What did you do on your car today?

[Tony Z]

good work on the fuel filter!!

I guess I'll be going past Suburban today, I need to get to Paarden Eiland anyway.

[riaanj]

Today I put the beetle on tressles and stripped down the whole brake system, getting ready for the brake rebuild, so this week comeing I'm off to get some s/s braided lines made up, some rigid lines made up, rear backing plates must go to the powder coaters with some other bits & bobs & the M/C is going in for a s/s sleeve as I can't find a new RHD one for my 1303 and as soon as that's all done & ready I'll begin assembly (includes disk brake kit for the front)..

[Cogita]

On Saturday we replaced the Tie Rod Ends,Gear Lever,window winders,indicator unit and tried sorting out the steering column, but failed. gonna attempt it again today....next on the list is the King Pins.

[MarshallGTi]

yesterday i drove it for the 1st time in a while, then swore at it, then pushed it home, then swore some more.

[Tony Z]

yesterday i drove it for the 1st time in a while, then swore at it, then pushed it home, then swore some more.

LOL
Shame boet, I am sure we all know the feeling.

[Retrobug]

removed an assortment of sticks, leaves and bits of plastic from the driver side door keyhole that my two year old son was using to attempt to open the door with!
Hey, but at least the dude loves the Bug and only wanted to get in!
So no getting angry!

[Tony Z]

replaced all tie-rods and took her in for wheel alignment.

Threw my tows out the cot when I was told they wont do a car as old as a beetle. Eventually one of the guys decided to do it after I told them I'll do it myself, all it takes is a 22 and 24mm spanner and some time.
I'll admit, the guy who did it was good. He even noticed that my steering wheel was not on in true center (out by about 10minutes). I moved the wheel to the proper center and I now have nearly a 1/4 turn more on the steering before I hit my suspension. I am pretty happy now.

I really need to arrange a dyno session. I took out my 150 main jets as they were way too lean and replaced them with 170's. These are a tad rich, I suspect 165's will be spot on.

I seriously cannot get over how easy to drive the car is, even with a 310deg cam. Off idle its like driving a stocker. I can even putter around in 4th at 1500rpm.

[retrovan]

Tony, I would have guessed 155 or 160 with a colder set of plugs.
Remember to go 1 number colder for each mod.

Just to quote from an old posting of mine...

Write up by NGK.....

Heat range

The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.

The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers(Champion, Autolite), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For NGK, the higher the number, the colder the plug.

Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single pre-calibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage

http://www.ngk.com/glossaryImages/721.jpg

Maybe I should just try it......
Herman

Herman

[Tony Z]

Thanks Herman

I am already 1 grade colder using D8EA plugs.
Will see when I get to the dyno and after that. Still some work to do first though (on the bug and builders starting at house today). So time is an issue again

[vader]

yesterday i drove it for the 1st time in a while, then swore at it, then pushed it home, then swore some more.

LOL
Shame boet, I am sure we all know the feeling.

Some of us more than others....

[jmvv]

When Petrus' generator died, it was a good excuse to fit the alternator that I had lying around.

I had it overhauled by Caelex in Pretoria (R700), got an alternator stand from Andreas and we were set.

Removed the decklid hinges to lift the fan housing out. Al in all it took twenty minutes to have the fan housing on the shop floor.

Fitted the alternator and found that the fan interferes with the housing, so swopped the gennie fan in.

Then the oil filler nut would not budge. Asked Werner Alker for help - found the nut to be seized, so he supplied me with a replacement.

Refitted everything and ran new 8 AWG wire from alternator to battery, bypassed the old voltage regulator (the alternator is internally regulated) and started it - now it's got some 'lectric.

Modified a cement chisel to use as a tool to tighten the filler nut. For the first time in six years that is now VAS as I could never get the original to tighten.

The biggest hassle is to refit the deck lid spring - a BITCH of a job.

[Tony Z]

Just finished washing my car. Almost ready for the George show...

[ValieVW]

Last night I figgured out how to set up the automatic choke, quite clever these germans, i'm new to the VW culture but my '74 1600 Bus purrs like a kitten now

[Riekert]

Last night I figgured out how to set up the automatic choke, quite clever these germans, i'm new to the VW culture but my '74 1600 Bus purrs like a kitten now

Do tell! Haha

Fitted clutch and flywheel. Was busy fitting motor but failed haha

[MarshallGTi]

i drove it, and for a decent distance for a change