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Re: Rims
Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 1:49 pm
by Surge
ZeroAxe wrote:Have you actually tried working WITH one of the existing holes? I am sure that is how it is done, seeing that the PCD you want to use is the same!
You know that thought never crossed my mind!

Tony may still be right about the holes being too close to each other but then again a bug isn't that heavy and if the metal used was a decent grade like EN8 or better it should work just fine.
Re: Rims
Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 2:48 pm
by Tony Z
nice one.
With the right program thats not too hard to do, so can I ask you to make another one, this time with 14mm holes. My hubs were made with 12mm holes, so the thread cuts in 14 or 15mm depending on the thread pitch.

Re: Rims
Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 3:29 pm
by Surge
Tony Z wrote:nice one.
With the right program thats not too hard to do, so can I ask you to make another one, this time with 14mm holes. My hubs were made with 12mm holes, so the thread cuts in 14 or 15mm depending on the thread pitch.

Here you go.
M14 x 2.0 (normal pitch)
Re: Rims
Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 4:01 pm
by ZeroAxe
Be careful now! I might be asking the same favor in the near future!

Dog Gamn! I wish that I continued with AutoCAD when I got out of school! Unfortunately at that time there was not much work for Draughtsmen. And now there seems not to be enough. I learned on the first version of AutoCAD and forgot about everything I learned. I even started to loose touch with the best subject I had at school. (almost) straight A's EACH time, Mechanical Drawing..... And now I just dont have the time to learn the software(I got AutoCAD 2008 here on CD!!!). Argh well, that's the way the Christmas Pudding crumbles

Re: Rims
Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 5:15 pm
by Tony Z
I guess I'll need to do some experimenting with 8mm mild steel to see how strong it is with that 1.5mm tapped gap
Re: Rims
Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 5:44 pm
by Surge
Tony Z wrote:I guess I'll need to do some experimenting with 8mm mild steel to see how strong it is with that 1.5mm tapped gap
Mild is really soft.
If the end product is done in a medium carbon steel like EN8 then it'll probably be more than strong enough. EN8 is cheap, still soft enough to machine nicely but will take several times the punishment of mild steel.
The critical part is the shear strength when hitting objects on the road and I doubt it would do anything since the tyres and suspension absorb most of the impact anyway. If you had a solid mount suspension for drag racing then it may be more critical.
Wheel hubs are really over designed and one could get away with using only two wheel nuts to hold the wheel on most of the time.
My opinion ...
Re: Rims
Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 5:51 pm
by Tony Z
Totally true
My thinking behind the mild steel is that if it will support 150Nm (the stock tyre bolt torque is 100Nm) with two holes so close together, the EN8 will def not split. Then again, if EN8 is cheap enough, I may as well use that. I'll be able to check this out (if I remember) in Feb
The best opion will be press in studs or bolts which bold into the hub, using loctite to hold then in place.
Re: Rims
Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 2:04 pm
by Bugger
Just phone Grant at Cilinder reman and ask for a set of hubs 5x100
0114935995 buy the VR6 disc and walla
I have seen alot of Golf 1 `s redrilled to 5x100 and using to one hole and my one friend had it like that and actually had no structural failure the entire time he had his VR6 rims on his MK1 with a turbo motor
Just do not drill the disc buy the VR6 one and get the spacer to move the caliper out wards for the bigger disc from Ivan at Volkspares
Re: Rims
Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:20 pm
by Surge
Bugger wrote:Just phone Grant at Cilinder reman and ask for a set of hubs 5x100
0114935995 buy the VR6 disc and walla
I have seen alot of Golf 1 `s redrilled to 5x100 and using to one hole and my one friend had it like that and actually had no structural failure the entire time he had his VR6 rims on his MK1 with a turbo motor
Just do not drill the disc buy the VR6 one and get the spacer to move the caliper out wards for the bigger disc from Ivan at Volkspares
Will the normal Golf Mk 1/2 calipers still work on the VR6 discs? Are the discs the same thickness?
Re: Rims
Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 9:00 am
by brianj
Re: Rims
Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 9:01 am
by brianj
Re: Rims
Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 10:08 am
by Bugger
Surge wrote:Bugger wrote:Just phone Grant at Cilinder reman and ask for a set of hubs 5x100
0114935995 buy the VR6 disc and walla
I have seen alot of Golf 1 `s redrilled to 5x100 and using to one hole and my one friend had it like that and actually had no structural failure the entire time he had his VR6 rims on his MK1 with a turbo motor
Just do not drill the disc buy the VR6 one and get the spacer to move the caliper out wards for the bigger disc from Ivan at Volkspares
Will the normal Golf Mk 1/2 calipers still work on the VR6 discs? Are the discs the same thickness?
As mentioned you need the spacing adapter for the calipers but you need to buy ventilated brake pads for the VR6 discs due to the fact its vented and the calipers stay the same
