Clutch Judder

[No More Landy]

Hi Guys

My daughter complained of her clutch juddering after having her bug for the last month or so.

I just want to know where to start looking.

Some work I did to her so far that may or may not have contributed:
Changed the Flywheel/Crank seal and O-ring.
Changed Engine/gearbox mounts.
Re-greased the needle roller bearing in the flywheel but but did not check the play between spline end and bearing.
Refitted clutch and pressure plate after noting clutch surface still good and finger springs seemed good.
Did not torque pressure plate bolts, just made them very tight as tight as they were to loosen.

The free play in the clutch pedal is a lot more than it was when I gave her the beetle. (about 30 to 40 mm now)

Where should I start as it worked fine for the last few months since refitting the engine.

[fig]

Sounds like the clutch cable has worn through the bowden tube at the back. Check the condition and the bow on the bowden tube.

[marcw]

Not sure on the beetle, but on my Kombi there is a Bowden Tube where the clutch cable ends and joins the gearbox pull mechanism. This tube adds some friction to the cable movement which stops the shudder. Look for a half circle flexible tube at the end of the cable and good what the arch diameter should be. On my Kombi it is 2.5 centimeters.

If you get this wrong you will feel some major shudder in 1st. It does make the clutch harder, but that is how it is supposed to be.

Marc

[No More Landy]

Sounds like the clutch cable has worn through the bowden tube at the back. Check the condition and the bow on the bowden tube.

This look ok ?

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[No More Landy]

Not sure on the beetle, but on my Kombi there is a Bowden Tube where the clutch cable ends and joins the gearbox pull mechanism. This tube adds some friction to the cable movement which stops the shudder. Look for a half circle flexible tube at the end of the cable and good what the arch diameter should be. On my Kombi it is 2.5 centimeters.

If you get this wrong you will feel some major shudder in 1st. It does make the clutch harder, but that is how it is supposed to be.

Marc

Clutch pedal does depress much easier than before now that you mention it.

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[fig]

It looks OK, but best to remove and inspect. Judder can also be a warped clutch plate or pressure plate, also bad transmission mounts.

[No More Landy]

Just strange that happened so suddenly

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[retrovan]

Just strange that happened so suddenly

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Just one strained pull-away could split an old rubber mount.

Herman

[No More Landy]

The engine mounts I renewed but will check out the front gearbox mount and strip the cable and tube and see what it all looks like

[No More Landy]

Gearbox mount still good as new.
Wimgnut on cable is just not moving over the old thread despite much swearing and lube. Do I cut my losses and saw through the cable ?

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[retrovan]

Spray with Q20 or WD40, and leave for a few hours, then use a vice grip on the cable side sleeve, and a spanner across the two ears of the wing nut.

Will go, if need be, use a tyre lever to remove tension on the clutch arm, but then you need 3 arms and hands....

Herman

[No More Landy]

Was trying with a plier on the wingnut but bent one of the ears.

Will try tomorrow again with an open spanner and leave the lube overnight

[No More Landy]

Much easier

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[Terry Phillips]

oil on the clutch.

[No More Landy]

No. Just impossible to remove wing nut without engine out of the way. Still using extreme force to back off the wingnut

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