Replacing the main drive seal.

[Colin]

Hey guys ive got a 1975 Transporter(1800 manual) . it has started leaking engine oil from the main drive where the engine and gear box meet. Ive got the haynes owners workshop manual. But is there anyone that has maby done this job that can give me some advise on how to go about removing the engine and replace the seal , should i remove the engine and gearbox or just the engine? Then one of the spark plugs threads have striped ive hurd that there is some kind of insert to sort this prob. Are there any hidden problems that will cost me more than expected.

Thanx

[Tony Z]

Pulling the engine should be little more than disconnecting all wires and fuel lines, throttle linkage.... undo 4 bolts on flywheel side. I dont know if you have rear engine mounts or not, look into that. Pull the engine off the gearbox (the 4 bolts holt it to the gbox).

Remove flywheel
remove and replace seal (dont forget to put grease on the seal and crank before installing it)

put it all back together.


You might find that the seal is damaged because of a crank issue, who knows, only you will know this when you pull the seal out.


You can helicoil the spark plugs, its a bandaid fix, it has worked for years for many so there is no reason it wont work for you.

[Colin]

ok thanx so u think is should be fairly easy.
Yes helicoil thats what i was thinking of do u know where i can get it .Can i do it myself or is it something that i need to send in to be done.
when droping the engine using a trolly jack how do u suport the whol engine . And how do you suport the gearbox once the engine is out?

[Dawie]

On type4- engined baywindows the gearbox has mountings on top above the bellhousing,unlike early 1600 baywindows where there was none. So the gearbox is self supported.

The trolleyjack should support the weight of the engine,(use a piece of wood in between the jack and engine block).

Helicoil is best left to experts if you dont have experience with that. Make very sure no metal particles enter the combustion chamber. May be neccessary to remove the head to ensure that.

[Colin]

Thanx ive started stripping but i dont think the gbox is self suported on mine i will check tomorrow.

[Colin]

Ok the gearbox does have its own suport. Now the engine is supose to drop out the bottom and then the bus pushed forwards but i cant see how im going to get the engine low enough on the jack so that it will clear the back of the bus.

[Tony Z]

drop it onto bricks, then remove the jack. Remove the bricks until the engine is on the ground.
Jack up the bus
drag the engine out

[Colin]

Thanx guys ive got the engine out now. I found the best way to do it is to jack the whol bus up about 20cm then u can keep the engine on the jack and role it out . now its time to clean and fix .

[Colin]

how do i get the old oil seal out?

[Tony Z]

remove flywheel.
Pull out with screwdrivers or a cork screw (wine bottle opener).

[Matt]

i have an brass insert on my number 1 plug, if u go this route, clean it nicely and put lock tight. the previous owner never...
wot a shlep. now the insert is stuck to the plug, taking it off wasnt easy. so glueing it back was the only option.

the seal is as easy as said. take it out however u can. its buggered anyway. check your thrust bearing movement while the engine
is out. with a clock gauge is best. maybe theres a run out on the bearings. coz the seal doesnt just go coz of age.
my first cabbie leaked in the same spot....only to find the crank was running way out. luckily herbie motors
was still doin line boring-R180.

its easier to strip and check the motor while its out