Mazda 13B conversion

[Surge]

There is no extra plumbing to do on the turbo motor all the importers only bring in the turbo motors as far as I know

I thought I'd have to do a lot of mods - sounds like it may be manageable after all.

The motor std with its turbo and intercooler fitted on top with all the other shit stripped off ---Aircon power steering pump air pump emision control valves ---- it fits in the back of the bug with no cutting

Ok that's good but I assume I'd have to move things like the intercooler and turbo plumbing to get it to fit. That's the part I don't look forward to.

When you buy the motor there is no extra you need to do when running it turbo

Except for an after market engine management system.
Ok you've convinced me - now I just need to go organise some credit quickly.

[Bugger]

Ok that's good but I assume I'd have to move things like the intercooler and turbo plumbing to get it to fit. That's the part I don't look forward to.

When you buy the motor there is no extra you need to do when running it turbo

Noi not even moving the intercooler is needeed

A u bend for the exhaust and there you go

and the Declid closes as long as it is a 70`s model declid


This is my beetle with charge cooling and a lot of mods


This is the way not do do it by fitting the intercooler and oil cooler right next to one another and cutting the whole doggy box away

Rether leave the intercooler on top and in good time when finances agree build a charge cooler

The way with a stock 13BT and injection is defnitley the way to go

You are more than welcome to come and visit me to have a look at the way I built my beetle and the way I did the doggy box



This was 13BT in my DC and it ran like a Bat out of hell



The most important safety device is water level indicator with cut out

[Surge]

Cool! This is starting to sound like a really easy conversion.
I should have done it 5 years ago.
Thanks for the info.

[Tony Z]

Nothing is easy.... remember that. Any job that looks easy prob has a snag to it that you dont expect....

[Surge]

Nothing is easy.... remember that. Any job that looks easy prob has a snag to it that you dont expect....

Yeah but it can't be worse than mid-mounting a V6 engine.

[Surge]

I bought a 13BT today - will pick it up on Tuesday if my boss lets me get off work early.
I wasn't expecting to find anything worthwhile purchasing so I left the trailer at home. Duh!

I still have to figure out if it's a series 4 or 5 but the compression seemed to be really good - it's actually quite hard to turn the engine by hand but it was smooth and made nice popping noises as the apex seals hit the exhaust ports.

Bugger ... when are you getting that adapter plate back?

[Bugger]

Will follow up on tuesday for the adapter plate

Series 4 has a mechanical metering pump (oil pump pumping the oil in to the ally housing for lubrication

Series 5 has a electrical pump

These sit at the bottom left if you look at the motor from the pullys side and the series 4 has a back timing cover that has 2 vertical pieces that stick out and the s5 only one to the right of the motor

And normally the s5 has a plastic water filler neck and the s4 ally



Glad you got a motor The line was really bad when we spoke on friday

[Surge]

Will follow up on tuesday for the adapter plate

Thanks.
I'm not sure about the flywheel. I know that one has to machine a Beetle flywheel to fit the rotary but it also needs to be counter-weighted correctly. On the Rx-7's with an automatic gearbox it's a separate counter weight and on the manual it's built into the flywheel.

What does one do in the Beetle application?
Get the Beetle flywheel "un-balanced" or does one add a separate counter-weight?

Series 4 has a mechanical metering pump (oil pump pumping the oil in to the ally housing for lubrication
Series 5 has a electrical pump
And normally the s5 has a plastic water filler neck and the s4 ally

Yeah, I think it's a series 4 engine (if no one has modded it) - it had an aluminium water filler neck.
They had one with the plastic water filler (which was broken) but it was missing the turbo.
I'll be happy if it's a series 4 because the electric OMP on the series 5 engines are evidently a pain and often impossible to set up with after market ECUs. And I don't know if I want to pre-mix because then if someone drives the car and fills up without premixing ...

Glad you got a motor The line was really bad when we spoke on friday

Yeah that's what you get when you work at a telecoms company.
If it's a computer sales company they have the worst, half broken PCs on their desks.
If it's a telecoms company the phones are always giving trouble.
If it's a cars spares place the employees drive pieces of rubbish.
Actually it's more to do with the fact that the IT department is at the bottom of the building under tons of concrete with no windows. No wonder we look like nerds!

[ftt]

remember, you going to need a radiator and piping that runs below the car from the front to the back as well.

[Surge]

remember, you going to need a radiator and piping that runs below the car from the front to the back as well.

Radiator was mounted back in 2003. Massive 3 core custom radiator (tapered to fit the spare wheel well).
Will need to do the plumbing and lots of it. Water pipes, oil cooler pipes, fuel pump return pipe, etc.

[Bugger]

I started on getting all the stuff ready today for my shorter ratio box want to try and get hottie running by the end of the month

when you come and pick up the adapter flywheel counter weight combo I will show you the other pipes and things you will need at the end of the day things will fall in place

[flatfan]

hey surge hope u havent started yet? ive got two beetles running 13bs and there no pluming and shit needed. the 13b turbo motors come complete. u dont have to take eanything of. and i use mr. turbo efi R1800 all u need. gotech is shit on a rotary makes it kak heavy on fuel. email me if u want help. dewalderasmus@yahoo.co.uk motor no cost R5600 then its been stripped and repacked with a startup and one month guarentee.

[Surge]

hey surge hope u havent started yet? ive got two beetles running 13bs and there no pluming and shit needed. the 13b turbo motors come complete. u dont have to take eanything of. and i use mr. turbo efi R1800 all u need. gotech is shit on a rotary makes it kak heavy on fuel. email me if u want help. dewalderasmus@yahoo.co.uk motor no cost R5600 then its been stripped and repacked with a startup and one month guarentee.

I've already started, got an engine that has good compression and I've got my arms and pocket so deep in the project that I'm going to have to keep going.

I don't really agree with your comments about Gotech being rubbish and making the rotary heavy on fuel.
That sounds like a tuning problem more than anything else and it also depends on how the fuel is being managed by the ECU. MAP, TPS, closed loop O2, etc. Not all of the methods will give one the best fuel economy and if I was worried about fuel economy I wouldn't have picked a rotary engine in the first place.
I can't see any logical explanation why the Gotech fuel maps can't be tweaked to one's satisfaction. Anyway that's just my opinion and you're welcome to disagree with me.

Now I just have to make an adapter plate that I'm satisfied with.
Does anyone know where I can get my hands on a scrap 13B eccentric shaft? I just want the tapered bit on the flywheel end for mounting in balancing machines and lathes.

[Ryno Taljaard]

I am looking for examples of engine mountings to fit 13b in beetle.
Only my transmission mounted to body and too much movement on engine.
Or any advice on mounting would be appreciated.

[Bugger]

Hi

use a solid mount on the Gerbox side

then Build a Rear X Member with any type of mountings you are able to get eg ford V6


Google Empi Axle tramp bar then you get the Idea how to do a rear type of pull up mounting

You can whatsapp my then Ill send you some engine pics 0826008663