Building the perfect Type 1 motor

[Junior]

Im going to do 1 thing at a time and if I have any extra dow every now and then t, I will gather a set of disc brakes for the front and a new gear-box and replace king and link pins ect.

[JamesD]

My trancmision Is in need of repair or replacment so Im still deciding what to do with that ( IF I try take of on a up hill and the revs are above 2500rpm it shuders and jumps out of gear )

Your Bowden tube probably doesn't have enough bend in it. it causes the symptoms you describe. Gearbox is probably fine...

[JamesD]

http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqbwdn.htm

http://www.vw-resource.com/bowden_tube.html

[Junior]

That would been great Is that the tube that has the cable going out of it Should I put some washers on it to make it bend more?

[Ron&Gill]

Read:

http://www.vw-resource.com/bowden_tube.html

[dubster]

1776 vs 1915....there is another important rule to remember now,there is NO replacement for displacement,meaning in motors bigger is always better...in a 1776 you can build a quick reving nippy motor that will jump anything out of the line,but high revs causes premature wear on components causing premature engine failure,1915 bigger motor might not be as rev happy but wil make the power the 1776 lower down in the revs meaning it will outlast the 1776 if built properly...but its not that simple as well it al comes down to how all the components work together cam,heads,comp. Ratio,carbs even the length of your intake manifolds influences hom motors perform,but to narrow it down if you can afford to build a big motor then build it because in motors bigger is always better,because they make the power you need with less strain on them than in a small high reving motor...And the 94mm kits arnent that much more expensive 90.5mm kit so you might aswell go big from the begining...

[fig]

1776 vs 1915....there is another important rule to remember now,there is NO replacement for displacement,meaning in motors bigger is always better...

That is assuming your cooling system is up to the extra work...

[Junior]

Looks like Im going 1915 then but my carbs are going to be a problem. Do you think they will manage if I'm not doing any racing or not going TO fast cause I want this build to last not to rev the pore thing to hell and and back. My main thing is it must be able to go up a hill with out having to go 80km/h in 3rd And not be to much of a fuel guzzler at the same time.

LIST SO FAR
So if I can I am going to stick to the 36mm IDF weber carbs
Then get 94 X 69 piston and cylinder kit which is 1914 (balanced)
Then the 4-1 exhaust (which I have)
Still deciding on the right cam
I am getting a counter weight crank but still deciding on the right stroke
Getting my heads board still deciding on what sizes valves to go with (might even stay standard)
Then 1.25:1 rockers
Then I want to go with a external oil filter and cooling system
Then while I'm at it I will put A new clutch in
New push rods and tubes
New forged cam followers and con-rods (balanced con-rods)
Fly wheel (balanced)

I am wondering if It would not be easier if I found a as-41 case and started off with that any comments on that?

Hopefully before I put every thing together I will be out of school and be able to not just work on holidays

[dubster]

Fig thats why i say built properly i.e. Correct cooling,oil flow ect,ect....the carbs will only limit your top speed i guess becuase on my 1717cc i still have te stock carb and it gives enough petrol out the line but only till like 3000rpm then i can feel it scream for more...carbs just limit your rpm but with right cam that works with those carbs it should make the power need before you hit your rev limit where the motor needs more petrol and air...its like i said building a motor is a art,it has many varibles...o and 69mm is your crank stroke if you want to straoke the crank it becomes a differant stroke eg. 74mm and with it the engine size...but i recomend staying away from stroker motor for now just have all the balancing counterweighting whatever done to the stock crank or go for n new 69mm crank like jamesd did...its always recomended that new engine builder build a 69mm motor first becuase a stroker is not easy and im sure tony z will tell you the same thing..a...

[Junior]

sounds great so I am going counter weight and balanced 69mm stroke

[dubster]

A 1915 wil have enough power to take you up the hill at 120 in 4th...the fuel thing i cant help with its is going use more petrol its logic its going to have bigger pots to fill with petrol but then agian its going to use less effort to go over hills so it will all depend on your driving style...

[Junior]

ya that cool 120 km/h i cant wait

[Junior]

can i get my carbs re jetted with bigger jets?

[dubster]

If needed once the motor is running thats when stuff like that gets adjusted...

[Junior]

what would be stoping me from puting the oil cooler at the front I know the pipes would have to be really long and you would need like double the amount of oil but it will get really cool going there and back?