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Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:18 am
by Fauxmechanic
Sorry to ask what is probably a stupid question, but what shocks exactly do I ask for? I assume they come in different stiffnesses/lengths etc? Just regular beetle shocks?

I had actually been wondering how to tell if I needed new shocks... I sorta just guessed I did, since they follow the "whatever was lying around in the garage" theme that the entire buggy seems to have been built to.

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:27 am
by Ron&Gill
By the time you're wondering if you need new shocks, you do. You can't tell the normal way on a buggy, it's too light (I'm told). Yours look pretty old... Standard Beetle shocks, unless you want to upgrade, that's a whole different ball game with it's pitfalls.

I have, for example, coil over springs on my rear shocks on my bug, which makes the rear suspension adjustable for when I tow the trailer, but that places the shock under tension and to get the right ride height when not towing, the rear suspension needs to be adjusted, the torsion bar. That's on my to-do list for next week...

I suggest to keep it simple for now, get used to it first and get it on your name. Has Floris phoned yet?

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:58 am
by Fauxmechanic
Thanks, I will definitely stick with the simple way for now then.

Floris hasnt called yet... although I have been staying in noordhoek, and the cell signal is shocking. Its back to work tomorrow though :( so I'll be easily contactable via cell or email.

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 6:12 am
by Ron&Gill
I'm home on Thursday, so I'll twist his arm... He'll be popping in for a drinky-pooh I'm sure. I have your number, so I'll ring to check. Cheers. Enjoy work, I've got a month off now, glug-glug... I haven't tasted a beer for 4 weeks...

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:10 am
by Fauxmechanic
Thanks, that'll be great. Enjoy that first beer, it'll be a good one :D

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:30 am
by hitlers revenge
Floris only arived back from the 2500km buggy trip yesterday and after having a blowout, on the home straight, on the buggies back tyre at +/- 100 kph, he might not want to talk buggies for a day or 2.

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:40 am
by Fauxmechanic
:shock: fair enough!

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 11:25 am
by Chris
PM me the number and your cell number.I will check it for you.

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 12:48 pm
by Fauxmechanic
Well, Im back, with yet more questions. This should really be a project thread, but anyways.

The seals at the ends of the rear axles are leaking like crazy again, after having replaced them about 6 months ago. The oily drums mean my braking power is... reduced, to say the least.

Anyways, I know that I need to replace the bearings on the one side, so I may as well do both while Im at the seals. HR suggested using sealed bearings. What size do I ask for? I assume I can just ask for standard beetle size, but taking that lot apart is not a job I want to have to do a 3rd time :?

Finally, is there anything else I will need? other than the seals, gaskets and bearings? Should I use any sealer/gasket maker on the gaskets?

Thanks for bearing with the questions :D

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 12:51 pm
by Fauxmechanic
Oh, and I forgot, I also need to replace the axle boots. Anything special I need to know about that? Will oil gush out the gearbox when I take them off?

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 1:05 pm
by Pine
If your axle boots are cracked or torn, chances are that there will be no oil to gush out... If not, take the wheel off on one side at a time, support the buggy on an axle stand, and jack the wheel up so that the angle of the driveshaft points upward (be careful not to lift the buggy off the stand). With the driveshaft angled upwards, you should have the least oil spillage, although it is still a messy job. Remember to turn the 'seam' of the axle boot at an angle (between 10 and eleven 'o clock on the right wheel, and between 1 and 2 o'clock on the left wheel), before fastening the clamps. Fill up the gearbox oil till just below the filler hole level, keeping in mind that gearbox oil is thick and flows slowly, so you are guaranteed a mess anyway. Easiest way is to fill the gearbox oil is with a hosepipe inserted into the filler hole on the one side, and a funnel with the teat inserted into the other side of the hosepipe. Pour the oil slowly, a little bit at at time. An empty gearbox should take about 2.5 litres of oil.

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 1:19 pm
by Fauxmechanic
Thanks pine :)

Any comment on my previous question RE the bearing seals?

And that gearbox oil... is it anything special, or can I just ask for "gearbox oil"?

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 1:29 pm
by Pine
Just ask for 'gearbox oil', often cheaper if bought in larger quantities. Some of the garages fill up their gearboxes with a nice metered hydraulic pump, so they can perhaps supply you with just the correct quantity.

As for the bearings - I reckon any bearing shop (Bearing Man) should have the correct sealed bearings for you, according to their manufacturer's lists?

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:50 pm
by hitlers revenge
Bearing Man will sell you a kit that includes bearing, oil seals and enough grease for the job.

Pine, when last were you in a spares shop! There is all sorts of different gearbox oils. The last oil I bought seemed very thin. So......

Bugger.... what oil do you suggest.
I think everybody considers you as the gearbox king.

Re: Jay's Buggy

Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:57 pm
by Pine
I bought my previous can of gearbox oil from the John Deere agents, the thicker - the better!