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Merlin
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Post by Merlin »

The bug has been into a reputable gearbox place twice already - once 'cause I F'ked it up trying my Luck with the QS.

The 'bushing' in the tunnel has been replaced, all the oils, etc. checked, and everything adjusted, etc.

2; 3; 4 are generally alright, but I'm struggling my @$^& off with 1st.

It seems to be worse when it's cold :?:

In the mornings I really have to force the 'lever into 1st.

It generally feels like it's pushing it's way between a clip or something to reach 1st - that sort of feeling...

...when it's warm it's better, but still not what I would call "slick" or smooth.

If it means anything to you, there is a lot of movement with the 'lever even when engaged in a gear.

I do not have crunching sounds, or jumping gears. :)

The lock-out plate is installed correctly.

N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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Post by calooker »

The oil in the box can also have an effect on the gear change especially during cold running, get synthetic oil put in, it is not cheap but well worth the money, I have Synthetic oil in all my air-cooled rides and my wife's car.
For what it's worth, ignorance has no limits ......
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Merlin
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Post by Merlin »

It's probably going back on MON, so I'll ask 'em what they used.

Thanks.

N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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fig
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Post by fig »

Merlin wrote:In the mornings I really have to force the 'lever into 1st. It generally feels like it's pushing it's way between a clip or something to reach 1st - that sort of feeling...
If your car is reluctant to go into first, don't force it. Rather lift your foot off the clutch and start the process over and it'll usually slip in to first the second time round. I think it's a sign of wear in the box, and you'll eventually be in for a rebuild. I would just put up with it until something breaks.

Something else to check is transmission mounts, especially the front one (FIF), which can affect your ability to put it into gear. And changing your own trans oil is good, because then you can give it a tea leaf reading. Any bits of metal bigger than a pinhead is trouble brewing.

My 75 Fleetline panelvan the Ratmobile has very dodgy shifting and the DPO welded the gearshift lever mounting plate to the floor. When I noticed that soon after buying the bus I thought to hell with it, it's driveable once you're used to it and I'll only get into hacking the shift lever out when something down there actually breaks.

That was 13 years and 225 000km ago and my shift lever is still welded to the floor and it baulks into first and it's easy to hit reverse instead of shifting down to second if you're not careful, not to mention a clunk in one axle. I replaced all the trans mounts in 1995 and the reduction box bearings in 1998. I change the oil every two years and I'll fix it when it breaks. All my other buses have sweeet gearshifts.

And I get a sense you want your Bug to shift as well as it can, which may mean rebuild time if you're certain it's not shift rod bushings, coupling, trans mounts or something else external to the gearbox.
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Merlin
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Post by Merlin »

...I sense a couple of hundred bucks leaving my account sometime soon. :/

The bug is now my daily, and I usually sit in bumper-to-bumper traffic everyday to and from work, so first is essential and it's a bit of an issue holding up traffic while I try to get first. :/

...so yes, it must shift as good as is possible.

It's heading for the gearbox shop next week...

Thanks, N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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Post by calooker »

A bug I had also had some trouble engaging first gear, what I found and it made plenty difference was, if I put it firstly into second gear then into first gear it would go in fairly smoothly, after a while it became a habit and I just did it naturally I drove it for about 2 years like that until I sold it.
Don't complain the dudes driving the early 6v crash boxes have no syncro in first gear and driving in traffic is a pain, first will not engage until the ride comes to a complete standstill.
I would not recommend doing too much traffic driving with cooling tinware missing, you are going to toast your motor.
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Post by Merlin »

I've been using that second-1st-then-first trick for quite some time now. :)

You can spin it 'round the block on SAT Rui, but in all likelihood it's going in for a gearbox rebuild next week...

As for the tinware - no bug, no car, and I'm not walking 14km to and from work every day. :/

I'll pick it up from you on SAT.

If it weren't for the s/roof - and a certain lady-friend - I would probably sell it.

I haven't enjoyed my KG/bug experience as much as I was expecting...

I still maintain that a bus is one of the nicest vehicles I have ever driven - and I've driven a LOT of different vehicles, both modern and classic.

Perhaps it's time for a m/bike, or perhaps that long-wanted AC Cobra replica...or a, no, the M3 is some way off... ;)

N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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Post by Tony Z »

I have read this post and you have not told us what the problem is, so its very diffiecult to answer
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Post by Merlin »

Erm, I haven't? ;)

The problem seems to be worse when the car is cold...

I struggle to get 1st gear in the bug. It feels like something is blocking it, unless I force it, at a variable rate depending on the temperature.

Sometimes, even when the car is warm - which takes forever - it will work slightly better than other times.

If it is of any help with the diagnosis, there is a lot of play in the gear lever movement in any gear. Not sure if that is normal, hence the info.

The gearbox does not slip, or jump.

The clutch feels fine to me.

I struggle with 1st whether the car is moving off very slowly, or at a complete standstill - there is no difference whatsoever.

Does that help you Tony? ;)

N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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Post by Tony Z »

have you replaced all the linkage bushings???
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Merlin
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Post by Merlin »

...not so sure of that one. I know they had to Fu my carpet a li'l to replace the main bushing in the tunnel not too long ago.

Apparently that's a big culprit in @$!% shifting...

Have to check that linkage stuff out...

N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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Post by Tony Z »

check the one near the shifter
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Post by CEDGBS »

Had the same prob with my bug! the gate plate was installed upside down and the previous owners said it was like that when they bought it! Corrected it and adjusted plate and problem was solved. You may wana have a look at the coupler under the rear seat if its soft replace it. Also try checking for proper clutch cable adjustment! Hope you find this useful?!!
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Post by Merlin »

Kewl; thanks CEDGBS.

It's been worked on and is now very good, but it's still slightly 'moody' when it's cold...I'm thinking of checking what oil is in the 'box and replacing it with synthetic for the cold mornings...

I'm so keen to install my quick shifter but I'm worried I'll upset everything. *lol*
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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Post by CEDGBS »

You`ll be doing the box alot of good going to a synthetic! You should notice the difference after the oil change! Thats my experience that i`ve had! You can change to the quick shifter, but be prepared for a bit of trail and error adjustments to get things good again or maybe your luckier than myself!!
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