Aircooled VW South Africa

Thanks for asking for the screen Jdt1976 much appreciated.

I had a look at the gearbox today, the number starts with sfas so I think its a 1600 beetle box if I remember it right.

I didn't want to start with major work on the car before sorting out the paperwork so I went to the Police office doing clearance locally with the affidavits, id copies and details from the previous 2 owners.

I was told without papers I cant do anything but if it is a uncompleted kit car I need a letter from where the kit was bought. The PO is still convinced it is a Puma and not a kit-car so I doubt it I will get the letter from him.

The car must also be completed and running to get clearance but my concern is spending all my $$ and then only to be told it doesn't clear only to lose all my hard work and money. The lady also told me most kit cars doesn't have a chassis number when built.(Later model Beetles I guess with plate rivited in nose). Now i am unsure of the way forward but will see what I can do. I want it done properly and legally but the answers seems vague and risky.

A bit disappointed as I was looking forward to fixing her up.

Hi, good luck with your restoration! Found this old Volkspares ad, don't know if it was mentioned before?

That really doesn't look like a puma even with extensive modifications. Wouldn't it be the easiest to get a chassis with nrs and papers and just transfer everything?

Thanks Pine I saw that one but couldn't find any rear view pictures of it.

I think that will be the way to go vwpumagt and I am looking around for a pan / body with papers as the current pan is rusted to bits and fiber-glassed anyway. I agree that it is not a puma. I did find the owners manual for the puma's if you or anyone else is interested in a copy or link.

How do i go about using a Beetle/pan to build a kit-car? Is there any paperwork from the licensing department I should complete? Or do I just build it and then register it as a rebuild/kit-car when completed? Just checking as i don't want to lose the investment.

Thanks

Best would be to go for a pan which have the chassis number stamped under rear seat area. Avoid a later "non stamped" chassis. Maybe get a complete accident damaged beetle that is not scrapped, with papers.

Did some work over the weekend mostly strip it and clean some junk off. The pan is shortened very crudely and rusted beyond repair so I will need a donor car or pan. Here are a few more pics.

Engine and gearbox seems in ok condition but engine has no bottom cooling tin that worries me. The engine number starts with SFCUR**** and VW logo stamped after does this mean it is VW rebuilt?



Opened a valve cover to see what it looks like inside and didn't look to bad.



Hope I can fix the window frame it seems to have a lot of cracks.

Interesting clutch cable... CU engine is from around 80-82 box-shape kombi. Rear support- also interesting. They only extended the frame horns, which is the weak part in the first place.

Seems that the rear plate riveted by previous owner acted like a plug against the fan's intake. Best to extend the body backwards by at least 100mm. Will also make removing/refitting engine easier.

Maybe first measure basic dimensions of windscreen hole and confirm that a Karmann windscreen will indeed fit. Could be that a previous owner modified it to fit something else. If the support tube is in bad condition, and seeing that part of the surround is missing... If you do not intend to keep car original, consider changing to a commonly/cheaply available windscreen. (Citigolf, etc, or something having a closer matching shape.) Get the surround part from a scrapyard...?

A lot was done that doesnt look or work properly I have quite a bit to do.

I want to rebuild the rear of the body to where it was but with my idea of how it will look good. At the moment I am thinking either an upright cooling for the type 4 or going back to a beetle engine.

Interesting idea Dawie never thought of a new frame and window. Will it work to build a steel frame onto fiber? Will it ctack at the joint? Metal and fiber expand differently ?

Thanks

You could keep upper and sides of window surround outer surfaces in steel. Fibreglass up to the metal lip where rubber fits at bottom of windscreen. Windscreen rubber will then cover fibreglass at the bottom. Then you are only left with the bottom corners of "a-pillars" where metal meets fibreglass. Maybe do a little groove/ expansion joint with fender-welt (like where a beetle's fenders meets the body). Or make this groove/ fenderwelt all the way at bottom below windscreen, where metal meets fibreglass.

The link to the OLX ad that Harry Jones posted tonight, looks very much like a modified Lolette Spyder to me?

Wentzel.... @Wentzel
Wanna buy another car???

That is a lolette just like mine but with the roof yes.

No thanks Tony I have too many ptojects at the moment. I do hope that someone on the forum buys it and I hope to see it around.

That is a lolette just like mine but with the roof yes.

No thanks Tony I have too many ptojects at the moment but I hope someone on the forum buys it and I see it around.