My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
- Loopy
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
Arno, don't take that pulley/fanbelt cover out of the packaging just yet, I have one for you, might need a bit of spit and polish.
"What I would suggest is that you draw up a project plan and then prioritise the things you NEED to do linked to the budget you have." by Vader
Truer words have never been spoken...
Truer words have never been spoken...
- Loopy
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
Arno, is jy by die huis die naweek? Kan Saterdag bietjie weg glip...
"What I would suggest is that you draw up a project plan and then prioritise the things you NEED to do linked to the budget you have." by Vader
Truer words have never been spoken...
Truer words have never been spoken...
- arnocill
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
Ja ek is by die huis die naweek en sal bly wees as jy kom inlooer. ek stuur vir jou n pm.Loopy wrote:Arno, is jy by die huis die naweek? Kan Saterdag bietjie weg glip...
- arnocill
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
At last i got my cylinder heads back from the engineering shop. So the last two nights i was busy for a change.

The aluminium cooling fins on the sleeves

The empi intake manifold for the progressive weber needed a little grinding at the bottom to clear the crankcase. I also needed a spacer of about 16mm for the 32/36 DGV to clear the alternator. I think a 36 DCD might fit without the spacer but since i had the DGV i,m using it
This is where i had to grind the intake


I dont want to use the heat risers on the intake since i am trying to achieve a clean look on the engine. Tomorrow i will try a mod on the intake to heat it up. I will post if i am succesfull.




The aluminium cooling fins on the sleeves

The empi intake manifold for the progressive weber needed a little grinding at the bottom to clear the crankcase. I also needed a spacer of about 16mm for the 32/36 DGV to clear the alternator. I think a 36 DCD might fit without the spacer but since i had the DGV i,m using it
This is where i had to grind the intake


I dont want to use the heat risers on the intake since i am trying to achieve a clean look on the engine. Tomorrow i will try a mod on the intake to heat it up. I will post if i am succesfull.
Jy maak mens nuuskierig oor die kleur...
The color that i'm using for the buggy is called intense blue and it's a nissan color. This is what it looks like on the motor under artificial light it change in sunlightal wat ek kan se is dis INTENS.



- Loopy
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
Dit lyk stunning!
"What I would suggest is that you draw up a project plan and then prioritise the things you NEED to do linked to the budget you have." by Vader
Truer words have never been spoken...
Truer words have never been spoken...
- arnocill
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
To heat up the intake manifold i'll be using a 12v element in place of the heat risers ( a friends idea). The element is from a 12v/220/gas fridge, it seems like this element were made to fit into the intake.






- Edmond
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
Your engine looks stunning.
Btw those are called biral cylinders they have the aluminium fin part shrunk over a cast iron sleeve really old school.
Btw those are called biral cylinders they have the aluminium fin part shrunk over a cast iron sleeve really old school.
- arnocill
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
Edmond wrote:Your engine looks stunning.
Btw those are called biral cylinders they have the aluminium fin part shrunk over a cast iron sleeve really old school.
Thanks Edmond, I did a search on the kit right after i bought it and did see something about biral but i did not know that before. The empi/mahle cylinders are not shrunk but cast over the cast iron, aparently there were another make that had the aluminium fins shrunk on and there were lots of problems with fins coming loose. They say the mahle ones were a bit better but the aluminium did'nt really made it run cooler.
My kit got the full skirt pistons but you also got this kit with a slipper skirt that were used for racing. Both the full and slipper skirt pistons are forged.
- arnocill
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
I made a alluminium bracket and had it welded to the intake so the intake can be bolted to the crankcase the same way as the standard intake. Don't know what empi was thinking when they designed it, cause there's know way the rubbers can hold the intake in place. (probably why somebody returned the intake to FFR before i bought it) This is no straight forward bolt on conversion as one would imagine it to be.






- arnocill
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
Last week after waiting more than a month for new stock, i finally got the 4 into 1 tnt exhaust from FFR. Took it in for coating and got it back today.


Now theres not much more to be done on the engine, so i should probably carry on with the rest of the buggy for a change.


Now theres not much more to be done on the engine, so i should probably carry on with the rest of the buggy for a change.
- Loopy
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
Looking good! Where did you get the coating done?
"What I would suggest is that you draw up a project plan and then prioritise the things you NEED to do linked to the budget you have." by Vader
Truer words have never been spoken...
Truer words have never been spoken...
- arnocill
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
Powerkote in Montague Gardens, i think they are the only place around Cape Town that do ceramic coatings
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Re: My beamish buggy rebuild & mod's
This is going to be a looker as I look at the effort you are putting in to the Project