My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
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- Drusky
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
Pine a good friend of mine was involved in developing project 1021. He still has one of the concept sketches on his garage wall. His name is August Jukel, he used to be head of design at VWSA, fantastic guy. He has since retired but dabbles in this http://geckocampers.co.za/
Tony, your buggy is orsm!
edit: Pine will you post a link to the 1021 thread please.
Tony, your buggy is orsm!
edit: Pine will you post a link to the 1021 thread please.
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- ACVWSA Junkie
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
Wow, the interesting things that turn up on this Forum! Drusky, please take pics of those blueprints and post them here, if possible?
Hereyago for that link
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... =1&t=19952
Hereyago for that link

- tony777
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
I have a friend that used to be highly involved with vw, and now has a beautiful collection of vehicles. His name is Werner, and his'business' if you want to call it that, is simply werner.. He was the one that told me about my buggy shape. He is also based in centurion.
- Hloni
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
Tony, please do not forget to tell us more about your headlights. Better still, how about a close-up of those lights. They sick man!!!
- tony777
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
Hehe, will do Hloni, problem is my dad organised them for me as a birthday present, and apparently they were quite difficult to get hold of. I will post details the second i know where and how much he got them for.
- Hloni
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
Yeah, tell the ol' man it is for the community. Ask him for a ball park figure, we don't have to know his special rate.
There is a fan club out there!!
There is a fan club out there!!
- tony777
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
hey Hloni, okay so, the buggies lights are in fact Cibie's, (my apologies!!) they are called fog and driving lamps, h4 type, part no cb82866
- tony777
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
So, a very long period has gone by, and loads of things have been happening and keeping me from playing with the buggy.
To go back a little, I sorted out the rear suspension, picked it up one click on the inside and now she sits beautifully!! Sorted out some clearance issues on the front too, she is almost hundreds in the suspension department now.
However, she developed a very ugly splutter that just kept getting worse and worse and I couldnt figure it out.. eventually I sat down, and tried playing with the timing and air fuel mixture and came to the conclusion that one of the valves were sticking. I then went and got some valve-ease, and after pouring some in the carb realised I was getting blow-by on the one head.. Aiii.
So, I stripped the heads off, and found that there was not much damage to the head but I would have to reem the head a little deeper and thus bump the compression up.. But, this was alright since the compression ratio wasnt too high in the first place so I could afford it. Anyway, after all this was done, the compression ratio is now 11:1 and she was assembled and she had no blow by but everything else was... exactly the same.
Lol, so out came the timing light, new jets and a long weekend. After many a setup, I found the sweet spot and now she runs BEAUTIFULLY!! Now the only problem is those big tires and the fact that i really battle to do 120 on the highway.. I think I can do around 110 kmh in third thats how ridiculously out the ratio's are! But, I like the stance, grip and ground clearance the 33" bf's give me so the only solution is.. MORE POWER!!!

Im gonna start off slow, and do the 36 weber like I wanted to, but if that fails, maybe I will go to fuel injection or perhaps something induction-ey. Anyway, will get pictures up soon of what she looks like at the moment.
To go back a little, I sorted out the rear suspension, picked it up one click on the inside and now she sits beautifully!! Sorted out some clearance issues on the front too, she is almost hundreds in the suspension department now.
However, she developed a very ugly splutter that just kept getting worse and worse and I couldnt figure it out.. eventually I sat down, and tried playing with the timing and air fuel mixture and came to the conclusion that one of the valves were sticking. I then went and got some valve-ease, and after pouring some in the carb realised I was getting blow-by on the one head.. Aiii.
So, I stripped the heads off, and found that there was not much damage to the head but I would have to reem the head a little deeper and thus bump the compression up.. But, this was alright since the compression ratio wasnt too high in the first place so I could afford it. Anyway, after all this was done, the compression ratio is now 11:1 and she was assembled and she had no blow by but everything else was... exactly the same.
Lol, so out came the timing light, new jets and a long weekend. After many a setup, I found the sweet spot and now she runs BEAUTIFULLY!! Now the only problem is those big tires and the fact that i really battle to do 120 on the highway.. I think I can do around 110 kmh in third thats how ridiculously out the ratio's are! But, I like the stance, grip and ground clearance the 33" bf's give me so the only solution is.. MORE POWER!!!


