Fuel injection rebuild

[Simmy]

Other head now complete, but waiting on shims before I start with checking the geometry again. Hopefully will get the custom laser cut shims this week.



After that though, I think I can send parts off for final balancing and ceramic coating before assembly? Unless I am much mistaken, I don't think there is anything else internally which needs checking. As a recap, this is what's been done:

• Case has been mic'd, and cleaned up with the Dremel.
• Case plugs removed, threaded and prepped for full-flow set-up.
• Extended sump trial fitted and oil pickup tube prepped
• Bearings fitted and aligned with oil holes
• Heads CC'd and ported
• Valves lapped
• Geometry set on valves (almost)
• Deck height set
• Cylinders lapped into heads and case
• Cam and bearings fitted and degreed within 0.5deg
• Oil pump blue printed and trial fitted with cam
• Flywheel end play checked
• Distributor drive fitted and shimmed

I realise I still have all the tinwork to do, but will start that whilst the internals are at the various shops.

[Simmy]

Oh... and I need to get a thermostat and flaps. They were removed from the engine before, and I no longer have them. I know Volkspares has a few flaps, but they cant source the thermostats anymore. Anyone solved this before?

[Tony Z]

You wont find a German thermostat anywhere.
I know of 2 new ones and I think I know of someone with a few spares, but trust me, none of these are for sale.
you can still get mexican thermostats, but those close when they fail, and cook the engine to death (the german ones open when they fail).

Have you tapped your pump and oil gallery to close them off for the full flow?

[Simmy]

For something that no one wants, they are indeed hard to find. I am aware of the limitations of the Mexican type, but if there is no other way then I might just have to tolerate it.

I think they are making NOS thermostats at Awesome Powder coat, but then it's another import. They look decent, so if that's the best route, then so be it.

I have plugged both the pump body and case for the full flow system. Just need to modify the tinware to clear the return line.

[fourier]

Oh... and I need to get a thermostat and flaps. They were removed from the engine before, and I no longer have them. I know Volkspares has a few flaps, but they cant source the thermostats anymore. Anyone solved this before?

Quite ironic how these thermostats were seen as unnecessary, and often removed from engines. Now more and more builders are restoring the cooling system to the way it was designed to function.

It has become very difficult to find thermostats in decent shape. I would rather look for a good, used, original item, instead of going the Mexico route. Just test the thermostat prior to installation. Heat it in a pot of water on the stove, and monitor temperature increase. At 65-70 degrees, it should measure 46mm (inside measurement of the bracket).

I was lucky enough to buy a NOS thermostat recently, but decided to install the old one that came off the engine I am rebuilding, after a successful test. I will keep the NOS item as a spare.





Installed...

[Riaan.N]

For my education what is the purpose of the thermostat?

[Simmy]

It's there to actuate a set of cooling flaps that should be located within the fan housing. It seems a lot of people leave them off thinking that they aren't required in warmer climates. However, they are important for regulating airflow to the heads to ensure that they get to operating temp as quickly as possible and then stay there. Leaving them off means increased wear whilst warming up... Apparently up to 15% more according to Gene Berg.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Thermostats.html
http://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/thermo ... built.html

[Riaan.N]

It's there to actuate a set of cooling flaps that should be located within the fan housing. It seems a lot of people leave them off thinking that they aren't required in warmer climates. However, they are important for regulating airflow to the heads to ensure that they get to operating temp as quickly as possible and then stay there. Leaving them off means increased wear whilst warming up... Apparently up to 15% more according to Gene Berg.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Thermostats.html
http://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/thermo ... built.html

Thanks Simmy

[Simmy]

Hi again to everyone following this lot!
Sorry its been a while. I have been occupied with a lot of home maintenance over the last month which didn't leave much time for the car.

But I have been busy on and off and will be posting some pics this evening! So this is what has happened since I last posted:

• Had the crank/fly/clutch/pulley/gear assembly balanced as a unit to < 0.25g . Previously it was all individually balanced without the pressure plate.
• Got the fan checked and balanced for good measure - so, now any wobble is a result of a bent shaft or bad spacer.
• Got some redline assembly lube for later
• Found a thermostat assembly and working thermostat at Volkspares (barring the linkage which I will need to make up)! Its calibrated for 65-70deg, but I haven't tested how accurate it is after many years of use/neglect. The fact is that it is now clean and not broken. I am going to work on refurbing the flaps since I find that they can get stuck given the amount of play which is available. I want to try press out the brass bushes and make up some new ones which will hold it all together and take up some of the slop.
• Also found a Hoover bit in the same pile of "trash".
• Dropped off the exhaust for fabrication of some J-tubes and addition of the lambda sensor bung.

Unfortunately I am still struggling to find someone who will laser cut a handful of shims for me, but I hope to get some positive feedback later this week on the matter.

[Tony Z]

what shims do you need lazer cut?

[Simmy]

Barrel shims. Got hold of Budget Engineering after the 3rd try and they are responding now.

And pics as promised...

Tried to separate flap from shaft, but it's difficult to not destroy the flap in the process. I want to do this in order to put some spacers in to keep the flap centred... It catches sometimes if it pulls to one side.

[Tony Z]

I’ve got 90.5 shims if you need. Not sure what sizes but I did see at least 1 pack yesterday when I was looking for something else

[Simmy]

Thanks, but I am looking for 0.1-0.15mm, and they usually only come in sizes twice that thick. But I seem to have made some headway. Budget can and will cut them at a price. Having a couple made in case I bend them or need extras.

[Tony Z]

What deckheight have you got and what are you aiming for?

[Simmy]

If memory serves, it's 1.35 on the 1-2 side and 1.25 on the 3-4 side. I realise I am splitting hairs a little, but with no3 running hot and being on the tight side, and not wanting to sacrifice more compression than I have to, it just made sense to fix it.