Hot Wheels 2 - Pine's new Buggy build thread
- Tony Z
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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
it might have been literally a reserve tank for something. A tank with enough juice to get you 1km up he road to the petrol station
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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
Hey! There is no such thing like too many questionsPine wrote:*snip*
Am I starting to sound like Merlin or Blitz with all the questions and 'I once read' comments....

If it's too low, you're too old 

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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
You are 100% correct, Blitz
..and so was Johnny Cash
There are more questions than answers
Pictures in my mind that will not show
There are more questions than answers
And the more I find out the less I know
Yeah, the more I find out the less I know
..and so was Johnny Cash
There are more questions than answers
Pictures in my mind that will not show
There are more questions than answers
And the more I find out the less I know
Yeah, the more I find out the less I know
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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
Those words are very true. Something to think about 

If it's too low, you're too old 

- beetlepower
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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
I still think the tank is a good idea because it will eliminate the chance of any water getting in the breather and into the engine, be it by off road river crossings or puddles or rain.. as the engine will be exposed to a ceratin extent
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- Tom Bishop
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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
”Experience is what you get when you do not get what you want”
- lowlight
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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
Some 2stroke lawn mowers had a tap with reserve and a shut down position
Some days we are the flies , some days we are the windscreens
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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
Update 14/12/2008- IRS, here we come!
Just returned from IMPI where we spent the weekend shortening the buggy chassis.
As I said before, I got this IRS rear part a year ago, which I planned to merge to the (shortened) standard chassis

The first cut is the deepest - IMPI cutting the full-length chassis for shortening

The inner cable guides of the chassis, carefully loosened so that they can be used again


With 381mm of the centre 'tunnel' removed, the back part is welded back onto the front part

The completed, shortened, IRS chassis - note the strong and neat welds


The rectangular tubing still needs to be welded along the outer part of the tunnel, in the shape of a chassis - then the entire chassis will be sand blasted and powder coated.
A HUGE thanks to IMPI for his help (once again
) this weekend

Just returned from IMPI where we spent the weekend shortening the buggy chassis.
As I said before, I got this IRS rear part a year ago, which I planned to merge to the (shortened) standard chassis

The first cut is the deepest - IMPI cutting the full-length chassis for shortening

The inner cable guides of the chassis, carefully loosened so that they can be used again


With 381mm of the centre 'tunnel' removed, the back part is welded back onto the front part

The completed, shortened, IRS chassis - note the strong and neat welds


The rectangular tubing still needs to be welded along the outer part of the tunnel, in the shape of a chassis - then the entire chassis will be sand blasted and powder coated.
A HUGE thanks to IMPI for his help (once again



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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
IMPI's workmanship is brilliant 
Will you be going with a normal Beetle IRS gearbox? Or one from a Bus?

Will you be going with a normal Beetle IRS gearbox? Or one from a Bus?
If it's too low, you're too old 

- AirPower
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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
I think that's going to drive like a dream
. Nice work there
. Surely this is a first - usually the standard beetle chassis is adapted and brackets added to take the IRS, am I right?


Eben said: "ACVW's are made of logic."
Bugger said: "I am happy with the drum brakes when done right as this will be used rarely"
"If it can't be fixed with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem" said by someone.
Bugger said: "I am happy with the drum brakes when done right as this will be used rarely"
"If it can't be fixed with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem" said by someone.
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Re: Pine's Buggy (Hot Wheels 2?) thread
Update 16/12/2008
Got two trailing arms for the IRS from IMPI, they are originally from an automatic Type 3 and were then used on an off-road Sandmaster racer, and have been lying in the parts stack for a number of years. Problem was that one of the stub axles still had the brake drum on, with the castle nut seized and rusted solid onto it.
I soaked the castle nut with Q10 penetrating oil yesterday, and spent some time on my back in bed last night thinking how I would get it off. Easy with the wheel on the car, and a large pipe with a 36mm socket for leverage - but off the car: almost impossible. In the early morning hours I got an idea...
Bolt a wheel (with a tyre) onto the drum, wrap a strap around it and around something solid - and give it a try.
So that was exactly what I did, but I had used an old safety belt for a strap. Wrapped it around the tyre, and around one of the pillars of the carport. The power bar on the socket is from a jack spanner (it has been helpful plenty of times in the past), and I have a length of water pipe that goes over the power bar. It worked perfectly, with the tyre having enough friction on the strap not to turn, and after some huffing and puffing (and more generous sprays from the Q10 can) the nut came loose!


This is what the inside of a Type 3 rear brake drum looks like. Hope I'll be able to save some of it..

The two Type 3 rear brake drums that I will try to hand in tomorrow at a brake shop for skimming and bonding of the brake shoes. (Hope I'll find a place willing to do it this time of the year.)

The two IRS torsion bar cover plates, compared to a normal Beetle plate at the bottom

Got two trailing arms for the IRS from IMPI, they are originally from an automatic Type 3 and were then used on an off-road Sandmaster racer, and have been lying in the parts stack for a number of years. Problem was that one of the stub axles still had the brake drum on, with the castle nut seized and rusted solid onto it.
I soaked the castle nut with Q10 penetrating oil yesterday, and spent some time on my back in bed last night thinking how I would get it off. Easy with the wheel on the car, and a large pipe with a 36mm socket for leverage - but off the car: almost impossible. In the early morning hours I got an idea...
Bolt a wheel (with a tyre) onto the drum, wrap a strap around it and around something solid - and give it a try.
So that was exactly what I did, but I had used an old safety belt for a strap. Wrapped it around the tyre, and around one of the pillars of the carport. The power bar on the socket is from a jack spanner (it has been helpful plenty of times in the past), and I have a length of water pipe that goes over the power bar. It worked perfectly, with the tyre having enough friction on the strap not to turn, and after some huffing and puffing (and more generous sprays from the Q10 can) the nut came loose!


This is what the inside of a Type 3 rear brake drum looks like. Hope I'll be able to save some of it..

The two Type 3 rear brake drums that I will try to hand in tomorrow at a brake shop for skimming and bonding of the brake shoes. (Hope I'll find a place willing to do it this time of the year.)

The two IRS torsion bar cover plates, compared to a normal Beetle plate at the bottom

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