Aircooled VW South Africa

As a test, fit steering wheel onto "outer shaft" minus inner shaft.

Steering wheel has a sleeve at the back, which fits inside a bush on outer shaft. On my oval, even the paint from spraying the steering wheel messed up this clearance. Is that minor oxidation/rust i see on outer of steering wheel's sleeve? You can carefully sand this down to clean metal using fine grit sandpaper. Keeping in mind we do'nt want more clearance than absolutely necessary. Sand in circular direction and not up/down. Inspect bush in "outer shaft". Use grease to lubricate.

Thanks guys !
Dawie the steering wheel is rusty at the sleeve. The outer shaft does have a bush in it, it seems like a bakelite bush with rubber between it and the shaft.

Any feedback on the steering shaft that connects on the steering box which has a bend in it ?

Been messing with carbs a lot lately and really want to use the Solex 40 pII-4 solid shafts on the beetle. Biggest concern so far was jets and availability of parts. So my dad messed about yesterday and made two jets using a brass pin from a three pin plug.
This is the 1.8 idling jet air bleed he made. Didn't take him long to make two of these. So if it is easy to manufacture out of plug pieces why are they so scarce / expensive ? Am I missing something ?

Awesome,

Thats a good question Donovan - and they cost the earth new for us buggers on this side of the pond - perhaps a little sideline for him ?

Nicely done
the problem is that your 180 jet wont flow anywhere near a calibrated 180 jet. Jets usually have entry and exit shapes to improve their efficiency.
Look into orifice shapes and efficiencies.



If every jet you intend to use is made the same then it should be OK, but the minute you want to reference to someone else's jetting or buy jets, then you wont be able to go by the ones you made.

Tony Z wrote: Look into orifice shapes and efficiencies.

Not googling that at work

Ok so if I were to make 4 of these and use them that would be OK but they won't be as efficient as real 180's, or I'd probably need to make them another size to equal out the differences between them and the real 180's.

So how does resizing/drilling jets work ? Does that not interfere with the entry and exit points of the jet or would you not drill that big to interfere with it?

Donovan D wrote:
Ok so if I were to make 4 of these and use them that would be OK but they won't be as efficient as real 180's, or I'd probably need to make them another size to equal out the differences between them and the real 180's.

So how does resizing/drilling jets work ? Does that not interfere with the entry and exit points of the jet or would you not drill that big to interfere with it?

As long as you keep yours the same then they will work together.
resizing jets does work because the shape of the entry/exit is a fair bit larger than the jet. But still, a new or original size is better than a reamed jet. Once again, use 4 resized/reamed jets as a set instead of 2 originals and 2 reamed.

Totally agree with Tony.

To help you get closer to std jets, have a look at the original ones in your carb.

you will notice a chamfer on the entry and normally a tapper to the back (outlet side)

If you copy this profile you will have a better performing jet and the atomisation will be more to the carb spec.

If you make all your jets in the same way, there ratios will be as per original, even if the volume is not.

So that means your mixture will be correct.

Herman

Cool thanks for all the info.
Lastly I see that a lot of people do say that the numbers on the jet are not actual drill size in mm but stamped according to flow rate. I don't have the gauges to check this, would this be true on all carb makes ?

I stand under correction here, but I think the jet size, 180 for example is based upon a "perfect" orifice with a nominal size of 180. That is a 1.8mm hole with no losses at entry, exit or in the tube itself.
You use the jet gauge to figure out what size it is - 1.8mm is 1.8mm
When drilling a jet you get small losses - so for example, drilling a 170 to a 180 you will end up with a 180 hole but it might flow closer to a 178. So in this case its a 180 jet when you measure it but it flows as if it were a 178. Thus stamping it 180 wont be accurate because it measure 180 but it doesnt flow 180 - if you get my meaning.
Your 180's will probably flow somewhere between a 140 and a 160 at a guess.
And one more thing... drills very seldomly run properly true. Thats why you need to ream your jets. But who has money for 30 different reamers? If I broke one of my jet drills, I wouldnt even consider sharpening it and reusing it as a jet drill, it would go straight into my general drill sets and I'd buy a replacement to keep it as close as I can to accurate.

Donovan D wrote:...complete wiper assembly for the beetle if anyone can help please give a shout.

I'm still after a complete wiper motor assembly for the oval. Anyone ?

What does a oval wiper motor look like

hitlers revenge wrote:What does a oval wiper motor look like

do you want the whole mechanism?