Im gonna start off slow, and do the 36 weber like I wanted to, but if that fails, maybe I will go to fuel injection or perhaps something induction-ey. Anyway, will get pictures up soon of what she looks like at the moment.
- riaanj
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
Sweet looking Buggy Tony, I have a Lolette Spyder, also an early Volkspares car, quite scarce, I've only seen 3 others on the road. 

Just keep on BUGGIN'
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Protect the endangered, say NO to exporting our AirCooled spares & cars..
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- Andre_vdm
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
Tony, saw your car at Cars in the park it looks awesome! U should drop by at Cellsound with it and come show it to Oom Johan! Or in the Escort!!!!!
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
If it has a 1600 gearbox at the moment, you could change to a 1300 box to compensate for the taller tyres.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
- tony777
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
Thanx Riaanj, was looking at your spyder yesterday.. very very cool looking machine 
Andre, yeah, I must make a plan to come to the shop.. things are just crazy lately.. the second im happy with her I will bring her though.
Dawie, I already have a 1300 box in her.. its difficult to explain just how big these tyres are

Andre, yeah, I must make a plan to come to the shop.. things are just crazy lately.. the second im happy with her I will bring her though.
Dawie, I already have a 1300 box in her.. its difficult to explain just how big these tyres are

- slak
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
"So, I stripped the heads off, and found that there was not much damage to the head but I would have to reem the head a little deeper and thus bump the compression up.. But, this was alright since the compression ratio wasnt too high in the first place so I could afford it. Anyway, after all this was done, the compression ratio is now 11:1 and she was assembled and she had no blow by but everything else was... exactly the same."
How did U work out the copmression ratio ?
& how much did they have to skim to get to 11:1 ?
How did U work out the copmression ratio ?
& how much did they have to skim to get to 11:1 ?
U Only Live Once Right !!!
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
If I was you,I would speak to Bugger and ask him for advice about your box,....he could make one specifically for your buggy.
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- tony777
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Re: My early volkspares/vw(?) buggy
Is that so Sambabus? I might just very seriously consider that
@ Slak, the compression ratio is the total volume the cylinder can hold when it is at BDC (bottom dead centre) divided by the volume it can hold at TDC (top dead centre) You can cc (measure with a syringe) it manually or you can get the specs for a standard motor off the internet. Then, the depth that you skip, multiplied by the area of the bore will get subtracted from both of those volumes...
If this seems like way too much maths, it probably is.. but its the only way I have managed to work it out for myself.
Im sure there are many other ways to work it out too, but I dont know them.
The other thing is though, that if the head has had different valves put in, this all changes the shape and volume of the combustion chamber. My heads, for example, have much bigger valves in them and the area around the valves needed to be ground down in order to make the chamber flow correctly. Also, when the head gets reemed on the inside, this makes the head sit "further over" the sleeves, and you might need to do some more modifications to eith the head or the cylinders, whichever you prefer, in order to get them to seat together. Some people say that the difference between these little changes is not enough to make a difference, but since im studying engineering, every last variable must be taken into account!!!
Im not sure, but perhaps there is a place on this forum where it explains all this a little better. I know it can be alot to process when reading and not physically seeing. If you do need any more help though, please give me a shout

@ Slak, the compression ratio is the total volume the cylinder can hold when it is at BDC (bottom dead centre) divided by the volume it can hold at TDC (top dead centre) You can cc (measure with a syringe) it manually or you can get the specs for a standard motor off the internet. Then, the depth that you skip, multiplied by the area of the bore will get subtracted from both of those volumes...


The other thing is though, that if the head has had different valves put in, this all changes the shape and volume of the combustion chamber. My heads, for example, have much bigger valves in them and the area around the valves needed to be ground down in order to make the chamber flow correctly. Also, when the head gets reemed on the inside, this makes the head sit "further over" the sleeves, and you might need to do some more modifications to eith the head or the cylinders, whichever you prefer, in order to get them to seat together. Some people say that the difference between these little changes is not enough to make a difference, but since im studying engineering, every last variable must be taken into account!!!

Im not sure, but perhaps there is a place on this forum where it explains all this a little better. I know it can be alot to process when reading and not physically seeing. If you do need any more help though, please give me a shout
