Building the perfect Type 1 motor

[calooker]

Before you thow your money at anything, keep the following in mind:
Buy the best you can afford make up your mind and stick with it, and most important, fast, reliable, cheap, you can only have 2, remember that.
I would rather worry about oil filtration before I worry about additional oil cooling. Oil filtration is the most important addition you can make, and that includes a stock rebuild.
Hope this 's
BTW my view of the perfect motor would be a 1835cc with thick walled cylinders, (same thickness of a 1500cc sleeve) single port heads, CW crank, single twin choke carb, with heating, oil filtration, doghouse cooling, Engle 100 cam everything else stock, 5400 rev max.

[dubster]

Ah you see richard now you have some of the experienced engine builder strating to chrip in here so read carefully what they say...rui would dual 36 webers work wel with your motor combination?he already has a set...

[dubster]

Why single port heads?just asking want to learn aswell...

[Junior]

Cheep is out of the equation cause I have such a long time to do this build so Im going to be buying good quality things but slowly till I have every thing I want and need. Im very interested in why you would go single port? Ya im still deciding on what parts I'm going to get but once I have got my lis on paper thats when its NOT GOING TO CHANGE so for now this is all just helping me decided whats going to go on the paper and whats not. Ya the 1835cc is looking good its in the middle of what we were talking about and as you say its got the thicker walls. Would you say that I should not use my 36mm IDF weber carbs?

[dubster]

O i still wanted to say if it is possible to get another casing or donor motor it allowa you to still have your bug running while you build the other motor in your own time it will help keep that urge to get the big motor done out of the way...

[Junior]

how much should I pay for a as-41 block and is it worth it?

[dubster]

Sho i have no idea..but i think edmond said that he paid 750 for a casing with full flow oil already done?i might be wrong just read through his thread i think he mentioned it somwhere,he got it from dave rowley in cape town...

[dubster]

I just went to go check my facts he paid 750 for the line bored casing and 140 odd rand for the full flow machining...

[Junior]

I think I'm going to do the same my parents are going through to Cape town at the end of November maybe I can beg them to Pick it up from Dave R

[Tony Z]

If you are limited to the stock valves and 36IDFs, and you definitely want revs, then consider a 1776. You wont get any more or any less power than the 1915, but you will be able to rev slightly higher and the power will max higher in the rpm range too.''

What are the pros and cons with going 1776?
What are the pros and cons with going 1915?

Pros: both are relatively cheap
cons: neither are a 2276

do some reading and you can figure this one out yourself

[Junior]

I thought that the bigger you go the better but dont your walls start to get a bit thin?

[Junior]

Are you saying get bigger carbs, bigger valves, bigger pistons and sleeves and get a wide stroke crank? Lol I'm confused

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... C-C10-5172

[dubster]

It al depends on the application its used in,in a bug the load is less meaning less work for it to do ,work=heat,thats why we recomended a 90.5mm in the other thread as it has bigger fin surface area for keeping cooling while hauling the heavy WORKING bus around,as compared to 94mm which woul work beter in the lighter bug,and no the walls are not thiner,only in thin wall 92mm and slip in 88mm pots the 92mm are bored out 90.5 pots hence the thiner walls and the slip in 88mm fit into the stock casing so in ecence bored to the max 85.5mm stock pots...the rest have been cast bigger and thicker and thats why they now cast 92mm thicker for the guys that want a 1835cc motor but without the overheating and sleeve warping problems...

[calooker]

It goes more like this, the bigger you go the thinner your wallet gets
I say stock single port heads, as they are less prone to cracking even when overheated time and again, never ever seen a single port head drop seats.
There are heads on the market nowdays that overcome this by having more meat around the spark plug and use a long reach thin (motorcycle) plugs. These heads are pricey.
To run twin carbs then a set of these fancy heads would be the ones to use, I'm just thinking reliable & cheap when I say single port, when using the fancy twin ports then it's reliable, a little faster, but not cheap, do you get it?

[dubster]

Thats why is said start at a point you get confused very quickly...first stick to just geting the stuff you want for your short block...