Aircooled VW South Africa

1)How much moola you got?
2)why do you have to have a 2l+
3)a 1914cc will be cheaper to build than say a 2332cc,because the stroker crank can cost 400 to 500 dollar even before shipping.
4)what will the car be used for?daily driver,weekend warrior?the one you chose here determines your cam and compression ratio choice...
5)size matters............but a smaller motor can be almost as fun as a big motor... A few tweaks even to a stock 1600 can wake it up considerbly...

5 continued)i have a 1717cc (88mm machine in bored to 89mm x 69mm) wich are the smallest big bore kits you get so not much bigger than a 1600 but this one has balanced flywheel,counterwheight crank,offroad spec cam (not fun for daily driving) and empi ratio rockers,and a 9:1 compression ratio not millions of rand worth of stuff but believe me this things is a day night differance to a 1600,and in a bug will keep you happy long time...and if had to bump it to a 1914cc mmmmmmm heeltyd speeltyd!

A 94mm bore with a 72mm stroke will take you over 2L. What you can do is have a std 69mm crank counter-weighted and then welded up to 72mm + some machining. But Dubster is correct, answer his questions and then ...

Thanks guys... see I dont have 25k to drop at once... That is why I want to buy the stuff needed, part by part..

the car is just a weekend toy, an i ultimately want to spend about 25k ... not any more..

So where do I start? what kind of motor is used for this type of project?
I think I want to buy the motor first...

T1 with 8mm studs.
Check on page 16 here is the link with what DaveR charged me....

http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... &start=225

You can get a stock 69mm crank offset ground to produce a 74mm stroke and use old passat conrods with the now smaller 50mm big end
journals it would cost a lot less than an imported crank I think Crankweld Industries can also weld the crank up for a bigger stroke.
Best motor would be a 1600TP with factory fitted 8mm studs and casesavers it would save you some money.
Im doing a motor buildup bit by bit too on a budget of R10 000 its only a mild 1600 but hoping for a 50% power increase

Those are options yes but im sure it still cost a pretty penny to have the crank welded?its like blitz said there are alot of money wasted on things that can be done locally...like the pressure plates they cut ridges in the flywheel or something that does same as a kennedy pressure plate that you have to import...but to bussiness...get a solid 1600tp and start by buying a big bore kit...94mm...then if you can get the crank stroked otherwise a 69mm cw crank will be fine...then have the cam reground to either

A w100,w110,w120 or whatever spec. Have the case full flowed,and the case and heads opened up for the 94's...mock up the motor and check your deck height and the cc's of your heads...then cbperformance have a cool calculator that can work out your comp ratio.when you have your perfect combonation of deck height and heads cc's to give you your comp ratio you want you have there is a chart wich shows how much you have to flycut the heads to get the desired cc's..then clean up the combustion chambers and ports

If you can. Then asemble the longblock.now next big thing?what carbs you going to run???Also have the flywheel balanced and maybe slighly lightend...o and the carbs you use also influinces the cam you use...

LOL ok thanks for all the help... I think i'll get the motor now... and then as soon as I get more cash... I'll start with all the bits...
Will keep you guys posted!!

Was about to say that get the motor and then go step by step from there...but maybe read through some of the tech articles at http://www.aircooled.net there is a nice one there something type 1 performance considerations or something REALLY GOOD READ.....

Buy one of those NOS 1800 type fours approx 6000
Buy a 40 side draft used and a t3 turbo, rebuild that expect another 4000
Build your own cooling as per Joe cali (search STF) cost would be labour and scrounging use a std dizzy
that should equate a very conservative 120 horses with lots more possible without really touching the block We took 182 horses out of my type four. and double that out of Hermans two liter.
Spend 10000 more and get a proper FI system and 200 horses is possible

Do a proper rebuild on a 2 liter type four and spend about 12000 on a good engine with 2liters as standard this will get about 80 horses without the turbo
buy a set of 96 mm flat top pistons from the US and get 2056cc with 100 to 110 horses easy

Whilst those US guys say type fours are expensive its because of those cheap type one parts OVER THERE, here with imports and the rand dollar there is something to be said for a big type four

Before I forget get a set of Deutz 100 mm sleeves and modify them to fit that type four get 2140 from the 1700 crank and 23something from the 2liter crank use cheap V8 pistons.
I make the valves locally how big do you want to go etc etc

But a nice 1600 with a 110 cam 8to 1 compression and two SP carbs will put a smile on anyones face

Regards
Armand

Yes that another option,type 4 baby!but seriously if impi tells you that a 1600 that has been worked a bit can make you smile you have to know its true...but you could always go for maybe a 1914cc with a draw through turbo setup?do some searches on the us forums those guys have built some nice combos....

dubster wrote:1)How much moola you got?
2)why do you have to have a 2l+
3)a 1914cc will be cheaper to build than say a 2332cc,because the stroker crank can cost 400 to 500 dollar even before shipping.
4)what will the car be used for?daily driver,weekend warrior?the one you chose here determines your cam and compression ratio choice...
5)size matters............but a smaller motor can be almost as fun as a big motor... A few tweaks even to a stock 1600 can wake it up considerbly...

wat sort of tweeks to a stock 1600 are u talking about. looking at just an xtra wee bit of oemph without opening and changing too much for a weekend cruiser.

This is what I posted a few posts back:

I got good results from high ratio rockers and a good 4-1 exhaust, they gave me the best step change after a good dyno tune.

Then, if you want to spend some more, change the carbs, single or twin, AND the heads, larger valves. All this is without splitting the case... Carbs and heads go together. Up to this point, you should not have spent too much yet.

DON'T get talked into fitting a 009 dizzie until you can't avoid it anymore through the lack of a vacuum signal!! Try to keep a vacuum signal when changing carbs, if not your fuel economy will suffer more than what the power increase is worth. There are lots of threads where this is explained.