Over charging
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Over charging
Fitted a Bosch voltage regulator for my generator on a 1600 motor noticed with my volt meter it climbed up to 30 volts then switched off. Is the regulator faulty or is there something I missed. Wiring is correct.
- retrovan
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Re: Over charging
It all depends where you tested.
The genny can go up to 30 Volts, before it gets to the regulator, but the output of the regulator should not go more then 14-15 volts
Herman
The genny can go up to 30 Volts, before it gets to the regulator, but the output of the regulator should not go more then 14-15 volts
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
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1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
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Re: Over charging
Remember:
1) You must have the right regulator for your generator.
2) Wiring must be correct,
3) Battery is also part of charging system, (it is the "damper" or accumulator). So a dead/ open circuit battery...(dead cell or loose connections inside, or sulphated, not taking the charge), will certainly cause issues. Most older regulators simply pulses the generator on and off max output at varying pulse width. If battery is totally dead or disconnected, these pulses will reach over 30V if generator, or even 80v if alternator at max rpm if charge system does'nt see the battery. (Byebye electrics across the system- fuel injection, elec ignition, radio, globes, or diodes inside if alternator).
This also explains why one should never, ever, disconnect a battery while engine is running. (You "might" get away if engine is only at slow idle, but i would'nt take that chance).
4)In the unlikely event that the mechanical regulator (relay type in big metal box) is faulty, it might be a burnt contact inside. But dont fiddle inside unless you have eliminated all other possible causes).
The "vibrating field-regulating relay" should disconnect field current when exceeding charge voltage. If overvoltage, relay's contact moves even further and shorts out across field windings to protect system.
1) You must have the right regulator for your generator.
2) Wiring must be correct,
3) Battery is also part of charging system, (it is the "damper" or accumulator). So a dead/ open circuit battery...(dead cell or loose connections inside, or sulphated, not taking the charge), will certainly cause issues. Most older regulators simply pulses the generator on and off max output at varying pulse width. If battery is totally dead or disconnected, these pulses will reach over 30V if generator, or even 80v if alternator at max rpm if charge system does'nt see the battery. (Byebye electrics across the system- fuel injection, elec ignition, radio, globes, or diodes inside if alternator).
This also explains why one should never, ever, disconnect a battery while engine is running. (You "might" get away if engine is only at slow idle, but i would'nt take that chance).
4)In the unlikely event that the mechanical regulator (relay type in big metal box) is faulty, it might be a burnt contact inside. But dont fiddle inside unless you have eliminated all other possible causes).
The "vibrating field-regulating relay" should disconnect field current when exceeding charge voltage. If overvoltage, relay's contact moves even further and shorts out across field windings to protect system.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
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