Aircooled VW South Africa

go buy an inverter welder............

yeah it is a kakkie job, but very do-able for the diy-er. There's a really good link somewhere on the SAMBA as well as a side view of all the pipes that run inside the tunnel.

Baby grinder with a fine cutting disc works perfect, cause it doesn't leave much to have to weld back.

I saw that.. also saw some pics on there.. Guys got a way with a large holesaw as well.. But I'll try the grinder\jugsaw, and flap it down.. Borrowing a mates Welder, if I can't get that right, I'll use the other idea of a clamp bolted to the drivers side of the tunnel holding the tube down and against the sidewall..
This car was for sure a "Heart Purchase"... I mean, none of my other aircool's had this many issues and problems. It's really dissapointing. yes I'm making progress and it's fund driving it, but dammit it's a problem child of note!!!

dont worry about it, each step is a step forward.
If you do everything properly, you will get to the point where have nothing left to do

acpaterson wrote: This car was for sure a "Heart Purchase"... I mean, none of my other aircool's had this many issues and problems. It's really dissapointing. yes I'm making progress and it's fund driving it, but dammit it's a problem child of note!!!

I hear you, mine was one as well, but as Tony said, one day you have nothing more to do, but enjoy it.

The thing with the speedsters is that they're built using usually old clapped out cars and parts. I had bailing wire for my door mech as well as multiple different nuts and bolts all around the car. Mine was actually way worse than yours. I am re-doing some things as I mainly want to improve even more over the first time that I did it.

1 job at a time..........

I would reccomend a mig welder stick welders wont work at all if you are a novice welder and will be difficult for a pro.
my reason for using a holesaw is that there is no sparks to contend with(these sparks destroy carpets. seats.windows etc not to talk about fire) only one deep hole for the drill (less chance of damage to internal parts) I usually hold the drill at an angle so as to cut 805 of the hole I then bend back the flap and do the work bend back and reweld.
I do not leave flaps for future acces as these usually cause stress risers and further cracks will appear also my reason for drilling a round hole less chance of cracks.
Finding the exact spot for that bracket is not so easy but there are indentations made by a spotwelder when these were installed by the factory and they can be found
Armand

Saturday morning.

Straight to Tiger wheel and Tyre, and off we go. The Fronts have worn badly on the inside, deduction means there's too much Camber. No no, can't camber the front, only do a little toe in or toe out.. So deduction is the wheels have been rotated from the rear, as it sits with a small camber.
Ok, so no alignment, we just fit the new 2nd hand Michelins I bought. Manage to get the White wall rubbers across and seated as well, guys were great. Unfortunately, the balancing machine doesn't want to work nicely with these wheels.. When they DO get it going, it seems 3 out of 4 of the Rims are warped, in some way, very minutely, but enough that they can't do balancing. Oh well, their replacements can frikkin wait for all I care.. So we put the wheels back on, and I'm off.

Back to Midas, frab a pair of number plate bulbs, fly home, fit numberplate light, carb's still giving kak, even though I've set timing and adjusted with strobe.. Bugger it, scream back to Roadworthy.. Run car through headlight machine, focus lights 100%. she checks the number and it's not on the System yet.. no real issue, I must go Tuesday, proceed with Reg, explain whats up at the Counter, they should still complete Reg and change of ownership, then call COR station, and she'll add the number in to the system.. Should be all done and dusted according to the lady manager.. really nice and pleasant to work with for a change..

Home, and now to fix stuff..



Single garage I can't move in, so work outside, in 30 degree's,
Take off rear lid, makes the access much better.. So start looking around.. I can see in the Carb there's a "jet" or pipe missing, so when you open accelerator, fuel just "pours" into throat, no spray, that top part is gone.. Now you guys get an idea of just HOW kak this car's condition is.. I don't even know how it runs... But not worried as I want to fit the Dual Webers..

First, get Grinder out, pull out carpets, and start. After 5 minutes, I haven't even got a hole through the tunnel!!! WTF!!! Then, as it's been a while working with such tools, I realize I'm trying to CUT with a GRINDING wheel.. Drop shit, grab helmet, get on scoot, off the Builders.. find correct metal cutting discs x 5.. Back home, sweating like a Sailor on his first pass . Mount cutting Disc, and 10 minutes later, I have a hole. Haven't cut all the way through, enough to bend it down, do the fix, and then bend back up and weld closed later.. I can see the problem, although it's about 2 cm's in front of my hole, so, I'll be able to do this with a Welding Rod bent.. Going to be a tester..





