1970 Westfalia Rolling Resto

[EtienneB]

I see you have a set of Firestone CV 2000's on the old gal. With a bit of care (wheel alignment now and then) they can do 100,000 km. When I sold my Isuzu 250D at 860,000 km, she had her ninth set on.

[ChrisG]

Cool! Well that makes me very happy to hear!

Update: Got some quotes today. I am still not sure what the norm is so I'm going to ask what you guys think of these quotes.

At Volskieworld they want R3500 to replace the ball joints and replace the steering centre pin. Is that a normal price? because I have no clue.

The second quote is the one I like, I went to a place called Southern Auto in Southfield. They said they could rid my bus completely of rust and respray it for 20k. I went into their workshop and they had two beetles, a karmann ghia and quite a few other old classics. The body work looked very good but I am not so sure about their painting. Has anyone had any experience at this shop? Volksieworld said I should try them.

[Dutch_Diver]

Second quote sound too good to be true...Mo's paint job cost 24k without any of the metal work...and it's not perfect for that price. You might be very lucky but I'm not a believer in luck and restorations.....

On the VolksieWorld, are they supply and fit quotes or just the labour? Also is VAT included?

[Dawie]

That would depend on how they fix the play. New kit for swing lever,complete with pin,bushes and seal, or some other plan there?
The draglink between steering box lever and swing lever with the one fixed joint- Do they replace that or use the people who "recondition" balljoints by squeezing melted plastic or something in there to take up the play?

[ChrisG]

No that is without VAT, it is also including the labour. They arent putting a new kit in, they said they would find a replacement one from another bus. They are going to replace the ball joint with a new one I assume, but I will speak to the guy and clarify it. DD the rust isn't that bad to be honest, were it is rusted it is badly rusted and other than that its pretty rust free. I went to a reasonably expensive shop that said I'm looking at about 30k so 20k at a cheaper shop is believable, I do understand though that the job will be inferior but I don't have the luxury of going the whole ten yards yet. I'm just wondering if it is worth waiting 3 years till I have finished my degree because then the cash will come in alot easier, but on the other hand I don't want Dexter rusting anymore.

I have a few options now.
1. Either I can sort out all the running gear,mechanics and electrics 100% and wait till I can afford the body.
2. Fix body complete and fix mechanical stuff when it breaks or gets really bad
3. Do a half job with regards to the body and mechanics and then finish it off when I can (ie. 3 years)
4. Just drive it like it is

I am definitely wanting the rust to be gone just so that it doesn't spread but it would be a bit risky to use all my cash straight up in case something unexpected happens, which is to be expected lol

[MELLO YELLOW]

ChrisG
I would say No 1, and if there is cash left then do what you can cosmetically if you dont want to cruise in a ratty ride and then do it properly when more cash is available

[BUSBFK]

Hi ChirsG
Nice ride.

[Sambabus]

Dont use rust converter,its all bullshit,regardless of what you've been told,cut out and replace if its really bad.If its not that bad,sand it untill its bright and shiney again,then if really uneven or in plain sight,smooth over with body puty,I recomend BLUE ICE body puty,its also water resistant,sands easily and grips really well.If the once rusty spot isnt in plain sight,prime it twice,then paint over it....Stop the rust,protect the metal,even if your bus looks all patchy and multicoloured for a while.

Engines and gearboxes are alot easier to find than undamaged replacement body panals.

[jmvv]

You would need to submit a roadworthy certificate in order to renew the license.

What I did in the past with an extended project was to pay the license even though the disc would not be issued. That way, when it came to the time to get the roadworthy certificate and license disc, I was not handicapped with penalties for outstanding license fees.

[ChrisG]

Thanks mellow, samba and jmvv. I have a bit of a clearer picture of how I should go about it now.

I'm off to Mozambique for a bit, when I get back I will be diving straight into the next step of the project, whatever I decide it to be. I have found a nice place to work on my bus, its an office complex just around the corner from me that my dad has and that is completely empty!!!

Cheers,
Chris

[Dutch_Diver]

Do the rust yourself like Samba says. Take Barry up on this offer once you see bare metal (I'll come and help as I've done some welding in a previous life) and patch up. Then putty, smooth and patch paint and that will easily last 3 years.

