Aircooled VW South Africa

Fully welded. This is quite hard to get into to finish the weld, so there will be a dab of filler needed Finished look - I'm quite stoked with this!

Barry, you and I need to talk about my Berry Mini T. I don't like the rear end on that buggy and was thinking of a rear end like a T14, but since then I have found out what you can do.

I am really impressed, it's like watching the early episodes of American Chopper, when they still used to build bikes, instead of going on and on about their trips to the f@&ing dentist or tattoo parlour.

Awesome! I really need to get myself a MIG welder and start playing!

F@K My!!!! BARRRRRYYYYYYYYYYYYY, I am so jelous!!! Dude, I think we are brothers from different mothers That is exactly how my head works. I think about the same things.... If I was still in SA, in Gauteng, I know where I would've moved to by now....

I am having a survey done for 3 phase next week.... MY house had it in the past, so the cables should still be there. Once that is sorted, I am looking to get some extra tools. 'n Draaibank, TIG welder and a BIGGER plasma cutter(the current one doesnt cut it..... Bwahahaha!!! "cut it".... I am killing myself ) Unfortunately selling my bike had to 'pay' for this.... But one cant have EVERYTHING, right?

Ron&Gill, That is why I prefer 'Biker Build-off". Because they FABRICATE parts, not bolt them together(although, that is all we CAN watch, bike-related)...

Barry, I hope you are making notes and calculating costs, I have a feeling you might be selling a couple of these if you're not careful!

Think they might work out a little expensive Karma.......

So I am busy with the bootlid.
Made up most of the inner structure - there will be some more bracing, but putting it in now will make it a little more difficult to check the shape of the skin. I spent most of the morning trying to tweak the shape of the half of the skin I made before throwing it down and jumping on it.......................................................................(OK I held off on the jumping!!!!!) Once again I am remeinded that it generally takes about 10 times as long to take shape out as it does to put it in. There is an area near the bottom left corner that bulges too much. Without an Eckold shrinking machine (Only about R300K+ ) it is pretty difficult to shrink the area back down. Stretching the areas around it - which should theoretically have the same effect leads to all kinds of other issues.
I'm going to start again from scratch - should be quicker.....

On this subject - I hadn't planned on putting any louvres or vents in the lid. Any advice / opinions on cooling issues that I may have?
If needed will I be able to pull enough air in by putting vents in the wheel wells?


Barry
If

Good work Barry
Problem with vent in the wheel wells is that you will have all sorts of crap making its way into the engine bay. Think of the effects of driving thru a mud puddle full of leafs.

What about heat shrinking?.Heat up the area,and quickly cool it down.

Won't air intakes that is made where the rear seat use to be work?That way you can keep the shape but make air ducts to the fan will be under the body work.

Barry, I am sure you know of this tool, but I thought I would mention it anyway.

Thought of adding a shrinking hammer to your toolset(if you dont have already)? Almost link in the pic below....


The difference is in the head of the hammer. Everytime you hit, the head 'spins'. The principle works like an impact screwdriver. Unfortunately I cant find a picture of it now.

The other option is a shrinking disc. Like this:




Personally, I havent used the disc yet, but aparently it works wonders.....
This is not the video I was looking for, but it gives you an idea


Hope this helps.


Loving the way it is turning out. Hope you took loads of pics of the build. Because I think once it is done, it deserves to be in a Mag!!!

Thanks for the replies guys.
Without the expensive mechanical methods, heat is pretty much the only way to shrink deep inboard on a fairly low crown panel. (on something more crowned you can actually knock a dent in and then work the dent out from the rear - working all the way around you can actually get more shrink than any stretch caused when puttting the dent in)
Torch shrinking is the old way, which is pretty quick, but not too controllable (not for me anyway).
The shrinking disc is really the way to go and that is what I have been doing - it is basically just a stainless disc spinning on a grinder - friction heats up the high spots which then shrink on cooling. It is very controllable, but slow. It is really also more of a metalfinishing tool than a shaping tool because of this. (BTW I spent some time with the guy who put the smooth disc on the map (and also the founder of Metalmeet.com), Wray Schelin earlier this year. He sells an excellent DVD on how to use the shrinking disc - search his name on Ebay if interested)

The problem I was having is that the shrinking process was very slow where I needed it to happen, and after all the previous shaping the metal is quite "upset". This often starts to cause all sorts of issues in other areas as the stresses and tension in the panel looks for somewhere to go. This condition can be helped by planishing or wheeling the entire panel (which of course causes some stretching again!!) As far as mild steel goes you can pretty much work it infinitely, as long as you do things to allow the metal too "relax" (apparently this realigns the slip planes at an atomic level - there is a guy called Fay Butler who spends almost a day on his three day seminar teaching this and other theory............check out the Motorcycle Mania series - Jesse James thinks he is God )

The thing is I think there will be more time involved "fixing" this panel than making another one from scratch. I'll have a go at the other side first and try to use a different approach with that one. I'll let you know how it goes.

