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Hloni wrote:I am stuck though as to how do I remove the steering mechanism which is the last connection between body and pan. Anyone able to help? You could ring me and talk me through it tomorrow after 10am, number is zero 82 222 5443
Anybody out there? a link, a snap, a full description????
"Volkswagen customers want a relationship with their cars. Names like The Thing, Beetle, Fox, and Rabbit support this" - Kerri Martin
Hloni wrote:I am stuck though as to how do I remove the steering mechanism which is the last connection between body and pan. Anyone able to help? You could ring me and talk me through it tomorrow after 10am, number is zero 82 222 5443
Anybody out there? a link, a snap, a full description????
Hi,
Try leave the steering box on the pan with the front beam.
Leave the steering shaft on the body
Disconnect the flexible connection (Round rubber type dick) all 4 bolts, see pic.
That is after the collapsible section and before the steering box.
Take the tank out 1st, this will make it easy.....
Hope it helps
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
Right above the disk, is a C looking clamp if you loosen that and loosen off your steering wheel bolt you should be able to pull the steering shaft up and then you will be sorted.
(This is the same reply I gave to you on TheSamba)
adriaan pienaar wrote:You will need to completely remove the fuel tank from the bodyshell to get access to the steering box and coupler. The coupler is a large rubber disk that absorbs vibration from your wheels, and also allows for some flex between the steering shaft and the steering box. I believe it is also called a rag joint, as it has 'fibre' reinforcing moulded into the rubber to give it more strength and to prevent it from breaking suddenly. It is inbetween the steering box and the steering shaft. It has two metal fittings riveted together, and seperating them from the steering box and steering shaf will be difficult, especially if they were last joined in the factory. The electric wire between the metal parts is only for the earth of the horn buton (as rubber does not conduct electricity, remember )
I would suggest to cut the rubber from the coupler off with a angle grinder (be sure to wear eye protection ) It will most probably be too worn to be used again. Only cut the rubber part (the discs are easily replaceable - I bought a new one from Goldwagen two months ago), but be careful not to damage any metal parts. Cut it like a slice of polony, through the rivets. When fitting the new disk, you can simply bolt it together with high-tensile 8mm bolts and lock nuts.
If this is too much trouble, cut the steering shaft with the angle grinder at a suitable place, as you will most probably need to shorten it anyway for use in your buggy
Hloni wrote:Since l am building a lwb, would l still need to chop steering shaft? l had this vision of just simply plonking fg on pan and off l go.
The difference between a lwb and swb is towards the rear (the area behind the seat rails), the front part is exactly the same. Show a pic of the bodyshell you got?
I don't follow why you need to cut the rubber coupling - if you loosen either the top or bottom clamp bolts it just slides off the shaft?
I've done this many times, so mine comes off easily. In the beginning I've had to hammer it a bit on the bottom of that colapsible part and wedge it open to get it off.
Oh, and you need to remove the two bolts that tie the steering assembly to the body - they are inside just above the fusebox. Also remember to unplug the ignition wires. Then the whole assembly should slide off the shaft and out of the car.
May God grant you patience and not strength!
Best
Mario
Eben said: "ACVW's are made of logic."
Bugger said: "I am happy with the drum brakes when done right as this will be used rarely"
"If it can't be fixed with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem" said by someone.
Guess that, on later models the collapsible safety column of the steering shaft catches on the body, preventing it to move away from the steering box.
If no angle grinder available, one could, with plenty of patience, (not much room for movement), maybe try using a hacksaw to cut through 2 opposing bolts by slicing through the rubber part. Otherwise, cut the body part that prevents the collapsible safety column to move away from the steering box. (Assuming the body is scrap). Then, if the round clamp is loose, turn the steering wheel to help loosen the clamp (from years of rust there). Then pull shaft away from steering box.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Still don't know why cutting is advised. AFAIK, you undo the top C-clamp and the two bolts under the dash and the whole column comes out by pulling on the steering wheel. Don't forget to undo the wiring because the stalk switches and key switch come out too. The C-clamp might be a bit tight, but the column does not snag the body, it comes out in one.
) It will most probably be too worn to be used again. Only cut the rubber part (the discs are easily replaceable - I bought a new one from Goldwagen two months ago), but be careful not to damage any metal parts. Cut it like a slice of polony, through the rivets. When fitting the new disk, you can simply bolt it together with high-tensile 8mm bolts and lock nuts.
