Doghouse setup for Single port engine

WestyT2 · Post by **WestyT2** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 5:20 pm

As most of you know I am a single port fan and use my bus to tour through Africa and I really enjoy it. The engine is very reliable (by the grace of God) and it is running very well. I want to know if the doghouse setup with the larger fan and bigger oil cooler and the fact that the oil cooler no longer obstructs air flow to no3 cylinder will make a difference to my single port engine, ie will it run cooler than with the sp setup? Why is it that no3 still runs hotter than the other even with the doghouse setup? Has anyone actually done the doghouse upgrade to a single port engine? Will everything still fit? What will I compromise if I upgrade to the doghouse setup? The bigger fan will draw more power from the engine to displace more air but maybe a cooler engine will give back the horses? Please give me honest advice. I dont want to mess up an excellent original bus.

Class 11 streeter · Post by **Class 11 streeter** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 10:12 pm

Not sure if IMPI is ok with this in his forum, but he can move it to another if he wishes.

I don't know if you just wish to add a doghouse shroud/parts and drive away, but if you are serious you might consider duplicating the entire 1971-up factory 1600 setup with a dual relief case, just with your SP heads. That means a new case.
The doghouse engines had the 1600 oil cooler which worked better then the older type but at the cost of being more fragile. Cold oil pressures can blow the doghouse cooler open without the pressure relief setup.
Of course, there is always someone who has "run the single relief case with the doghouse setup with no problem", but I challenge their word on actual running oil pressures (theirs may be low) and if you want reliable why not do what VW spend their money on developing for a reason? A side benefit of the doghouse setup is the no 3 cylinder stays a lot cleaner - ever see how much crud builds up behind the in-shroud oil cooler? The no 3 cyl still runs a bit warmer on doghouse style, but overall the engine cylinders run much closer in temperature and the engine makes better power.
The sole advantage the single port head has over the dual port is the single port is very resistant to cracking from overheating - still, do not make a habit of it.
If you just want a bit more power a pair of modest size twin carbs will do it easier and cheaper than a new engine, and a side benefit is the no 1 and 3 cyls can be made to run richer and, therefore, a bit cooler.

YMMV!

vader · Post by **vader** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:10 am

mmmm interesting....

WestyT2 · Post by **WestyT2** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 2:04 pm

[i]Sorry if I posted on the wrong forum, but I thought it made more sense here as it also involves a "shroud". Maybe IMPI can also give his comments?[/i]

Believe it or not, but if I look underneath my 1970 Bay window (Westfalia Camper 1600 sigle port) I can see that it actually has a dual relief case ! The Bus was imported directly from Germany. I am a big fan off single port heads for reliability and durability reasons.I travel long distances with my Bus (Namibia,Botawana,SA) and cruise at 55/60mph on a level road.Sometime I have to cross high mountain passes. If this doghouse setup can provide extra cooling without any disadvantages I will seriously consider it. I have heard that the oil cooler on the doghouse setup is more prone to oil leaks than in the sp setup. Will the generator setup work with the doghouse shroud?

Post by **calooker** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 3:29 pm

Dual relief single port cases were around for at least 1 year prior to the dual port head motors being produced on the Type1, Type3's motors had a dual port head motors a couple of years earlier than the Type1 motor. A dog house cooler with larger fan and oil cooler, will be a big improvement on you current cooling setup, your motor will run cooler, No. 3 cylinder will live a much happier life. It is a bolt on process, the only thing I would change is the mounting stud of the thin (SP) cooler from a 6mm to the larger 8mm stud, most already have the 8mm stud. The only reason a doghouse oil cooler could leak more oil than a thin (SP) cooler is because it has 2 more mechanical seals. I have done this upgrade before with no problems. Make sure you get all the correct plates that go with the doghouse.

WestyT2 · Post by **WestyT2** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 3:43 pm

Thanks Calooker. That is my next question. Obviously I need the doghouse fan housing/shroud, but what else of the sheet metal/plates need to be changed? Where can I get the stuff locally, or should I import it? Any rough estimate what it will cost?

Class 11 streeter · Post by **Class 11 streeter** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 7:51 am

WestyT2 wrote:Believe it or not, but if I look underneath my 1970 Bay window (Westfalia Camper 1600 sigle port) I can see that it actually has a dual relief case !

you lucky dog.......

WestyT2 wrote:I have heard that the oil cooler on the doghouse setup is more prone to oil leaks than in the sp setup.

Yes, you have 2 sets of seals and the oil cooler is on an adaptor instead of directly bolted to the case. Like calooker said upgrade the stud sizes.

WestyT2 wrote:Will the generator setup work with the doghouse shroud?

Yes. If you wish to upgrade to the Bosch alternator it's worth it.

WestyT2 wrote:Obviously I need the doghouse fan housing/shroud, but what else of the sheet metal/plates need to be changed?

The alternator/fan backing plates must be for the larger doghouse fan.

WestyT2 · Post by **WestyT2** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 9:12 am

Thanks. But will the backing plate for the larger fan work with the generator? If I decide to upgrade to to an alternator, I have heard that I will have to change the fuel pump and pushrod as well? What happens with the voltage regulator?

vader · Post by **vader** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:02 am

Don't you also have to change the pedestal to the shorter one as well?

Post by **IMPI** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 7:18 pm

Hi No Problem
Lots of later casings had a 6to8mm stud for the cooler so it is easy to change that.
The parts you need
Fanshroud
triangular duct behind cooler
tubular duct below triangular plate
front breast plate with hole for duct
wider late model fan.
oil cooler and pedestal
small plate that connects cooler to fanshroud.
the fan bolts up to the longer bus generator without problems

converting to an alternator
you need alternator
alt or beetle backing plates (front rear and stiffener plate)
Alternator stand
alternator fuel pump and shorter pushrod
I have seen some bugs using a genny pump with the alt but it is a very tight squeeze.
the carb may or may not foul the alt

As for cooling leaks etc
The dog house cools better
the leaks are just as much an issue with old steel coolers than late alu coolers the steel suffers more from mounting ears cracking,
The burst problem (NEVER REV A COLD ENGINE )
NEVER LEAVE ANY SHEET METAL OFF NEVER NEVER NEVER

Armand

vader · Post by **vader** » Thu Nov 02, 2006 9:10 am

I Smaak you Stikund!