Update 9/8/09
Firstly, apologies for the quality of the pics, my cellphone is usually handy, but it does not take great pics in low light conditions, and I only started at 4:30.
Started fiddling around with my car today, and found some rust - EEEEKKKK.
The bottom of the passenger side A-Pillar is rusted through. Fortunately only the outside skin, the part the door attaches too and the heater channel (by some miracle) is all fine. I used a steel wire brush and an old toothbrush to get all the loose rust off and out of all the crevasses, then painted it with a rust converter to stop the rot from spreading. Did the same with the rust spots on the bonnet and front wings. What is strange about the A-pillar's rust, is that the entire pan, and under the wings is as clean and dry as you will find in a beetle. I can only assume that the car was left in the rain with the bonnet off, as it looks to have rusted through from the inside ? And look at the stuff that came out of that hole, a piece of charcoal, some velcro, couple of stones! What the ??!!
Fitted the new firewall this afternoon. That sounds so simple
Let's call it my guide on not the ideal way to fit a firewall.
Preperation:
Invite a friend/relative or compel your old enough KID to help. You can do this alone, but trust me, it's better to have someone help. (I did not think it necessary, so I struggled alone)
Drop the engine.
Again, you can do this with the engine in place, like I did, BUT DAMN, what a mission! I am pretty sure it will be a LOT easier with the engine out.
Right, now that we have that out of the way.
Step 1:
Disconnect the battery.
Step 2:
Double check that you disconnected the battery - dont ask.
Make sure all the metal spikes protruding from the firewall are nice and straight.
The new firewall material is pretty thick and strong stuff, so not too easy to manipulate.
I took the air filter off, and then slid the firewall in from the top. I realized later it would also have been easier to do had I removed the engine lid.
Started at the bottom and made sure the new firewall was nicely tucked in along the bottom of the engine bay and also behind the engine tin seal at the back of the doghouse cooler. Besides the bunch of spikes I also found two large metal tabs directly behind the engine fan intake (felt them, could not see them at all), slid the new firewall behind them and bent them back as tight as the limited space would allow.
I had a lead light with me, so I could take some pics afterwards of what was going on back there:
The FAN:
Working from the bottom up I then pushed the firewall through the spikes as tight to the metal as possible, and bent them closed. This sounds much quicker and easier than it is, as you cannot see or get in behind the engine, so its working blind and feeling your way as you go. At least the bits to the left and right of the engine was not too difficult.
I checked and double checked and got it as tight to the metal backing as possible, then folded the top of the firewall double, and pushed it in behind the drip rail with the back of a small wrench, to get it in there as tightly as possible and to make sure it stays in place.
This short description of the process took me a couple of hours! Oh, before I forget. I undid all the wires going to the engine, measured their existing location. Then measured this out on the firewall and cut the holes to thread them through before starting the fitment process. Definately the easier way to do this.
I also listened to the advice offered, and used some upholsterers spray-on glue (Got a can from MICA). Sprayed the back of the new firewall in the area behind the fan intake with some before pushing it back against the metal. I am confident this will also help secure the firewall. Those metal spikes are pretty good at keeping it in place though, so if all yours are in tact and you have the patience to re-use them, I can't see how the firewall will come loose.
Left Side (note the spikes):
Right Side:
Reconnected the battery and then it was time to test, started the engine up and at idle all was well, increased the rev's and looked for any pieces flapping around but all was still good. So one MAJOR job can be ticked off my list.
Also make sure to fit the sides and bottom pieces last, I had to remove them again in any case to get the back piece in.
Will take some better pictures during the day.
You would think this was enough done for one day, but no, Karma was feeling STRONG, hehe, and I haven't had a chance to work on my car properly in a while, and I was already dirty, so time to fit the wiper motor I got yesterday.
I tested the old one again just to make sure it was really faulty, another blown old fuse confirmed that.
Removed the two wiper arms and blades, then the nuts holding the assembly to the body, one nut just about under the vw bonnet badge and out comes the entire thing.
Removed the tired motor from the assembly, and the name says it all. A VOC
Fitted the new (old but working) Bosch motor to the assembly:
Then bolted it back into place, fitted the wiper arms and just when I though it was a great days work, the passenger side wiper assembly broke as I was tightening the screw
It was obviously brittle with age, but still, not funny. Anyone have a wiper arm for me ?
At least the drivers side is fine and the wipers now work
All-in-all not a bad days work, but phew, that took a little longer than expected.
: 
, also got an almost new looking 6V Bosch wiper motor. Have to check if it has the same mechanism as mine, but should be, and a 6V interior light globe.
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