Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Bugger »

retrovan wrote: Fri May 17, 2019 9:34 am
Bugger wrote: Thu May 16, 2019 12:26 pm Thanks for the Call

Glad you came right with the Spookpiss :D :D on the Selector fork it loosens up lots of things
Come on Pierre, let us know what you recommended, it will be helpful to many with the same problem.

Herman

Lol

I Explained to Donovan a newlybuilt Box with Special Ratios is built out of a combo of basically 3 Transmissions
so the gears need to spin to engauge easy as it is used Parts and unfortunately not new as from Factory


It does take some time for the Shifting o get easier


Adapterplates Available for Rotary in Beetle and others aswell
And Special Boxes built for Rotary Conversions and Scubies
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082 600 8663

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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Donovan D »

Just feedback on the gears,
I removed the coupler and shift rod, noticed some grooves on the shift rod which I filed down. There was a definite lip/burr on the one and I can imagine it catching on the spring lever thingy inside the tunnel. No bushes here.

Image


Then I added some gearbox oil in the gearbox, turning the input shaft I could see the gears getting a good amount of oil on them and in between the teeth. I engaged first gear and again turned the input shaft, then did the same with second and reverse, selecting gears on the coupler connected to the hockey stick. I did that a few times, which was probably not necessary.
Tried to engage third and again it would not go, but I could feel a bit of movement. Using a rubber mallet I gently tapped it into third. When I pulled the coupler to get to neutral again I pulled it straight into fourth gear by hand. That was the end of the stuck third and fourth. Connected the shifter rod and shifter and all is working. Third and fourth is harder to engage than the rest of the gears but at least I can engage them.

At the moment Im just cleaning and testing all the electrical bits, so far all is in working order and they are ready to go in.

I do however need an earlier 'SG' ignition switch. I do have the 'SC' which is a 60's one but the screw holes arent lining up. Would prefer to get something that fits rather than having to modify it. I do have a type 3 and also a split bus ignition switch if someone wants to swop.
Also in need of a 6 wire turn signal switch housing for bug.
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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Donovan D »

Before removing the 12x1.5 press in studs on my wheels and replacing them with 14x1.5 studs, which is costly, does anyone know where I might be able to find 12 x 1.5 ball/radius studs(right in pic) ? I have tried most tyre places and phoned a couple of places with no luck.

At the moment the conical ones(left in pic) are just eating away at the rims as they dont seat properly. I do have 14 x 1.5 nuts that I got with the wheels but the studs on the wheels and adapters are 12 x 1.5.


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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by retrovan »

Why not have the existing nuts turned down to match your rims. ??

This will be a lot easier as they will then match the worn wheel holes

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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by V6 Capri »

There are places that do it. A couple of years ago I was looking for a wobble bolt for my Escort wheels. Autoquip in Boksburg gave me the number of a place in Alberton that supply pretty much every nut and bolt you can think of. Unfortunately, I lost the number and haven't been able to use my google-fu skills to find it again.

That being said, have you tried places like President nut & bolt in JHB?
http://www.presidentbolt.co.za/products.html
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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Tony Z »

I'm going to order nuts for my bug again. Do you want me to order for you?
What colour?
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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Tony Z »

OK, been looking, cant find

What I did find is this
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email me if you want me to order
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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Tony Z »

OK, found another supplier of the same part, but it turns out to be for M14
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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Donovan D »

I can get both front adapters redone to the correct thread 14x1.5, labour and parts included for R480.

The rear will also need to be redone, but at the moment I have 1cm of washers in as spacer and the tyre is about 2 mm away from the springplate.
I will only be able to know exactly what is needed once there is some weight in the car and the rear height it set correctly.
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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Tony Z »

Donovan D wrote: Fri Jun 28, 2019 1:34 pm I can get both front adapters redone to the correct thread 14x1.5, labour and parts included for R480.
thats damn cheap. I wouldnt hesitate.
The time you are spending and then the petrol to drive around and look for parts is going to cost you more. Heck, those adapter washers in USA are $33, excl postage and import fees...
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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Donovan D »

Should there be any side movement on the petrol pedal shaft, number 2 in the pic, about 4mm side to side?

I have checked rechecked and checked again. Everything seems to be correct. All the other pedals and bits have no side to side movement and is secured. Only the petrol shaft, which runs straight through the middle of the assembly has play.

The shaft has a shoulder at the pedal end and is then secured against the pedal with a small nut, which means I cant tighten it more to get rid of the play. The pedal does not leave the shoulder of the bracket. It just seems like a lot of side play ?

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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Tony Z »

Check the other side of the tunnel, where the cable clips on.
If I remember correctly, the movement is taken up there. If you disconnect the link-arm then the whole pedal is free to move out. Maybe you've lost a circlip??
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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Donovan D »

Tony Z wrote: Tue Jul 23, 2019 1:52 pm Check the other side of the tunnel, where the cable clips on.
If I remember correctly, the movement is taken up there. If you disconnect the link-arm then the whole pedal is free to move out. Maybe you've lost a circlip??
Seems that its all correct.

I cant see any place for a circlip on the shaft. The assembly process in the manual does not mention any circlips or freeplay/movement of the pedal shaft either.
Its just simply push it through the brake pedal shaft, bolt it to the passenger side on the tunnel and tighten the brake pedal using a washer and nut.

I can take up the freeplay using washers between the unit and the tunnel to push it out, but that would mean the cover will not be flush against the tunnel and have a gap.
Or I can take the shoulder back on the shaft at the pedal end.

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I have also searched on theSamba for any mention of this with no luck. Will post it up there and see what the guys say.
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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by retrovan »

Bracket #18 on 1st drawing, #13 on 2nd drawing, has a bush in it and this is taking up the slack of the shaft.

Not sure where you will find this bush, as I turned up one for the 52 from PTFE shaft.

If not you can bend the ears open but do not make it too tight, or your carb spring will not pull the peddle back and the rev's could run away from you.

Herman
Last edited by retrovan on Wed Jul 24, 2019 1:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

Post by Tony Z »

OK, that pedal assembly is very different to the later one I was thinking of...
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