Carburetor adjustment

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Ricoffy
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Carburetor adjustment

Post by Ricoffy »

Hi Guys,

Need some help.

In the carburetor adjustment procedure, I have come across conflicting versions on how to do it. It would seems that the one thing that they all agree on is the fact that the engine must be at operating temp and the choke must be properly adjusted.

What is the correct procedure?

These are the two versions I came across:

https://www.wikihow.com/Set-the-34Pict/ ... Vw)-Beetle

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iF5sewX6UU

Which is the correct one? In the video Bob says to turn in the bypass to the lowest idle. In the wiki page it states to adjust the bypass screw to 850rpm and then to adjust the volume screw.

What is the lowest idle - just before the engine dies?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers


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John Alves
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Re: Carburetor adjustment

Post by John Alves »

I used this and all worked out fine
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No sense being pessimistic. It wouldn't work anyway.

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John Alves
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Re: Carburetor adjustment

Post by John Alves »

Before you touch that carb, make sure everything else is sorted, you can sit many hours (as I have) fiddling with the carb only to find out its something else.
No sense being pessimistic. It wouldn't work anyway.

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Re: Carburetor adjustment

Post by retrovan »

Before doing anything, check for leaks in the intake system.

Use Quick Start and spray around the intake joints when running the engine in idle.

if you have a leak, the rev's will pick up a bit.

Most problems are with gaskets , not carbs.

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Ricoffy
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Re: Carburetor adjustment

Post by Ricoffy »

Thanks guys.

I did check for leaks around the intake seals and where the intake mounts on the cylinder heads. No leaks - luckily.

Will give the adjustment a try tonight.
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Re: Carburetor adjustment

Post by 73type2 »

Ricoffy wrote: Thu Oct 10, 2019 12:35 pm
I did check for leaks around the intake seals ...
That is one of the reasons why I like single port intake manifold engines. Less chance for connections that can leak.
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Re: Carburetor adjustment

Post by Ricoffy »

73type2 wrote: Thu Oct 10, 2019 3:47 pm
Ricoffy wrote: Thu Oct 10, 2019 12:35 pm
I did check for leaks around the intake seals ...
That is one of the reasons why I like single port intake manifold engines. Less chance for connections that can leak.
I have to confess, the advice of checking everything else was spot on.

I tried for about an hour to adjust the carb, taking it for a drive, adjusting again but to no avail.

I could not get rid of flat spots and sputter at 1500 - 2000rpm.

I checked the condenser, coil, distributor, points, valve clearance, replaced the spark plugs, took the carb apart to check the float and cleaned the jets - kept me busy till 9:30pm last night. The only thing I did not check at that time was for a vacuum leak - which I did two nights ago.

So I took out the quick start and started spraying liberally (much more than I did two days ago) around the intake boot which I had to remove when I took off the cylinder head. Lo and behold - a vacuum leak. The rubber boot was fine, but the clamps did not seem to clamp very well. I replaced the clamps and it worked beautifully. Could now easily adjust the carb to 850rpm. And the flat spots are no more.
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Re: Carburetor adjustment

Post by 73type2 »

Ah Ricoffy! That must have been such a great feeling! It made it all worthwhile keeping at it till the late hours. I have awoken many a neighbour by fiddling with old cars late in the night. But you're on a farm so that's probably not a concern. Another check to see if air might be getting in somewhere is to turn the mixture screw fully in (gently). The engine should then die. If not, it means that some air is coming in somewhere else.
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