Aircooled VW South Africa

Hi

I drive a 1976 1600 beetle, and it has problems idleing..
Where do you adjust the idleing on a beetle?

Help please!!

On the Carb

Just jokes, depends what carb you running?
There normally is an idle adjustment screw. but dont touch the mixture control screw next to it. but firstly what carb and then we can go from there...

Hi

Well it is a twinport but it's not an sp so I guess it only has one carb..

Do you want to know more because that's all I know..

stay on line and i'll see what i can fish out for you. different carbs get adjusted in different ways...

You most likely have a 34 pict 3 carb, You can either turn the BIGGER screw on the left hand side near the float chamber(not the small mixture control screw). Or turning in the little screw on the throttle arm up by the fast idle adjustment cam? or must i put it simpler with pictures?

You meant to set those two up in conjunction with each other but thats another matter...

Thanks mate

I turned the little screw tighter on the throttel arm, its idleing much better now.
Will play around with it later to perfect it, but thanks a lot mate!
I owe you big time!!

On a 34PICT carb you should NOT use the idle screw on the throttle arm to adjust idle speed.

Use the volume control screw, which is the bigger of the two adjusting screws on the side of the carb, to adjust idle speed. As JamesD says, don't mess with the smaller screw (idle mixture) unless you really have to or unless you can smell that the idle mixture is over rich.

If you really have to adjust idle mixture, the rule of thumb is to seat the mixture screw then back it out 1.5 turns, then try adjusting idle with the volume control screw. If you can't find a steady idle, then screw the mixture screw IN a quarter turn at a time then try finding a steady idle with the volume control screw after each quarter turn. Ideally you should not mess with the idle mixture unless you have an exhaust gas analyser to hand.

The easiest place to do it is under the right foot....

Idleing problems can also be the distributor.....check crap ones can develop problems or ruff idleing....not steady.

Had idling problems, turned out the cut out jet on the carb was defective. The one that cuts fuel flow when you shut down the motor. Cut the valve off and the problem was solved. Just remember that you can end up with pre ignition if you do that. Pick your problem

SFDT wrote:Just remember that you can end up with pre ignition if you do that

Um??? The cut off switch was to stop the car dieseling... form of pre ignition i guess, but has nothing to do with pre ignition while the car is running ie, power to the solenoid...

Sorry thats what I meant

From Wikipedia

"Pre-ignition

Pre-ignition (or preignition) in a spark-ignition engine is a technically different phenomenon from engine knocking, and describes the event wherein the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites before the spark plug fires. Pre-ignition is initiated by an ignition source other than the spark, such as hot spots in the combustion chamber, a spark plug that runs too hot for the application, or carbonaceous deposits in the combustion chamber heated to incandescence by previous engine combustion events.

The phenomenon is also referred to as after-run, or run-on when it causes the engine to carry on running after the ignition is shut off, or sometimes dieseling. This effect is more readily achieved on carbureted gasoline engines, as the fuel supply to the carburetor is typically regulated by a passive mechanical float valve and fuel delivery can feasibly continue until fuel line pressure has been relieved, provided the fuel can be somehow drawn past the throttle plate. The occurrence is rare in modern engines with throttle-body or electronic fuel injection, as the injectors will not be permitted to continue delivering fuel after the engine is shut off, and any occurrence may indicate the presence of a leaking (failed) injector."