Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
- mhsmuts
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Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
Hi guys, do any of you have experience in converting the twin carbs on a type2/4 motor to a single carb?
Does it add value, what does it cost and is it easy enough to do?
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Does it add value, what does it cost and is it easy enough to do?
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- retrovan
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
If I may ask, why would you want to do this.??
Is your carbs not working, or can you not get them balanced.??
There is a number of guys here that can help with info should you need it.
You may find you would need to fit a box over your engine cover to hide this single carb.
Or you would have to make an exorbitant manifold system to have the carb below the engine lid.
But always wiling to help, give us more info, and we will offer suggestions.
Herman
Is your carbs not working, or can you not get them balanced.??
There is a number of guys here that can help with info should you need it.
You may find you would need to fit a box over your engine cover to hide this single carb.
Or you would have to make an exorbitant manifold system to have the carb below the engine lid.
But always wiling to help, give us more info, and we will offer suggestions.
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
Once saw a type 4 variant with vertical box-effort stuck on top of hole cut into middle of engine lid. Underneath was single carb conversion + aircleaner, sticking up like a sore thumb into rear luggage compartment.
Do you plan to add manifold heating like the factory did on their single carb version of type127 industrial engine?
Do you plan to add manifold heating like the factory did on their single carb version of type127 industrial engine?
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
Factory had two versions of type 4 (type 127) industrial engine. The low power version was single carb and higher performance had twin carbs.
Downgrading to singlecarb would destroy the value of a typ4 variant (in my humble opinion).
Downgrading to singlecarb would destroy the value of a typ4 variant (in my humble opinion).
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
- mhsmuts
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
I have been warned that I have a challenge coming to get the two carbs set and that a single carb conversion is better. I got mine to start without exhaust but have since spent effort sorting out other work on it. (E.g. fitted an Empi exhaust, electronic ignition etc) The advice has raised some caution so I thought id investigate it in the mean time.retrovan wrote:If I may ask, why would you want to do this.??
Is your carbs not working, or can you not get them balanced.??
There is a number of guys here that can help with info should you need it.
You may find you would need to fit a box over your engine cover to hide this single carb.
Or you would have to make an exorbitant manifold system to have the carb below the engine lid.
But always wiling to help, give us more info, and we will offer suggestions.
Herman
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- mhsmuts
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
I see what you are saying Dawie. Although setting will be simplified, the sacrifices for physical fitment and performance doesnt make senseDawie wrote:Once saw a type 4 variant with vertical box-effort stuck on top of hole cut into middle of engine lid. Underneath was single carb conversion + aircleaner, sticking up like a sore thumb into rear luggage compartment.
Do you plan to add manifold heating like the factory did on their single carb version of type127 industrial engine?
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
34PDSIT carbs from a type 4 car are not the same as the kombi versions of the same carb. Car versions are simpler/ less complicated to set up. Those 411/412 carbs were spared the emission-required "third carb" afterthought system which became part of left kombi-carb.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
- sean
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
Why on earth do you want to do this?
You would have to butcher your car to make it work, not to mention the extra noise levels, loss of boot space and fumes entering the cabin.
Oh yes, less power as well.
- mhsmuts
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
I don't want to do it, I was asking as some have recommended it. Had no intention to spend money to modify something that would be worse off - hence my questionsean wrote:Why on earth do you want to do this?
You would have to butcher your car to make it work, not to mention the extra noise levels, loss of boot space and fumes entering the cabin.
Oh yes, less power as well.
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- Tony Z
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
this Is likely what others have spoken about. It works ok in a kombi but it isn’t great. It is simple though.
There are some low profile manifolds that you can get to help either Weber ict’s or idf’s fit below the engine cover, but I think you also need special air filters too. Check out csp and Dellorto.co.uk
There are some low profile manifolds that you can get to help either Weber ict’s or idf’s fit below the engine cover, but I think you also need special air filters too. Check out csp and Dellorto.co.uk
ANGRRR
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=14775
1302S
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=33521
Panel Van
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?p=288723
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=14775
1302S
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=33521
Panel Van
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?p=288723
vader wrote: The Force is strong with you young Sith Lord Z!
- retrovan
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
Twin carbs are not that hard to set,
Every body is scared of the boggy man but no one has seen him, the same for the carbs,
The guys do not do their homework, and fiddle not knowing what they do, and then happens.
Start systematically, with the cleaning of the carbs, one at a time, and then follow the correct way to set them.
They have run the car perfectly for the last 40 years, I am sure you will get them to work another 40.
The forum will assist you when you get to that point, I am sure.
And if all else fails, you can fit a set of WEBER 34ICT carbs they work a treat.
good luck with your project,
enjoy
Herman
Every body is scared of the boggy man but no one has seen him, the same for the carbs,
The guys do not do their homework, and fiddle not knowing what they do, and then happens.
Start systematically, with the cleaning of the carbs, one at a time, and then follow the correct way to set them.
They have run the car perfectly for the last 40 years, I am sure you will get them to work another 40.
The forum will assist you when you get to that point, I am sure.
And if all else fails, you can fit a set of WEBER 34ICT carbs they work a treat.
good luck with your project,
enjoy
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
How the 411/412 carbs differ from kombi versions:
Left hand carb. All we have to do is use plain common sense. Adjust each side to be mechanically identical.
