Aircooled VW South Africa

BigBear wrote:
The old oil looked rather filthy and like a diesel type oil ...

Probably. I have heard from 1 or 2 shops and a few mechanics that they are using diesel oil as it is less prone to break down at higher temperatures. I've tried it, helps a bit, back on castrol GTX again...

JamesD69 wrote:

BigBear wrote:
The old oil looked rather filthy and like a diesel type oil ...

Probably. I have heard from 1 or 2 shops and a few mechanics that they are using diesel oil as it is less prone to break down at higher temperatures. I've tried it, helps a bit, back on castrol GTX again...

Does make sense especially with the Newer Turbo Diesels/Petrols ... using the oil to Lubricate the Turbo as well..

GTX Just Works

If the Previous Blocked lasted over 200,000km with it ... and only had to be changed due to a small crack ...
I'm Sure this one will as well...

I went to the spares shop the other day to get GTX and they claim its recycled oil is this true, they said someone from Castrol actually said this.
I have switched to Shell helix 20W50 will see how it works

Was just given some Castrol Magnatech 10w40

here's hoping it works well on a standard 1600 running in a very hot and humid durbs

Edmond wrote:I went to the spares shop the other day to get GTX and they claim its recycled oil is this true, they said someone from Castrol actually said this.
I have switched to Shell helix 20W50 will see how it works

I wouldn't take a Spares Shop / the Rep seriously, they can claim the most utter nonsense as truth..

Castrol GTX 20W50, Works for me.

Another good brand is the Liqui Moly Range:
http://www.liquimoly.co.za/
http://www.liqui-moly.de
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/web. ... guide.html
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/prod ... 6050e.html
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/prod ... _1250.html

When starting a new engine I start it using a cheap sae40 oil run it until hot dump the oil and then fill with the rest of the oil (5liters gives two changes) I run this oil for a further 500km then dump it again
I have used monogrades in beetle engines purely because of the oil cooler needing thin oil to work due to the bypass piston
Since i am an old school kind of person I use Valvoline. but also tend to support diesel type oils due to the fact that there is more contamination from blowby and therefore the diesel oils tend to have better detergent qualities BTW the new generation VWs use a diesel rated oil in the petrol models as well. on type fours i like multigrades and have tried different types all with good results. I do like changing oil often though it might be worthwile to look into motorcycle type oils as they contain more zinc especially if you have strong valve springs and a radical cam
Armand

Sure Castrol GTX was used by me for many years, in my Aircooled engines, even the agents used it, it worked for me. But .......
Oil has changed a lot in the last 10/12 years or so, not due to the oil manufacturers but more because of the motor manufacturers. In some countries like US, Germany, it is law and oil needs to adhear to strict regulations & standards, this causing oil companies to fall in line. This brings about change, and what is actually in oil ? I have been looking at oil diffrently, I also said oil is oil, but have learnt that this is not true.

After having 2 not so stock engines recently give me problems due to rapidly worn out followers, promted me to start looking for answers. Btw I allways use the same formula in parts and assembly. A buddy who does engine building for a living has been having issues.

Our old engines were happy will fossil oils with lots of zink, phosphorous (ZDDP) and no detergents, todays oils have reduced levels of ZDDP this is done to protect catalitic converters and CO sensors as the zink kills them off, in doing so a lot of the lubrication properties needed for our old engines is lost. This is true as our engine need the zinc in the 2 areas of much sress, the cam & followers, and this also applies to many other vintage cars that run a similar setup.
In my search I found that ZDDP levels in Castrol GTX has dropped from around 1300ppm (ppm - parts per million) to around 800ppm, and from what I got to find out, ideal levels should be around the 1200ppm in our fossil motors.
So to make a long story short one should be using oils with a ZDDP level of around 1200ppm.
There are adittives out there that can be mixed in to boost the ZDDP levels, I have never been a fan of adatives of any kind so have decided that a chnge of oil in my motors especialy anything more than a stock engine.
By the looks of it, oils that are formulated purely for racing, as they don't have to worry about cat. converters is the way to go, as well as some other off the shelf stuff.
This is what I have found:
Mobil 1 15w50 full synthetic (1300 ppm ZDDP) this one is especialy formulated for flat tappet engines
Casrtol synthetic 20w50 (1200 ppm ZDDP)
Shell Rottela 15w40 (1200 ppm ZDDP)
Shell Rottela 5w40 full synthetic (1300 ppm ZDDP)

There are quite a few others but they are not all for sale here in SA, these mentioned above are rather pricey and the racing stuff even more.

The initial run in of a motor is where the engine is under the most stess and where the right oil can mean the diff. between it having a good life or a premature end.

Interesting info, will need to have a more detailed look into they're specs.

My Vw mechanic friend swears by the Diesel stuff....... for when I get around to using it that is...
Sorry - my 2c worth as he gave 10l of the stuff

I found a place in CT that stocks Comp Cams cam break in additive that contains ZDDP and other additives specially formulated to prevent the cam and followers from eating each other up during the critical break in period, at R175 its costly but not as bad as tearing down a motor and relacing the cam and followers.
I plan to use a bottle of it for my new engine when its time for its break in and from then run it on Shell Rotella 15W40 Oil

I know this is an old topic but need some insight please. I have read a lot on zinc content zddp and cam failures and also types of oil recommended.

I have been using castrol magnatec 10w40 in my ignorance and it doesn't have the recommended zddp. So far i have done a few thousand km on it without problems but I do change oil frequently. Is this saving me or why don't I have any lifter/cam issues? The cam is a scat with scat lifters and single high rev springs that i have been using for almost 10 years but not thousands of km.

Do the lifter/cam wear happen gradually or quickly?

Did anyone use magnatec and what is your experience with it?

Thanks

I only use Castrol Magnetec 10W40 in my 2002 Opel Zafira, its a good oil but it's meant for more modern cars with catalytic converters rather than our old aircooled vdubs, I doubt Magnetec 10W40 has high ZDDP levels

I've had good luck using normal straight Midas SAE40 oil in my baja for the last 55000km, cam still looks like new when I stripped the engine at the
160 000km mark but I might try 15W40 Rotella on the engine when its back together

Thanks Edmond that was my conclusion also. I haven't taken the engine apart again but don't have any issues on the Magnatech and was just wondering if they have another component that can help the cam and lifters.

I will however change to a oil with the correct ZDDP soon.

I think our very mechanically minded specialist Mr Z can add some insight here.
He suggested to me a year ago to use Castrol Diesel oil in my Speedster after he had just done some trick heads. The Diesel oil has more detergent to help keep things clean, and it keeps the motor running cooler than normal. So that's what I use.

Pine wrote:At the rate that many air cooldeds leak oil, it shouldn't be a problem as there is a (hypohtetically speaken) constant supply of fresh oil from the filler cap!

True that