So wait for Welder to get here.. In the meantime, I need help from the CARB People.. Tony, perhaps you can help.. Here's a Pic of my Carbs.. (one of them.) not 100% sure what I connect onto the Carb.. Can I use the standard Distributor for now, and put a splitter for the Vacuum to these? And I'm assuming fuel goes into the top left hole, and the vacuum into that bottom hole, is that correct?



Or, should I just mount the Distributor as well? Nervous as this is a point where the car is running now, but if I don't get the carb install right, it's no longer running.. So pls share some words of wisdom here.
I don't think I'll have any problems fitting the Manifolds and the linkage etc, just need some guidence on fuelling and Dizzi, vacuum pipes please.

Alan

yip, as you mention, fuel goes in at the top (to the left of "WEBER" in your pic
vacuum goes into the bottom pipe
run vacuum off both carbs if you can, if not, one is better than none. Even then, you can still run without the vacuum if you wish, just plug the pipe at the carb to stop you sucking in extra air and no fuel for that air.

get your fuel filter out of the engine bay before you burn the entire car to the ground
put it next to the gearbox where it belongs

Thanks man, will do..
Should I fit the 009 Distributor now or wait? It doesn't have the vacuum deevice on.. Also, no rotor or cap, can I use the standard one off my existing Disti?

the rotor and cap shoul dbe interchangeable
if your dizzy has mechanical advance, you dont even need to change to the 009
it is better to run vacuum though, even if it isnt perfect, its better than without

So, here's where I'm at..
This is a set of Carbs I bought from Bushpig 2 weeks ago.. They were lying at Grand Slam in Strand for a few months, apparently all in tact. So I paid Bruce, trundled through and collected them.

They apparently came off a Beetle Motor (Baja), and went straight into a box..



They seem to sit VERY far in front of the Motor in my opinion..

In this Pic, I've left the right hand linkage to show Bruce who claims they were as he took them off his car.. Note how long that linkage is?? Cannot be stock like this, or someone's been swapping out parts.



Left hand Carb linkage is on, but needs adjustment as you can see where the center pull arm is..



Does this all look normal to you guys? Right now, I'm hoping I can cut that linkage and cut a new thread inside so that it's shorter and fits the setup properly..

something doesnt look right there. That said, I dont know that specific linkage.
If I relate to the other push-pull linkages that I have put together, the pivot is mounted the other way around. The throttle cable is supposed to come out of the fan housing and line up with where it mounts into the pivot. Your accel cable seems to want to hit the shaft. I could be wrong here.
That other linkage arm of your is too long....

This link below should take you to a picture of my engine where you can clearly see my linkage
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 25#p256217
In the case of my Webers, it is a push to open, pull to close.

hope it helps at least - the joys of customization....

Shit!
Well no turning back now. It must bloody fit!
Welding's done, Clutch cable pipe is welded back to sidewall, and the hole's been closed and welded up.. Cool. Learnt something new..

As for the center pull, no chance it can go the other way, then the left hand side rod is WAY too short. I need to put a shim or spacer between it's mounting hole and the hole in the casing, which then puts the cable directly in line with that tee piece.. But jurra, what a crappy linkage system.. surely cannot be accurate. And I doubt there's anything else lying around in a shop somewhere I could buy,. like a Hex Rod top bar type pulley.
The problem is, that threaded bar is one long rod, I can't "just cut it shorter".. Well I don't think the car's working for tomorrow...

what you could do is mount the pivot where it fits.
Then go to builders warehouse and buy some M5 threaded rod (I think its M5) to replace the push/pull arms. When you do this, try mount the pivot in a way that the new arms are closer to equal length than they currently are.
OK, the rod will bend. To get around this, buy some thin walled metal pipe which is just bigger on ID than the M5 rod. Slip this over the rod. Use an extra nut to hold it in place.
This will be good enough as a temp solution until you can come up with something better. Should set you back less than R100.
I'll see if I can find the name of the pipe I am thinking of.
I ran an M5 rod on my linkage because the longer arm was too short with these manifolds.

I cant find what the pipe that i am thinking of is called
another idea is if you get any pipe and clamp it between two nuts and washers, then it will also provide strength as you are transferring load onto it (clamp it properly tight so it cannot move).