TOY 356 NW

[BARON]

IMPI
Im sure you are “gatvol” for fibre glass by now , what a messy job.
My job is much easier than yours with less contours and frills but still bad.This is what Im busy with -



about 100 sqm to be done. I only started early in the summer due to other job commitments and now Im battling with the rain.
Doing one layer of 450 gm and a layer of resin as a paint layer and then when winter comes Ill put one or two layers again
Doing it all on my own –even the almost 6 tons of concrete that went in the floor.

But hope fully by Christmas we will be swimming
So cheers and enjoy glassing
baron

[IMPI]

Ja I think gatvol is the word.
I spent the whole weekend mounting the roof with little strips of steel in preparation for the big glueing event. The two bodies are surprisingly close and the joins actually line up pretty well there is still tons of work but we are getting there




Even the rear window fits

Real 356 A bodies had the headlights 35mm lower than the replica bodies (something to do with US laws)


The actual glueing together will take the rest of the week and then it will be back to the rear seat area to close that gaping hole
Armand

[calooker]

Hats off to you, some major graft, I can only imaging how yyou must be itching to get finished

[flatfourfan]

Damn armand, you weren't kidding. it's looking amazing. I think that I may be copying your idea with the headlights and the rockers with the access panel. Damn 56k dial up line.

keep it up. we expect to see much more updates.

[IMPI]

The roof and bottom has now been joined permanently obviously there is surface prep left and all those dents I copied from the original is still present in my copy. It was surprisingly easy to mate the two halves with only the rear end where the numberplate fits refusing to line up there was a centimeter deep mismatch which was cured by another patch piece from the original car. the method for joining glasfiber parts is as follows. first line up the parts join them with straps glass a layer or two on the underside and remove the straps when the fiberglass has cured. gring a v shaped notch at least 10 times the thickness of your fiberglass original this means for glass 5mm thick the v should be 50mm wide use thin strips of matting ond progressivele widening them until the original thickness is achieved if torn fiber mat was used at the bottom of the join this would render the joint invisible and as strong as the original glass.

ON the body there is a small drawing of the join this photo was taken after the v was ground and the itching started.
The headlight gaps filled in the top of the wheel arch has been thickened cosiderably and will be sanded to a more correct shape




The main shell is now largely together which leaves doors. I was lucky enough to be able to copy the tops of real doors and have moulded the inset pieces

Armand

[flatfourfan]

that's the ticket right there. looking very nice. What type of stance are you going for? Slammed or stock stance?

[IMPI]

Hi
I will probably lower it a bit but it will be fully adjustable. Can You say OUTLAW.
I will also make some alternative decklids std 2 grilles as well as 5 louvers as on some carreras
Windows will be carrera spec as well.
The new sills are also in

Armand

[Nick Bekker]

Looks absolutely abrilliant

[splitfan]

Hat's off Armand that is just a HUGE HUGE ammount of work man, respect.

[Junior]

WOW THAT IS AMAZING!!!!

[JohnHoffe]

BRAINWAVE

While you're at it, why don't you change the roof to look like a Cayman-type roof with the two bulges?

You know, as if you don't have enough to do.......

[Dutch_Diver]

WOW THAT IS AMAZING!!!!

x2 !!!!!

New business idea here!

[IMPI]

A little has happened here as well







I am doing the preliminary filling with NCS Ultrabond in order to minimise the use of filler But it sure sands hard almost like sanding concrete
Armand

[wastedspark]

Thats some really impressive work, thanks for posting on the VZI forum,

[eben]

Impressive how intricate the door recesses are.