Aircooled VW South Africa

An engineer that tells U it won't work doesn't know alot about engine modification
remember most of the general engineers don't usually modify engines at all
so they have limited knowledge about modifications that can be done
but give him a block of steel and a drawing and he can machine U a new engine block without knowing what he is working on

The "Problem" with engineers is that they do not want to work on the "Fail" Edge, and in two different hardness substrates.

This is why I recommended to do the holes away from the edge with off center bolts.

To tell an engineer to drill and tap a hole on the edge of a soft metal casting, is like telling him to swing from his eye lids across the grand canyon.

A motor mechanic will just do it. no problem.

Good luck hope you come right.

Herman

Really loved your comparison!!

Machine shops today dont like doing custom work anymore. The money is in batch production.
The days of going to a machine shop with a handful of parts and getting them to modify them so they fit first time are long gone. If you find someone who can help, they'll probably get it wrong a few times first.
It is unfortunate.

Keep looking and you'll eventually find someone who will help.

I received the parts from Tony Z, thanks a lot Tony!!for the assistance and work to the heads.

Heads have been ported,singh grooves machined into the chambers. Ceramic coating done to piston tops and valves. I would have liked to do more but costs got a bit much. Manifolds have been matched to the heads and the ports are quite a bit bigger than the std heads.

Tony also set up the valve springs to go with my W120 cam. I chose to use titanium valve spring retainers for strength and weight. Pistons are 94mm mahle which will give me 2109cc with the 76mm wbx crank.

Thanks again Tony!

Glad you finally got the heads.

For a few pics, here is a comparison between stock bare 044's and Wentzels ported 044's










When it came to setting up the valve springs, I was asked to aim for 1.5mm from coilbind.
To do this I had to make up a jig to depress the valves straight down (not at an angle).
The first step was to measure the angle of the guide



BTW, the guide angle for these heads is shallower than stock, aiding their flow capabilities


Then start with some Aly and make a stand to hold the head













after that, its time to check the valve springs coil bind height and then measure the retainers and switch and swap retainers and springs until I had a set of 8 that measured as close to each other as possible.










assemble heads and add shims under the valve springs, then go ahead and measure the installed height and then compress to coil bind, making sure that the spring has 1.5mm more travel to coil bind than the calculated lift that the cam and rockers will provide.
In this case, full lift is 12.6mm, so I shimmed the valves to coilbind at 14.1mm.
Ok, exhaust valves I aimed for 1.8mm from coil bind








After that, I measured everything twice again to ensure all my readings were repeatable, which they were.

I hope these heads outperform your wildest expectations Wentzel!!
If nothing else, they are going to allow you to scare the crap out of yourself once you get the turbo running...

I'm sure they will looks like a lot of work for the setup.

These heads are roughly capable of making the hp I had with the turbo bit without the turbo. Adding a suitable turbo the the new engine should be capable of a lot more with less effort.

Time for an update. Got the engine casing back today and did a test fit of the head and sleeves on the 2.1 casing.

Fits ok but I am not happy with some inserts and will try to improve things.

Looks like it will work out nicely.

coming along nicely.

Managed to sort out the inserts and a quick trail fit of the heads with all studs installed.

It still some work to do but there is some progress.

Hi Wentzel, what are the reasons/benefits of ceramic coating the piston tops and valves?


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less heat transfer into the item that is coated - cooler valves and cooler pistons

Thanks Tony. So some of the heat that would normally have been transferred to the ceramic coated parts now gets transferred to other parts and some of it remains in the gasses thats goes to/through the exhaust?

Would it then also mean that heat that does get transferred to the coated parts would be more difficult to get rid off?


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I suppose you could say that it "reflects" the heat. Some will still get absorbed, while some will make more power and the rest will go out the exhaust. It doesnt make a big difference to the engine or combustion, but it makes a difference to the coated part. It also helps to ward off detonation if your engine is running on that ragged edge.

Cooling depends on the part. There is still heating and cooling through the coating but less of it. It will however settle at a lower temperature. On the piston, you still have oil cooling from behind and cooling through the rings. The valve still has seat cooling and cooling through the stem.
Remember also, if the intake charge cools the parts, then the air temp prior to combustion goes up. This in turn increases the exhaust temp and combustion temp which in turn heats the parts more. So ceramic coating reduces this and thus keeps the temps which heat the parts lower, so they remain cooler.