find much fault with them, but would appreciate any suggestions the readers might have.

There is some flashing from the casting process around the cooling fins. I have removed the worst of it, buts it's not that bad and probably won't make any really difference in the end.

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The surface finish in the chamber and ports is also a little rough. Not sure if that's a legit concern. My understanding is there should be no sharp edges in the combustion chamber, yet the edges at the machined surface are pretty obvious. Started just cleaning up around the plugs for now.

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Then the rockers. After a fair bit of disassembly and reassembly, I just about got one set's side clearance to about 0.005" which seems to be about right according to the internet. Its possible to feel the rockers shift slightly, so I want to reduce it a little more, but the shim packs combinations are limited.
Otherwise. The valves heads are level, and the rocker bearing surface is about as centred as the geometry will allow.

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So any suggestions in additional head prep? Also, is it advisable to use a large g-clamp and a suitable socket/fitting to remove the valves? I don't have a spring compressor, and that seemed like a reasonable alternative if it's don't straight and carefully.
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Tony Z
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Tony Z »

if you need more shims, pull them off an old set of stock shafts
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by fourier »

I would leave the casting flash alone, if it does not obstruct cooling passages through the head. Some will argue that it adds a little more surface area for cooling, but probably not significantly so.

Leave the surface area in the chambers and intake ports fairly rough, it promotes turbulence and better combustion.
You will definitely need to work on the machining ridges left around the valve seats. Those are sharp edges, which will promote hot spots and detonation, not to mention hurt gas flow. You can have two old valve heads machined down, and use them to protect the valve seats, when you blend the sharp edges into the chamber. Don't try blending without seat protection. It will cost you a valve seat repair.

For rocker side clearance, I normally shim to 0.003". It is amazing how much this reduces valve train noise.

You can use a G-clamp to remove valve springs, but the socket will make things difficult. You need something with a window in the side, to allow access to the valve keepers. Be careful not to damage the valve faces and combustion chamber with the G-clamp. Use some hard rubber insertion between the metal contact points.
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Simmy »

Thanks for the advice Tony.
I will hold off on further modifications until I have some dummy valves.

I was going to modify a cheap socket to cut out the window you are referring to. Will certainly use some sense rubber or a piece of wood to protect the valve head.
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Wentzel »

I used a G-clamp and welded a big washer with some spacers to use for valves. The valve spring compressor I had flexed and didn't work properly.
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Riaan.N »

IMG_8713.JPG
Would this work? Saw it on pinterest.


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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Simmy »

Thabks for the suggestion... I saw the same thing. Not sure if that would work as well on a VW cylinder head though... The g- clamp at least compresses it linearly, whilst some of those approaches have a lever that moves in an arc. I would think this will add additional side load as it tries to slide across the retainer and could stress or scratch the stem, retainer or guide.
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Simmy »

Happy Easter everyone!

Got caught up at work this week, so haven't been able to do or post much.

Managed to finish off the rocker assemblies and shim them to 0.003 as suggested. The trick was to lap the sides of the rockers to get them flat and adjust the clearances just a little to get the shimming spot on.

Also check the valved covers. Even with the swivel feet and the additional shims, the cover still fits. Still want to get them anodised black to improve thermal efficiency.

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Also got the valves out with the clamp and a modified 23mm socket (in one of the photos). Again, the heads need some work to blend some of the machining done at the factory. The worst of it is the sharp bend at the exhaust port.
Still need to source some flattened valves before I even think about the chamber's themselves.

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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Simmy »

Forgot to ask... Checking the spring rate? Useful and necessary or not? I have seen guys talk about it, but I do not really have the means to do so.
They are single HD springs from CB.
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by fourier »

Spring requirements will depend on your cam/rocker combination, and expected rev range.

If you are running a fairly wild cam, with fast ramps, high lift, and plan high revs, spring rate and shimming become more critical. More spring pressure will be required to have proper valve control, and dual springs become necessary. You can use springs with less pressure, if you decide to run light weight valve train components. Options are 56g tool steel lifters, and titanium retainers, but these parts come at a premium. Something you absolutely want to check, is distance before coil bind.

If your combination is fairly mild, things are far less critical, and I would not worry too much about your single HD springs, and measuring spring rate.
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Re: Fuel injection rebuild

Post by Simmy »

Quick update...

Crank in for its regrind, flywheel will be lightened to about 12lbs... balancing to follow.

Some before and after of the rework around the cable seats. Still need to lap the valves and then CC to make sure all are still equal.

Didn't like the amount of movement on the manifolds (kind of defies the point of match porting if you can't align them), so made up some sleeves from extra fuel line.

Also planned the fuel line layout properly and refitted the regulator behind the fan shroud. I am waiting for a quote on some FTF anodised fittings.... If it's reasonable then I want to go that way... Always liked the look of them and I hate leaky fittings.

Starting to wonder if the breather box is too small... It certainly is if I fit the tappet cover breathers. With the kids to the oil system, there will be increased flow to the heads and better breathing required. With the added heat transfer due to oil flow, Mr Hoover suggested an external cooler... Will think about that later though.

Also need to ask for some advice...
1) I have come to terms with replacing the oil pump. I think 26mm is the right size, but not sure about brands. I can get an EMPI or a Shadek variety. I am more inclined to the latter? Any experience with these? Or recommendations? I will still port it anyway...
2) I need to start thinking about getting assembly lube, plastiguage, sealant, thread locker, lapping compound. I found I can get some good stuff from WantitAll.com, but it's very pricey. I haven't been to the Autoquips yet, but I find they generally stock cheap rubbish.

Hoping to have the front end of the beetle sorted out over the weekend... Will post pics once the brake lines or fixed and the new master cylinder installed.
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