The re-Birth of Toy 1 (o\_!_/o)

Give details and pictures of your ACVW projects here.
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Edmond
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by Edmond »

Get this book "How to rebuild aircooled vw engines by Tom Wilson" available from kalahari.net has all the info you need even has how to convert a 1300 to 1600 engine
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by davetapson »

My project: http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=12543" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Looking for a splitscreen panelvan - have a year or two to find one. If you know of one, please let me know.
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1972
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by 1972 »

thanks guys will see what happens, will first get the engine out of garage, and see what the condition is of the motor will post some pics and maybe you guys can give me some advise on wether or not to use it....
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"Toy 1" 1968 Vw Beetle
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by 1972 »

am gonna have a look at getting a 1600 engine then having it rebuilt

where can i get heads refurbished i saw pine had he's done, pine maybe you can help me out here?.....:

Do supply the valves and all the other parts for the heads, or does the company who refurbs them get all that?
Who do i get them done by?
Is it gonna cost me a arm and a leg?


Have found a very special set of 1600 heads, but they will most probally be put in the safe and one day be put onto a stock 1600 engine.
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"Toy 1" 1968 Vw Beetle
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by 1972 »

was told this is what i must do..........




This is kinda long, but if I was going to rebuild a Bug engine, here's what I'd do:
First, pull the engine out of the car and strip off the intake, exhaust, and sheetmetal. Drain the oil out of the engine.
Next, make three areas in your workspace, which you've cleaned well. Call them the "clean," "rebuild" and "replace" piles. Anything in the "clean" pile, you just clean and put back in the engine. Everything in the "rebuild" pile goes to the machinist, and the "replace" pile is self-explanatory.
The heat exchangers are the boxes attached to the heads. These are your heating system, and if they leak exhaust they can kill you quick. Inspect them very closely, and if they look even the least bit questionable, put them in the Replace pile. If they're okay, put them in the Clean pile.
Put all the stuff you stripped off in the first step in the Clean pile, except for the alternator, distributor and carb. They go in the Rebuild pile.
Take the heads off and put them in the Rebuild pile. Strip the engine down. Put the connecting rods, the flywheel, the crank, the cam and the case in the Rebuild pile. Put the distributor pinion, the rockers and valve covers, the head studs, the pushrods, the oil strainer and the crank pulley in the Clean pile. Put everything else in the Replace pile...and think hard about putting the case there too. All the nuts and bolts should go in the Replace pile, but most people put them in the Clean pile.
Box up all the stuff in the Rebuild pile and haul it to a machinist that does VW work and that has a Rottler line-boring machine if you're doing the case. Do NOT get your engine line-bored by a guy that uses a portable line bore. There are perfectly good reasons to use a portable line bore--in-frame overhauls of big diesels are those reasons. The alternator goes to an auto rebuild shop. The distributor needs new points, condenser, rotor and cap...or live it up and put a Pertronix Ignitor in.
Use this opportunity to clean the items in the Clean pile and purchase the items in the Replace pile. You will also need at least one tube of assembly lubricant (Lubriplate is supreme), a tube of Yamabond 5 to glue the case back together, a clutch, a carb rebuild kit, a gasket set, a case of oil and a main seal--you don't get one in the gasket sets, and I don't know why. Make sure you have a good torque wrench--this is critical. Also get a new gland nut no matter what yours looks like. This holds the flywheel on. It's under a lot of torque and it has ultra-fine threads. You can get a racing gland nut if you like; it's made from 4340 Chromoly steel and takes a lot more torque. It also takes a lot larger wrench to install it--1-1/2" versus 36mm.
When you pick up your rebuilt stuff, buy your main, rod and cam bearings from the machinist. He knows what undersize he used, and it's professional courtesy to do it that way. You will probably also save money--the last time I bought bearings from a non-machinist I paid about twice what I did when I bought them from a machinist.
Go home and use your VW service manual to tell you how to put the engine back together. Reinstall the engine and, if you did everything right, you'll be a happy person.
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by Cyberbeast »

Besides a few variations and small details, sounds more or less right.

One small detail that differs from person to person, is the case sealant. There are a few sealants to use for sealing the case, and it is debatable which type to use.

Another is the "fact" about the gland nut. Replacing it is good... but my reason would be because it has the needle bearings inside of it... and not because of its threads or amount of torque it can handle. If you keep the engine standard... then it is not necessary to use a racing gland nut... a stock one will be more than perfect. (When I did the clutch on my Beetle, I did not replace the gland nut... I just greased the needle bearings nicely again)

That is just my personal opinion...

I'm sure over the next few days everyone on the forum give tips and make sure you know what you need to do.
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by davetapson »

Yep - always interesting to hear people's opinions - then you take out of them what works for you and do that.

Me, I tend to use whatever is available at the parts shop 5 mins before it's closing... :?
My project: http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=12543" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Looking for a splitscreen panelvan - have a year or two to find one. If you know of one, please let me know.
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by Bugger »

Hi Shane give me a buzz YourFront beam is done I had a oooooooooooooooops with my phone and lost Quite alot of numbers

082 600 8663
Adapterplates Available for Rotary in Beetle and others aswell
And Special Boxes built for Rotary Conversions and Scubies
Pierre
082 600 8663

CLick on Banner Below to be routed to the Web site

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Re: 14 year old build

Post by 1972 »

Thanks Pierre :wink:
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"Toy 1" 1968 Vw Beetle
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by Chris »

And don't forget the windows while you are there.
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by 1972 »

windows,handbrake rite chris????
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by Chris »

Yes :wink:
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by 1972 »

cool :wink:
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by 1972 »

Ok so not much has happened on the body roller.

1. Metal was delivered, measure it quick and ask the guy are you sure this is for me he says yes, so measure again,could of sworn i didnt order rectangular tubing,check invoice says i should of gotten 50x50 square tubing so sent it back, now i wait till they find 50x50 square tubing and get it to me.
2. Nothing else has happened so far but everything else is ready just waiting on metal.
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Re: 14 year old build

Post by Bugger »

1972 wrote:windows,handbrake rite chris????
Have not gotten anything from Bonny yet
But the Handbrake from CPT from HR is here :lol:
Adapterplates Available for Rotary in Beetle and others aswell
And Special Boxes built for Rotary Conversions and Scubies
Pierre
082 600 8663

CLick on Banner Below to be routed to the Web site

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