Aircooled VW South Africa

Very interesting. So many things one could do with these nice machines. Like fitting a wbx crank in a type 1 case. (Thrust bearing cut to type 4 size, oil seal also type 4 size, other 3 bearings remain type 1 size.) Although finding bearings may be a problem. One would then also use wbx or type 4 flywheel.

Or doing an "oxyboxer", using wbx case and cut off water jackets.
Or machining for twin spark heads to have improved fuel efficiency, (as a higher compression ratio could then be used with the same knock sensitivity as before...)

Tony Z wrote: ↑Fri Mar 31, 2017 5:30 pm Not much more progress made.
Wasted a few hours driving to all the spares shops who usually have bearings and spent ages phoning around to the guys who might have bearings. Needless to say that the size I need isnt available in SA from any of the local guys. So, I've got a set on its way from USA.

wrong size buggyfan, thanks though.
Need 60thou over on the case and std on the crank.

Went to a shop in Mooi str Jhb and they had all different sizes O.d /i.d bearings.Mostly smagon brand.According to the guy behind the till he can get any size fot tipe1 aswell as tipe4 engines.They supply Bruce in Horizon that does the line-boring with all his parts.

Details
Swag n tail V.W motor spares .011 3345973/0113341470
Jerome 0721269990

Thanks for giving the details


72 - Freddie Booysen
72 Bay - unnamed WIP
72 D/C - Blue abomination!
74 Beetle - BEE

Not much has happened recently.
I finally got my bearings out of the post office. It took 4 days from buying it in USA (online) for it to arrive in SA. It then spent a week in JHB, before it took 8 days to get to CPT and then another 6 days in customs before I decided to go to the CPT depot and ask where it was. The guys then did me the favour of quickly pushing it through customs and handing it to me.
4 days from California to JHB, 3 weeks from JHB to CPT and still not complete. Last time I think that using the PO is a good idea.
At least the POW's are helpful.
Thats post office workers to those who dont know...

I have now done the head work and assembled them. I am using stock valves with a bit of porting. I didnt spend too much time on the ports, but I did spend a lot of time on the seats and chambers.
I also cut in a set of Singh grooves. Different layout to what I did for Wentzel, but I think this will work fine for me.

Chambers


Springs, retainers and collets


Valve shims


I set the valves up so that they have 3mm more compression available before they coil bind.


Now a rant.
Back in about 2002 I bought a set of new Autolinea G01 heads. These heads were fantastic.
So, last year I bought another set. Be warned, the new G01 castings are truely crap.

All 4 combustion chambers are different out of the box, with a 4cc difference from largest to smallest.
The seats are all installed at different heights, even on the same head. And its not like intakes are at 1 height and exhausts at a different - they are all different.
Its just piss poor quality.
Maybe next time I should try a set of Chinese heads - they cant be much worse than these.

Anyway, the heads are done and will be installed. Hopefully they'll do what I want them to do, if not, then I'll have to pull them out and work them further.

Nice work there Tony

Is it getting a Twin 34 ICT or are you going for the Doubles again.

Herman

IDFs.
I've sold the ICT's

I have serious tool envy, when I read this post. What a pleasure to be able to do all the work yourself. Good job Tony, it should be running soon!

Sorry to hear about the heads Tony. I thought Autolinea was very high quality and their casings is also the better option?

You will be able to test the grooves first my engine won't be running soon so please let me know how you find it.

Wentzel wrote: ↑Sun Apr 23, 2017 8:05 am Sorry to hear about the heads Tony. I thought Autolinea was very high quality and their casings is also the better option?

You will be able to test the grooves first my engine won't be running soon so please let me know how you find it.

I'll have the engine running before yours, but I dont have a "before grooves" baseline to compare it to. I've never built this spec engine before.

Watching this thread with hawk eyes.
Well done Tony.

OK, finally got a gap to make some progress again.

I hate clearancing a case for a long stroke crank... Anyway, its done now...


Then I moved onto some more mocking up. Not gonna go into all the nitty gritty of what needs to be checked, but lets just say that its everything.

When pulling the pistons out of the liners to measure these all up, I noticed a hole in the one new liner... yay



The best part is that these are imported... so getting a replacement is going to be a PITA.
Good thing I had a spare set on the shelf, I'll deal with warrantee later, for now, I'll keep on with the project.

Checking deckheight to calculate the shim sizes that I need


and thats it... not much progress, even though thats another 20hours labour on this post alone...
OK, there was more done than I wrote about...

Tony Z wrote: ↑Sun May 07, 2017 7:17 pm ....., I noticed a hole in the one new liner... yay....

I Know you are a Perfectionist,

But as the OLD TOPPY's always said,

The more pitted the barrel, the longer it will last, as long as the hole is not through the cylinder, it will fill with oil and serve as a cheap lubricator.

I was always told that the cylinder block must lay in the weather for 3 weeks before you build the engine after machining.

Just a quick hone and in with the pistons......

Just some useless information,

Nice work, keep us posted.

Herman

Good progress there Tony.

Pity about the cylinder setback. Just sad that QC seems to be nonexistent these days. New parts can't even be trusted. Everything has to be checked properly, and you end up doing the factory QC, which adds time and cost to a build.

Like the engine stand