BTW Zero (or anyone else) don't waste your time & money with the "shrinking hammer" - they simply don't work. Both the one like a meat tenderiser, and the one that twist and supposedly "gathers up the metal" do an excellent job of putting marks in your panel and not much more.

As to the cooling issue - how much air is needed? In stock configuration there is no ducting to the fan on the shroud right? I assume that whatever is sucked down from the vents is enough?
I was thinking if more air is needed than what will come in from below, I do have the option of using the heater tubes to bring air from the front (or even from under the back seat if noise isn't an issue - which it shouldn't be in a roadster )
The engine compartment is a LOT bigger than stock, and I will be making up the plates to isolat upper and lower sections.
Just wondering if I should go to a lot of effort now, or fix it if & when it becomes an issue.

Chris - I will be retaining the back seat, or though I do plan to build a removable cover later.
Tony, does anyone actually drive their cars in the rain?????
Yeah if I went that route there would be all sorts of issues, and they would all result in rust trap areas too.....

I am not taking nearly enough pics, and the ones I am getting are all low res anyway.

Thanks
Barry

Barry wrote:Thanks for the replies guys.

You are very Talented man Barry hope to meet you in George if you are going again


As to the cooling issue - how much air is needed? In stock configuration there is no ducting to the fan on the shroud right? I assume that whatever is sucked down from the vents is enough?
I was thinking if more air is needed than what will come in from below, I do have the option of using the heater tubes to bring air from the front (or even from under the back seat if noise isn't an issue - which it shouldn't be in a roadster )
The engine compartment is a LOT bigger than stock, and I will be making up the plates to isolat upper and lower sections.
Just wondering if I should go to a lot of effort now, or fix it if & when it becomes an issue.


The 1 st important thing is your Isolating plates you are going to make up sealing the Exhaust heat from the Cooling fan
By constructing intakes under the wheel well does create problems as Tony has mentioned but by fitting a very fine mesh you keep out the leaves
Remember that when the car in in motion the wheel creates a wind "Turbine" forcing some wind to the front of the mudguard and most of them to the back of the fender Where I had 2 oilcoolers before for cooling my one Rotary

I battled to keep the oil temp down and had them under the dicy seat above the tranny with a scoop with not to much luck.Then muved them to inside the fenders just behind the back wheel and had a signifacance drop in oil temp .
What my one Friend once did was to fit also a fine mech in the front of the back fender with a duct and painted it the same colour as the bug, and you could not even see the air intake unless you were close to the bug. this was to force air through the Intercooler but I think you would need at least both sides
The other option also is to fit a Dry sump System for cooling the oil and by having say a 10 L oil tank, and a small oil cooler and having this much oil in circulation Imediately the motor runs cooler and alot of your cooling problems is sorted .I am not saying you do not need air for the motor but now you can use much smaller and not Eyesore intakes.



Chris - I will be retaining the back seat, or though I do plan to build a removable cover later.
Tony, does anyone actually drive their cars in the
rain?????
Yeah if I went that route there would be all sorts of issues, and they would all result in rust trap areas too.....

I was cought last night with out a roof and you must just keep going then you will be semi dry by the time you get home


I am not taking nearly enough pics, and the ones I am getting are all low res anyway.

Thanks
Barry

Hope that will give you some food for thought
If you need a Dry sump pump I can get them for a good price

Pierre

Thanks Pierre - the dry sump does sound like an option if cooling does become an issue.
I do think I will probably look at ways to bring fresh air to the fan without it being visible first though.
Since I'm not really thinking of any power upgrades (at the moment anyway ) hopefully that will be enough.

I do have the option of punching some hotrod style louvres in the lid, although the dies I have are a bit worn and would need some tuning first. Thing is given how much I've battled with the skin I wouldn't want to "experiment" on it. I also think a smooth bootlid will suit the style better.

I am really hoping to have the car in George, but it does seem less & less likely given that I also need to do some work that actually pays soon too I will be there though - with or without the car.......

Barry

Hey Barry,

Awsome work man... u make us South Africans proud... no matter the outcome, im sure it would b better than we would think..
BTW, do you actually have a day job???

Enjoy George..and keep those pic comming ok..

Shot

Thanks man! I do have a day job, but our factory shuts down over Christmas, so I have had a bit of time. Been goofing off a little this last week though, but should have some more updates soon.

Barry

PS - car won't be done in time for George though

!!!!!BIG UP TO U!!!!!!!

that is some really neat shit u got goin on! well done!!
not just any1 can pull that shit off!! really looking forward to the end product!!!