If any issues with steering or brakes do them!! If the engine dies when out then that's fine but if the brakes fail on a hill, that's not so fine!

[fig]

Hi ChrisG

My first time in this thread.

When you're in Jhb contact Van Den Brink Motors on 011 708 1279. He has five acres of scrap VWs, including LOTS of baywindows. I'm sure he'll supply you with all the doors and rear hatch and engine hatch. He's a difficult mofo and sometimes expensive, and lots of forum members refuse to buy from him. But he has parts you won't find anywhere else. Also VDB himself is busy driving up Africa at the moment. Speak to his nephew John; he'll sort you out.

For your fuel cap, you van buy a PJ brand locking fuel cap at any parts shop.

I'd say fix the mechanicals first and worry about the body later. Except for the rear roof rust. You must fix that immediately. Fibreglass is a bodge, but it's better than nothing if you can't afford to have it welded up properly.

The correct size tyre for your bus is 185R14C, but the 195s you have are perfect and look more butch then the 185s.

I'm not sure what's up with the front suspension, but the drag link and centre pin have no effect on alignment. The tie rod ends and suspension ball joints may be worn if they can't do the alignment. The Cape Town guys should be able to give you the name of a good mechanic who knows buses. I know there are at least two in Strand. Don't accept any repair that is not going to replace ball joints and centre pin with new parts. The parts are available. The polymer injection stuff is a load of crap IMNSHO.

I don't know any more of the bus's history, but, given the condition of the interior, I am almost certain that the mileage is original and the bus has not turned the clock yet.

Your air filter is leaking at the seal. If you find a replacement seal, please get me one as well! I just live with leaking oil bath air filters because all of mine leak.

I think the sticking accelerator is more likley to do with the complex linkage system under the driver's floor, rather than the cable.

My final advice is don't fix it if it ain't broke (as you might already have discovered by stripping the interior!).

I'm glad you're already enjoying the bus; I hope you enjoy many happy miles in it, and we expect to see you at next year's Kult kamp-out!

[Barry]

ChrisG
I would say No 1, and if there is cash left then do what you can cosmetically if you dont want to cruise in a ratty ride and then do it properly when more cash is available

What he said......

Chris, I really believe that you would be wasting R20K on the body if you went that route. Bodywork "restoration" is a pretty non-existant commodity . I would at the very least want to be able to monitor exactly what the guys are doing.

Get the mechanicals 100% first, contact Fig's guy (replacement panels are always a better option than repairs) and then see where you are. My offer to use my shop and equipment still stands, Dutch is prepared to help too, so you could get sorted out in short order. Save you money for decent paint that you KNOW is going down on top of repairs with good integrity - unless you like the look of rust bubbling under fresh paint.....

Barry

[ChrisG]

Thanks!! Since I read the last few posts I have had such a bee in my bonnet to do this bodywork. It would be a good skill to have as this is only my 1st acvw and there are definately many more to come. Barry & Dutch I am eternally grateful for you offers and I would be a fool to refuse them, so when I get back to CT I will be giving you a call

20k is a heck of alot and come to think of it I could probably sort myself out with a decent welder and some more much needed tools and then still have sufficient cash for the rest of the project.

One last thing, I went to Van Den Brink motors and found a nice engine lid but the guy said he was too busy to cut it off for me, because it was stuck, and that I should come back another day. I told him I lived all the way in Cape Town and I couldn't come back but that didn't help. Anyway it was a really really cool scrap yard and I spent probably 2 hourse rummaging through everything, it was definately worth going out there.

Thanks again,
Chris

[ChrisG]

Ok now I'm officially on a major mission to get this thing roadworthied, I am going to the testing station in the next hour and then whatever needs fixing I plan to get fixed by monday. I don't think I'm being too optimistic, unless they tell me the rust has to be fixed then I will be looking at much later. If they aren't too strict I think I could pass it because the bus is in my eyes alot more roadworthy than many other cars I've seen. When I get back I will tell you what they say, at least whatever the verdict I will know exactly what must be done/not done with it.