timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
- marcw
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
OK, so how do I tell if it too rich or too lean at full open?
I have struggled with jets before with very little success.
I have struggled with jets before with very little success.
- marcw
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
Quick update - she has survived nearly a full week so far.
Looking good, still holding thumbs though.
Marc
Looking good, still holding thumbs though.
Marc
- sean
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
You would need an exhaust gas analyzer. Either the bus must be put on the dyno or get one with a very long extension that can be driven with it in the cab to check the mixture. Start with also just listening by ear at each carb at different rpm's, if you hear very slight popping sounds from inside the carb, this is often the first signs of a lean mixture.
- marcw
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
From what I understand
Lean is very bad
Slightly lean is bad
Rich is bad
Slightly rich is OK
Spot on is perfect
I have been looking for a gas analyser. All I can find is 30K + ones. Any idea where I may purchase a reasonable prices small DIY analyser?
Lean is very bad
Slightly lean is bad
Rich is bad
Slightly rich is OK
Spot on is perfect
I have been looking for a gas analyser. All I can find is 30K + ones. Any idea where I may purchase a reasonable prices small DIY analyser?
- Tony Z
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
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- marcw
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
After this all I need is an hydrolic lift and I will have a full, fix any problem, garage.
- retrovan
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
The "OLD TOPPIES" never had these things, but got it done.
Run the car a 50km trip, remove the plugs and they will tell you what you need to know.
Normally jetting will not change once run in an engine, unless dirty.
So the problem can only be
1) Un-balanced side to side
2) Sucking air on seals between head and manifold, or manifold and carb.
3) Sucking air via bad bushes on butterfly's
4) Bad or blocked shut-off electric solenoid
5) Float to high, too low, or its got a hole in it.
Good Luck
Herman
Run the car a 50km trip, remove the plugs and they will tell you what you need to know.
Normally jetting will not change once run in an engine, unless dirty.
So the problem can only be
1) Un-balanced side to side
2) Sucking air on seals between head and manifold, or manifold and carb.
3) Sucking air via bad bushes on butterfly's
4) Bad or blocked shut-off electric solenoid
5) Float to high, too low, or its got a hole in it.
Good Luck
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
- marcw
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
Well an update on Bella. She has been very well behaved. All is going OK. Not perfect as she is using 15l/100 km it that should drop a bit with better set carbs next month.
It was in the end the condenser. Three bad ones in a row to I got it right.
Marc
It was in the end the condenser. Three bad ones in a row to I got it right.
Marc
- marcw
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
The amount of effort to go through to figure out its a dud condenser 3 times in a row was just silly.
- retrovan
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
While the bus is running fine, take an old condenser and coil, and fit them to see they work fine, normally the most dented condenser is one that works fine and will keep working.
Now you mark them as "emergency stock" and this will be your test units next time you have a problem, and these you put into the "emergency Box", some where in the car.
Never leave them fitted in the car when used, always put them back on your return and replacement with new.
Have done this for years, and never been caught out in a time of need.
Hope this helps
Herman
Now you mark them as "emergency stock" and this will be your test units next time you have a problem, and these you put into the "emergency Box", some where in the car.
Never leave them fitted in the car when used, always put them back on your return and replacement with new.
Have done this for years, and never been caught out in a time of need.
Hope this helps
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
In the 80s at technical college in Pmb we collected 1000 used condensers from service stations and tested them. We found 2 faulty.
Nowadays is a different story
Nowadays is a different story
- marcw
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
I did also replace the distributor drive gear and that seemed to remove the 'ting' in the distributor area. And Herman yes I have only one - the most dinged - that works in the car. With both the new and my very old condenser in the car the timing is stable but with all the others it jumps around to varying degrees.
I am going to try the electronic points again since they were also jumping and do not have a condenser. Apparently the Bosch (Brazilian blue sticker) is too strong for the electronic setup and may have been the problem there.
I think in the end that with all the changes and now with the ignition being completely new I have eliminated all the play in places where play is bad so have a decent ignition system. (I have not tried the old distributor in the car again to check it. Not going there again since it works now. Although I probably should to 'know' if that was part of the problem.)
Marc
I am going to try the electronic points again since they were also jumping and do not have a condenser. Apparently the Bosch (Brazilian blue sticker) is too strong for the electronic setup and may have been the problem there.
I think in the end that with all the changes and now with the ignition being completely new I have eliminated all the play in places where play is bad so have a decent ignition system. (I have not tried the old distributor in the car again to check it. Not going there again since it works now. Although I probably should to 'know' if that was part of the problem.)
Marc
- retrovan
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Re: timing jumping = impossible to set (type 4)
I think you should too, as once you know it works, you will have an emergency back up, if you do not use it.
Just a tip, if the electronic system is a Golf one, make sure you use the Golf coil, or you will have endless problems.
I have found that the original Dizzy, is the best for my twin carb cars, as the electronic systems where not designed for the aircooled, so if you can not program the system, I believe you better off with the original dizzy.
OMO
Herman
Just a tip, if the electronic system is a Golf one, make sure you use the Golf coil, or you will have endless problems.
I have found that the original Dizzy, is the best for my twin carb cars, as the electronic systems where not designed for the aircooled, so if you can not program the system, I believe you better off with the original dizzy.
OMO
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc