Yes, it is possible, but remember the radius of the bends between the silencers differ. You must ensure it is a tight fit over the replacement silencer. Should it not be, a poor working heater will be your least worries. That leaking air is from you engine fan, if the motor has insufficient heat = hot running motor that wont last.....No More Landy wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2017 1:56 pmI bought a scrap exhaust for almost nothing just to get the two heater connections as per picture attached. As they are merely assembled with fold-over tabs, can I not just transfer to the copy exhaust that don't have them but only cost R1,300 odd ?sean wrote:If you really want the heater to work, then you must buy the more expensive silencer with the additional heater chambers.
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Beetle Engine Seal and Heater Plates (1971)
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Re: Beetle Engine Seal and Heater Plates (1971)
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Re: Beetle Engine Seal and Heater Plates (1971)
Thanks Sean. I did note the fit around the original exhaust pipes was neat but not a perfect fit. Will the copy not be the same due to the inlet port for the cylinder head having to line up though ?sean wrote:Yes, it is possible, but remember the radius of the bends between the silencers differ. You must ensure it is a tight fit over the replacement silencer. Should it not be, a poor working heater will be your least worries. That leaking air is from you engine fan, if the motor has insufficient heat = hot running motor that wont last.....No More Landy wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2017 1:56 pmI bought a scrap exhaust for almost nothing just to get the two heater connections as per picture attached. As they are merely assembled with fold-over tabs, can I not just transfer to the copy exhaust that don't have them but only cost R1,300 odd ?sean wrote:If you really want the heater to work, then you must buy the more expensive silencer with the additional heater chambers.
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Re: Beetle Engine Seal and Heater Plates (1971)
Fitted new seals in the engine bay so long. My son and I struggled quite a while and eventually found the best was lots of Silicone spray on the rubber and using a vice grip on the end to pull it through.
The last piece we just popped in with a screwdriver.
The last piece we just popped in with a screwdriver.
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Re: Beetle Engine Seal and Heater Plates (1971)
I'm not sure what silicone spray does to rubber, but I use rubber grease for rubber lubrication. It is especially helpful in windscreen rubber installation.
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Re: Beetle Engine Seal and Heater Plates (1971)
I managed to fit both of the headers on the new exhaust and did a quick trial with the heater boxes fitted loosely and it seems to line up ok. Once the flanges are lined up on the heads will be the proof in the pudding.
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Re: Beetle Engine Seal and Heater Plates (1971)
I do have red rubber grease but thought it would end up attracting dust and grime in the long run, but was my plan B if I didn't get it fitted.73type2 wrote:I'm not sure what silicone spray does to rubber, but I use rubber grease for rubber lubrication. It is especially helpful in windscreen rubber installation.
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Re: Beetle Engine Seal and Heater Plates (1971)
Anyone have a spare rubber that goes on the heater box end that joins to pipe between body and heater box. Have tried all rubber suppliers and second hand beetle part guys in Cape Town already.
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Re: Beetle Engine Seal and Heater Plates (1971)
One question I have:
I had to grind the little sheet metal heater box headers that go around the exhaust elbows that exit the rear of the cylinder head as once the engine was all together as the angle did not allow alignment with the heater box entry point.
Now I have slight gaps between headers and the exhaust elbow to fill to prevent losing airflow to the heater boxes.
Should I use a heat resistant caulking product which would make a perfect seal if one can get such a high temperature product - maybe some type of SIKAFlex ?
or should I use exhaust tape right over the box and the exhaust pipe to close the gap, or will the air escape through the tape ?
Some advise welcome.
Thanks
I had to grind the little sheet metal heater box headers that go around the exhaust elbows that exit the rear of the cylinder head as once the engine was all together as the angle did not allow alignment with the heater box entry point.
Now I have slight gaps between headers and the exhaust elbow to fill to prevent losing airflow to the heater boxes.
Should I use a heat resistant caulking product which would make a perfect seal if one can get such a high temperature product - maybe some type of SIKAFlex ?
or should I use exhaust tape right over the box and the exhaust pipe to close the gap, or will the air escape through the tape ?
Some advise welcome.
Thanks
1971 Beetle
2021 Polo tsi
2006 Defender Kalahari
2021 Polo tsi
2006 Defender Kalahari