Aircooled VW South Africa

Yes Tom!

Problem solved though. No oil in gearbox. Last mechanic for got to but in an oil seal. Arse!

So it will be on stands another few days.

RICKY-R69 wrote:Does DD ever get time to work on aircooleds?

Ricky, I believe in leaving to the experts

Although I'm currently half way through rebuilding Bobbie's original engine as we ran out of time. Also have ordered the rack steering and front discs for Mo who arrives at the house on Tuesday and I'm fitting that with pics for everyone!

Can the electronic ignition coil from a WBX be used on a normal contact breaker system??

why is it that fumes enter the beetle when a window is open.I dont understand i mean the pressure is different.High to a low pressure correct?There are also no holes in the back except the gearbox inspection plate under the rear seat.i closed this up and still fumes enter when driving with the side window open.But when the windows are closed vavoo no fumes

If I may hazard a guess, you have a fuel leak at the tank, or an ill-fitting/perished seal on the filler cap.
The fumes are entering from the front of the car, not the rear then.

Im with Karma on this.

actually its not petrol fumes but exhaust fumes..co2 I also dont understand

can some one please tell me what this is.I am in deperate need of this part as the one on my bug is shorter than the other which makes the beetle lean to one side

That is part of the anti roll bar on the suspension and is not supposed to make the bug lean to a side unless it is totally fitted wrong
Reason for leaning might be some one lowerd the bug before and did not get the splines correct both sides

you are right.I disconnected the z bars downlink and still the bug tilts.Ishould get someone to check and realign the height again..

How is it that some days i ride then brakes work perfect,and other days the brakes are dont get it there are no leaks.Can the master cylinder do this mean today i nearly crashed into a taxi as the brakes failed.If it was not for the handbrake i would have been a human pinhead.

I checked the brake reservoir and it was bloody empty.It took 2 months to go dry but still no air leaks.

Also i have this 1600 twin port engine in and it is really loud at exhaust.The 4 branch into one is bloody loud when i drive....can the sound be lowered by some cheap means.A cop gave me a fine for this..bloody%$^&%%^^$@@$ stupid man.

I was wondering... All the slammed bus afficionado's might be able to tell me... How do you take the rear wheels off on a straight axle split which runs on 0 camber, i.e. it's lowered.

I have a tough time with Gill's bus, to get it past those cute straight tops on the wheel arches. They're not so f---ing cute when you're trying to wrestle a tyre in or out of there.

On a straight axle conversion you don't have the reduction boxes(obviously).It gives you a couple of extra centimeters clearance.

Think the straight-axle conversion uses axles from a beetle, so the rear track is... more narrow. This leaves more space to remove the wheels, unless spacers are fitted. If spacers are used with long bolts, (not studs), then i imagine it would be possible to remove the wheels downwards complete with spacers.
(Is the narrow look track becoming fashion nowadays, those narrowed front beams make cars look like Farmall tractors.) ( And maybe handle like them as well?).

Not so sure about the long-term strength of a beetle axle in a heavy bus. Although it seems the US and GB people have'nt had trouble.

No, the lack of reduction boxes does not give more space because the wheels catch on the drum, not the box.

No the wheelbase after a straight axle conversion is the same because you use long shafts and extended axle tubes.

The question thus remains...