Aircooled VW South Africa

Understood thanks everyone.

Engine gearbox mountings all brand new, the black rubber type and frame horns are in good condition.

Will start with the adjusting the tube bend and see where we from go from there...



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I've bought and installed brand new fancy black rubber mounts that ended up tearing while installing them. This shouldnt be possible.
I then got another batch from another supplier and the car came back with both torn after 3000km.

I now only stock CB Performance Rhino mounts as these do currently seem to be the best you can buy anywhere


My point?
If it isnt the bowden tube, look at your mounts.

So Guys after close to 6 months it's running and driving!!!!!!

Clutch shudder was the Bowden tube being too straight. the clutch tube at the pan was shorter then needed so I cut the front off an old bowden tube and made an extension... Now works 100% engine mounts still good.

Lots of bugs to work out but the biggest is the brakes.... Bled them many times and the peddle feels fine then suddenly dissappears.... No obvious leaks anywhere removed all drums and checked pistons for leaks nothing obvious. I have new pistons in the back, a new single booster at the peddle, new lines all round. Only front pistons aren't new but they don't leak and work well.... I am bleeding through the pump and drain starting at the furtherest wheel and working my way round... Any suggestions welcome.

Buggy has a golf 1 lights and hazard switch and a Toyota 3 pin indicator relay... Can't find a way to draw an indicator light to the dash from the setup... Any input or ideas welcome please.

Some pics for your viewing pleasure...

Cosmetics, roll changes etc etc will be done over time. We just want to get it off road and have some fun now. UT need brakes for that...

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take two wires, .. one each from your L and one from your R indicator lights wires at the relay, and fit a small diode on each end before connecting to your dash light.

This way the light will work for both sides, but will not feed back to the other side

Just make sure the other side of the light is - Negative and not + positive as per on the Beetle speedo pod.

So you may have to insulate the body of the bulb and connect a negative.

Herman

retrovan wrote:take two wires, .. one each from your L and one from your R indicator lights wires at the relay, and fit a small diode on each end before connecting to your dash light.

This way the light will work for both sides, but will not feed back to the other side

Just make sure the other side of the light is - Negative and not + positive as per on the Beetle speedo pod.

So you may have to insulate the body of the bulb and connect a negative.

Herman

Thank you that's a great idea.

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Hi All. Need your advice again please.

Engine is starting to be dialed in nicely however it seems to be running very hot to me. The last aircooled I owned was a puma gt in 97, but this one does seem to run very hot...


I am worried I don't have all the tins, ducts in place and am struggling to find a suitable diagram. I see there may be tins called "cool tins" that I don't have


I have a dog house fan shroud and the ducts from the oil cooler onwards are missing. There is also no thermostat fitted and no heater ducts or any tins on the bottom of the motor.

Can anyone llease advise what's needed to ensure proper cooling please.

Thanks


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Number 6, 10, 9 and 5 I don't believe I have and may need...

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Keith,....simple.......all of the above !! But
I am sure that the ghurus will back me up.

No5's. Is the "forget me nots"......are you sure you don't have it,.....between the barrels if you look from the bottom

Haans

OK so. I have the number 5's and the number 1's on the top around the cylinders and the fan shroud and by the crankcase pulley but that's pretty much it...

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you;ve got most of the important ones.
Try to make sure you only suck cool air into the fan, as far as possible.
It would help to have 9, 11, 6 and "the opposite of 11, which isnt on the drawing"

Some quick feedback. Managed to pick up the tins needed. They are second hand so will be blasting, spraying and patching as needed next weekend.

Have a question around distributors and carbs.... Engine is a 1600 twinport. Carb fitted is a Solex 34 Pict 3. Serviced it and during re assembly realized I had not taken enough pics of the throttle assembly... Then on searching couldn't find one like it. Because the beetle one has like one arm... Mine has three parts and on talking to the guys I got the pans from he says it's a golf Mach 1 carb... Pics attached.

On distributors, the plate the points mount to is frosen inside the distributor. As such the vacuum advance is useless. I have tried a lot of ways to loosen it with no luck and I am having problems getting it to idle right and the flat spot on take off is as expected severe... The part number in this distributor is 111 905 205T. It has a bright orange cap and rotor...
When picking up the tins today I got a second hand distributor that the advance works on but... The points plate has a pin at the rotation points so my current ones don't fit and the rotor shaft seems smaller... This one is part number 311 905 205E.

My questions are:

1) will this "new" distributor work with the correct points for it and the rotor and I am thinking it may need a new cap too?
2) if this distributor won't work what part number am I looking for because at the moment a new one is out of reach.
3) does anyone have a diagram of the throttle arm for the 34 pict 3 carb on a golf...

Engine number is AD871230

Thanks as always guys.

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The 34Pict for 1600 twinport, and 31pict for 1300 dual port, needs the longer "combined centrifugal and vacuum advance" distributor.

Short "vacuum only, non centrifugal, distributor" with large can, soft spring, is an unusual setup which needs the 28pict or 30pict from 61-70 singleport. Those carbs take low level vacuum from underneath venturi. Type of money-saving effort at the time.

Thanks for the advice guys.

Herewith some feedback. So my engine being an AD appears to be from a bus not a beetle. Would explain why I could not find it anywhere. I managed to get the small vacuum only distributor apart properly and cleaned it well and it's working great. I even found a reference to that distributor on a 1600 twinport, but I have a SVDA in mind for when budget allows. For the moment I have static timed it to TDC using a test light. Will look at advance running when I get it back together.

Was also tracking down a problem where cylinders 1 and 2 would come and go together as a pair with a nasty misfire on one of them and nothing on the other. I narrowed it down it being an air leak somewhere...

Sprayed brake cleaner on the intake ports and it changed the engine note so I got some steel gaskets and dismantled the intake manifold tonight.
While doing this I also found the boot in the right has a nice tear in it too... Number 2 spark plug tip was ash white, number 1 was okish...spraying brake cleaner on the damaged boot made no difference, which shows sometimes a remove and inspect is the only way to go...

So now I have the intakes off and am going to get the rubber parts tomorrow for both sides and re assemble.

I found a lot of gunk under the inlet manifolds... Looked like a number of different sealing compounds over years...

I believe the ridge in the steel gaskets faces up on instalation. Can anyone confirm that please?

Also I see mixed reviews of leaving the gaskets naked or putting a thin layer in them before re assembly. Can you guys tell me what you do for these gaskets?

Look forward to hearing from everyone.

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Keith,.....manifolds clean with no gunk I would say,...gaskets facing up. Face the manifolds mating face on a flatting paper ,..on a piece of glass,...800 grade would do it. Then again some people like to add a touch of gasket sealer?

Lets hear what ghurus advise ,....love to get their opinion on this

Haans

Have always found that parts that heat and cool should have a good quality sealer added as the expansion and contraction will collapse the gasket over time and present a problem down the line.

Herman