Aircooled VW South Africa

Note that this is the ducting piece which attach to the engine. There is still a flexible rubber boot between this and the type 4 car's bodywork ducting.

Thanks for the info Dawie !

Tony Z wrote: ↑Sun Jul 30, 2017 8:09 am ...that angle finder looks like a good piece of kit, much better than the cheapy Kennedy one I have.
If that is a T4 boot and you dont need it, I might be interested.... let me know

Unfortunately not ours, but it sure does make the work a lot easier.
As expected those CB manifolds dont clear the tin. Will have to work it a bit.

Managed to get the other side lowered, 2 inner and one outer spline as the bus has always been sagging on the one side.
Seems to be pretty level now. According to the spline chart the settings I went with was suppose to give about 6cm height increase. Im about double that and with a lot of camber. I also just clear the garage door with millimeters. I cant see this going down another 6cm once the engine is in and everything has settled.





Started stripping the front, currently it has 3.5" dropped spindles up front with an adjustable beam. The adjusters are at their highest settings, so the idea is to get the standard spindles back on and then level it out as apposed to re-welding the adjusters. But I need to check the leaves for cracks first. I removed everything but just cant seem to get the trailing arms out the beam.
Any help ? The grub screws have been removed.

Leaves out, checked and back in. Luckily no cracks. Got the standard spindles back on drums etc.
Now the tie-rod ball joint ends dont fit the standard spindles. The holes are a lot smaller.

Fitted new bits to the engine, dual 36IDFs, new dizzy, coil and electric fuel pump.
Started up the engine, already a lot more responsive than the 34ICTs. Still need some tuning as there is plenty black smoke out the exhaust.

Nice one D - glad to see it running.
Hopefully you can drive the bus to me on Saturday?

Tony Z wrote: ↑Sun Sep 03, 2017 7:21 pm Hopefully you can drive the bus to me on Saturday?

Doubt it will be this Saturday, need to sort out all the black smoke first.
Gonna check floats first and then take it from there again.

Decided to not make the firewall between engine and the fuel tank as there is not much space.

Got the new tie-rod ends, thanks Sean.
Went to Goeie Hoop Onderdele with the spindle and old tie rod ends, the guy couldn't find the correct part. They advised me to just go over the road to Sean and get the part number.

Hopefully all wheels will be back on by end of the weekend. Still need to tune the engine and sort out the sagging area above the engine.

So the wheels are on, 4 months later. Raised the front by 3.5cm, which does not sound like like a lot but makes a massive difference. Next step will be to tidy up the engine bay wiring while the engine is still out.

Where is the evidence?

Will hopefully get some pics in of the raise over the weekend.
Removed the rear cupboards to get to the sagging area above the engine bay.





Its not that clear from the pics but its sagged quite a bit and almost sits on top of the fan housing in the engine bay.
I also want to see if I can fix the hatch hinge and rust.

No after photos yet, I had to remove the tank to get to the back section.
Used three jacks simultaneously to raise the rear section. No luck, as soon as I let the jacks go the whole area would just sag back again. So I ended up raising it up to where it was level and started hammering the metal back into shape. Also spot welded the support bars underneath as some of the spot welds were broken. Its pretty level again and I just need to clean it up and repaint it.




Next job is to tidy up this mess.


This is what the filter in the tank looks like, this was cleaned recently.

AT LEAST IT'S DOING IT'S JOB DON. WHAT ARE YOU RUNNING THE BUS ON......MOLASSES?
IT'S THE CLEAR STUFF YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO USE!

Donovan D wrote: ↑Fri Feb 02, 2018 3:07 pm ................................This is what the filter in the tank looks like, this was cleaned recently.

Time to epoxy the tank inside, looks like its crusting from rust.

Herman

The tank was recently treated on the inside, same stuff as whats used on the aircraft in the airforce.

Still having engine troubles. After no 4 was filling with petrol I completely removed the carb to clean it again. Got everything back on and now its even rougher than what it was. So far no more petrol dripping onto the butterfly any more. I pulled leads 1 to 4 starting at 1. 1 and 2 makes a clear diferrence but nothing on 3 and 4. The odd thing is when I pull lead no 3 it sounds like its sparking in the distributor, 4 just does not make any difference. If I keep it close to the plug there is a definite spark but no difference in engine sound. I also replaced all 4 plugs.

The carbs are synced, I rechecked using the snail gauge.
Any thoughts ? Im thinking blocked idle jets, or not getting any fuel or maybe manifold leak seeing that 3 and 4 makes no difference.

double check your firing order again, make sure the marking on the dizzy are right and they are going to the right plugs
if you have checked your idle jets, firing order, timing, plugs, vac leaks and you dont have any success, try removing the plug lead clips - you might be cross firing
also check the fuel filter in the carb, maybe its blocked?
Check your carb fuel inlet lines, the small port on the one carb is a restrictor and in your application, should be blocked off. Only use the big ports.
Then if you have them, replace the chock levers and get rid of the little covers - you have the space to do this. I worked on a bug a few weeks ago which would sometimes lift the chokes, but they'd get stuck and wouldnt return - fitting the plates fixed this.
Good luck