Engine advice

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retrovan
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Re: Engine advice

Post by retrovan »

Vintage man wrote: Wed May 10, 2017 6:57 pm Yip according to Google and my counting ribs incorrectly it's a 6 rib , I'm sorry but very raw at this appreciate you guys bearing with me. So how is a 6 rib and a 17000
Will be fine, but you MUST reduce tyre size.

Will find you a tyre comparison chart to work out which tyre will work best.

Will edit this post when I find it. (here you go) https://tiresize.com/calculator/

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Re: Engine advice

Post by Vintage man »

Still on engine advice,how much of a problem is it if the top fin of a barrel is broken ,the fin closest to the head.
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Re: Engine advice

Post by fig »

Vintage man wrote: Thu May 18, 2017 4:54 pm Still on engine advice,how much of a problem is it if the top fin of a barrel is broken ,the fin closest to the head.
Don't worry, it's not a fatal injury.

Obviously it has a small effect on cooling efficiency, but you're unlikely to be able to measure the effect unless most of the fins are broken.
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Re: Engine advice

Post by Vintage man »

Thanks all ,still learning and enjoying.
Retrovan the 1700 is only till I get my 2l sorted will it damage anything if I don't change the tyre size.
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Re: Engine advice

Post by Dawie »

If we "over- simplify" our thoughts, we may think that the fan will turn slower, causing reduced cooling.

But also remember that the smaller 1700 will pump less fuel/air mixture than the 2L, generating less torque and less waste heat. While still having the same large cooling fin surface area, large oil cooler, and same type 4 fan which pumps more cooling air than a type 1 fan at similar engine rpm's as per VW's specs.

It will be slower in 4th gear. If you load your kombi with 800kg it will be more difficult to pull away in 1st on a steep uphill.

6-Rib box compared to 1600 3-rib has around 15% taller gearing 1st to 3rd gears, but only 8% taller overall gearing in 4th. 1700 Has around 7% more torque than 1600.

At JHB altitude there is 17% loss of performance because of thinner air.

Always critically important to have a well sealed engine compartment to prevent recycling of hot used air back into cooling fan's intake. In my humble opinion more important than small differences in gearing.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
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Re: Engine advice

Post by sean »

Hi Vintage man

There is a much simpler solution to all of this. All you need to do is change the bellhousings and input shaft between the 3 and 6 rib gearboxes. No hauling out angle grinders and swapping tyres etc.

Fit the bigger 2L bellhousing and longer input shaft onto the 3 rib box, that's it. Then you will have a gearbox that has the top hanging mounts and the lower 1600 ratio. FYI, a 1600 motor works fine on a 2L bellhouing. It is just critical to make sure, you have a 2L bellhousing, longer 2L input shaft and 2L starter motor with longer bendix.

I personally though would rebuild the 2L motor which has substantially more power compared to the 1600.

Cheers
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Re: Engine advice

Post by Vintage man »

Hi Sean

Thanks for the feed back ,yip my 2L is at the engineers at the moment but will take some time,my ass is burning to drive around in the kombi ,maybe i must be a bit more patient ,my son is doing an awsome job with the interior ,we have been taking pictures and will do a bit of a build story soon.
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Re: Engine advice

Post by Vintage man »

Ok got the 3 rib gearbox in my bus ,motor ready to go in.I you you fit a 2l to a 3 rib what would it be like.
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Re: Engine advice

Post by sean »

Vintage man wrote: Tue May 30, 2017 12:46 pm Ok got the 3 rib gearbox in my bus ,motor ready to go in.I you you fit a 2l to a 3 rib what would it be like.
Again, make sure what bellhousing is fitted to your 3 rib gearbox now?

As the 3 rib gearbox has lower ratios than the 6 rib, it will give the bus more pulling power with the 2L motor, but with higher rpm at a given speed. For any normal conditions, the combination works fine.
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Re: Engine advice

Post by Vintage man »

Hi Sean

Bellhousing fine ,this weekend motor in.
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Re: Engine advice

Post by retrovan »

Couple of things to remember and to look out for before fitting engine.

Is the spigot shaft correct length for your box so that the shaft will enter the needle rollers in the flywheel.

Is the starter bush in the bell housing still usable or is it oval.

Have you got the correct starter to fit or must you make a 10mm spacers (cut the old front plated off a broken starter and cut to 10 mm thick)

These will effect your bus, best address them before driving off.

Herman
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Re: Engine advice

Post by Vintage man »

thanks for the education guys.
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Re: Engine advice

Post by Vintage man »

Afternoon ,1700 engine in and 3 fin box however not started yet,noticed that both cooling flaps have been taken out .Will it be ok .
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Re: Engine advice

Post by sean »

Vintage man wrote: Sat Jun 03, 2017 4:46 pm Afternoon ,1700 engine in and 3 fin box however not started yet,noticed that both cooling flaps have been taken out .Will it be ok .
It will not be ok. Your left one is very important as it guides/directs air to you oil cooler. Without it, air will simply blow past the cooler.
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Re: Engine advice

Post by Vintage man »

Thanks Sean ,so left one in and in the open position and right one ok to be left out.
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