As in:
Throttle- stop screws: exactly identical degrees from closed. (If we want higher idle speed, adjust each side by say 25 degrees extra. So both sides always operate at the same amount of turns and degrees. (Use plain common sense to avoid choke system's idle cam from interfering with adjustment, like leaving ign on for short while to disable choke).
Idle mixture: Most 412 carbs, like type 3 carbs, have a little black "wheel" on idle screw. (Below idle cutoff valve in picture). There is a raised part. Like braille. So it can easily be adjusted by hand, and position can easily be felt even by a blind person. Also keep adjustment identical turns/degrees each side. I adjust mixture for highest idle speed when at operating temp. Then turn each screw in slightly, (richer), for a minor, barely noticeable, lower idle speed. This is to compensate for when engine is cold. Might need minor touch-up when very cold. Always keep both sides identical turns/degrees. (Kombi carbs have recessed screws).
Linkage... easy. Also adjust so that both carbs open at exactly the same time.
There is one MAJOR issue. Many/most people get confused between direction when turning screws. So they mess up the settings, sometimes without realizing.
In early days i tried syncronize by flow meter, but with these single-throat per side Solex carbs i get excellent results when simply keeping all adjustments "mechanically identical". And once adjusted, they stay that way.
The cold-idle cams (behind choke element), helps to slightly raise idle speed for first few minutes if engine is cold. (Hopefully they have not been fiddled with before). Adjustment, again, is plain common sense.
Left hand carb. All we have to do is use plain common sense. Adjust each side to be mechanically identical.
As in:
Throttle- stop screws: exactly identical degrees from closed. (If we want higher idle speed, adjust each side by say 25 degrees extra. So both sides always operate at the same amount of turns and degrees. (Use plain common sense to avoid choke system's idle cam from interfering with adjustment, like leaving ign on for short while to disable choke).
Idle mixture: Most 412 carbs, like type 3 carbs, have a little black "wheel" on idle screw. (Below idle cutoff valve in picture). There is a raised part. Like braille. So it can easily be adjusted by hand, and position can easily be felt even by a blind person. Also keep adjustment identical turns/degrees each side. I adjust mixture for highest idle speed when at operating temp. Then turn each screw in slightly, (richer), for a minor, barely noticeable, lower idle speed. This is to compensate for when engine is cold. Might need minor touch-up when very cold. Always keep both sides identical turns/degrees. (Kombi carbs have recessed screws).
Linkage... easy. Also adjust so that both carbs open at exactly the same time.
There is one MAJOR issue. Many/most people get confused between direction when turning screws. So they mess up the settings, sometimes without realizing.
In early days i tried syncronize by flow meter, but with these single-throat per side Solex carbs i get excellent results when simply keeping all adjustments "mechanically identical". And once adjusted, they stay that way.
The cold-idle cams (behind choke element), helps to slightly raise idle speed for first few minutes if engine is cold. (Hopefully they have not been fiddled with before). Adjustment, again, is plain common sense.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
-
- Pushrod
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
Thanks for the explanation, Dawie. I use the same approach in setting my Ponton 220S carbs. I'm not a trained mechanic but the manual is quite helpful and I manage to do most tasks on my cars. There is also YouTube.
- mhsmuts
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
Thanks Dawie. You are giving me hope!Dawie wrote:How the 411/412 carbs differ from kombi versions:
Left hand carb. All we have to do is use plain common sense. Adjust each side to be mechanically identical.
As in:
Throttle- stop screws: exactly identical degrees from closed. (If we want higher idle speed, adjust each side by say 25 degrees extra. So both sides always operate at the same amount of turns and degrees. (Use plain common sense to avoid choke system's idle cam from interfering with adjustment, like leaving ign on for short while to disable choke).
Idle mixture: Most 412 carbs, like type 3 carbs, have a little black "wheel" on idle screw. (Below idle cutoff valve in picture). There is a raised part. Like braille. So it can easily be adjusted by hand, and position can easily be felt even by a blind person. Also keep adjustment identical turns/degrees each side. I adjust mixture for highest idle speed when at operating temp. Then turn each screw in slightly, (richer), for a minor, barely noticeable, lower idle speed. This is to compensate for when engine is cold. Might need minor touch-up when very cold. Always keep both sides identical turns/degrees. (Kombi carbs have recessed screws).
Linkage... easy. Also adjust so that both carbs open at exactly the same time.
There is one MAJOR issue. Many/most people get confused between direction when turning screws. So they mess up the settings, sometimes without realizing.
In early days i tried syncronize by flow meter, but with these single-throat per side Solex carbs i get excellent results when simply keeping all adjustments "mechanically identical". And once adjusted, they stay that way.
The cold-idle cams (behind choke element), helps to slightly raise idle speed for first few minutes if engine is cold. (Hopefully they have not been fiddled with before). Adjustment, again, is plain common sense.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
- mhsmuts
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Re: Twin carb to single carb conversion on type 2
Thanks Hermanretrovan wrote:Twin carbs are not that hard to set,
Every body is scared of the boggy man but no one has seen him, the same for the carbs,
The guys do not do their homework, and fiddle not knowing what they do, and then happens.
Start systematically, with the cleaning of the carbs, one at a time, and then follow the correct way to set them.
They have run the car perfectly for the last 40 years, I am sure you will get them to work another 40.
The forum will assist you when you get to that point, I am sure.
And if all else fails, you can fit a set of WEBER 34ICT carbs they work a treat.
good luck with your project,
enjoy
Herman
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