Aircooled VW South Africa

Hi my name is Richard and I am only 16 but own a 1975 bug paid for by working at spur. Any way Since I am so young I have a lot of time to build up my 1600Tp so far I have decided to get a set of reconditioned heads(getting them at the end of the month) and 36mm IDF weber carbs(I have them) I have also had all my engine tin powder coated. My plan is to slowly build up all my parts over then next four or five years so that I DONT have to go the cheep Root. So if any one could advise what parts I should Be looking at and what I shouldn't be looking at. I also know a beetle mechanic in Grahamstown that can help me when I get stuck. I want some thing that is not going to get me killed but at the same time reach a descently high rpm with out killing its self, So that I can have some fun when I'm board I'm going to get my reconditioned heads board and get bigger valves put in. I am thinking some thing similar to Tony Z - 35 - in and 33 out or maybe a little smaller. Then I defiantly want to get a counter weight crank and external oil cooler and filter. I'm thinking In the range of R20 000 over the next 4 years and I know your probably saying that that is impossible but I have made R3000 just this holiday and it has only been 2 and a half weeks and It has all been spent on my orange bug so after getting my reconditioned heads I am going to be looking around for a set of manifolds, air filters and linkage kit for my weber carbs But I think that will have to wait till the next holidays.

also worked at spur..."im off nothing on..."haha dont miss those days at all,al my money went into my baja which is now my buggy...ok seeing that this is a long term thing you are spoilt for choice,but there are other factors now,easiest big motor to build would be 1915cc as it uses the stock crank but the stock crank is also limited in the rpm's it can handle so it will need to be counterweighted and stuff,but while the case is split and time is not a problem you mightaswell do teh cam and i think you can get a stock crank stroke to 74mm dont know aln the cons to this but will give you a 2054cc motor but without good heads and carbs (which you have) and the correct cam combo to flow the fuel and make the power at the revs you want it to make power ,size doesnt matter then,building a good motor is art its not just about just throwing part together,so there is many varibles to consider.so the best would be to start at a point i.e. what crank,what cam ect. for the application you want...there is a few motor builds on the forum that can be a guide line edmond's mild 1600,jamesd's 1776cc and the extreme tonyz's 2332cc monster..read through them and see why they chose what components for their motors...

Good luck Richard, planning is a big part of building so seems you on the right track.
3k for two weeks at the Spur ! man how things have changed since i took orders at the Spur

ja 3k will gedoen word...maybe i was just a waiter...

Lol I don't only work at spur I made R300 making and fixing some garden chairs, I going to paint some ones roof this weekend, I run a tuck shop at school (I make about 1k a term) I even put in a new geyser for my parents friends lol I ended up saving them R1500 In labor cause It would have cost them 2k just for labor Plumers must make a load of money( I'm not saying I want to be a plummer not that there is any thing wrong with it) it all adds up. I made R250 at spur last night but I must admit it is a job but money is money

O ya I also Bought a 4-1 exhaust from Rui about a month back and I love it. could you get any thing for one of thought local exhaust cause I dont think I will need it but If I only get like R50 for it then Its worth keeping it.

Hows this for a bargain I got this threading set (it is metric) for R50 at a sale

that is agood buy if the die are still fine,bought one for the work the other day 400 bucks each

I took It a guy who does metal work he said evey thing is Still 100%

mg12werr wrote: I'm going to get my reconditioned heads board and get bigger valves put in. I am thinking some thing similar to Tony Z - 35 - in and 33 out or maybe a little smaller. Then I defiantly want to get a counter weight crank and external oil cooler and filter. I'm thinking In the range of R20 000 .

Good to see you willing to put up a good budget.

First things first tho - brakes and suspension
then do the engine

The valve sizes you mention above (35-33) are the stock twin port valve sizes. Good up to around 100hp when the heads are done properly.
My 2332 has 44 inlets and 38 exhausts - much to big for anything you want to do on your budget.

For ease of build, price and reliabilty, I would say 1915, with 110 cam.. I am not sure if the 36IDFs will be able to cope with the demands and for that fact, the heads with stock valve sizes might be your limiting factor too. But heck, you will have plenty power from idle up to where you run out of steam. This will easily put any stock GTI or VTEC in your rear window.

If you want more, open the valves to 40x35, get bigger carbs and 1.25:1 rockers.
Even just adding 1.25:1 rockers to the stock valve sized heads will wake things up a little more, more power at lower rpm all the way up until it runs out of breathing ability.

If you are limited to the stock valves and 36IDFs, and you definitely want revs, then consider a 1776. You wont get any more or any less power than the 1915, but you will be able to rev slightly higher and the power will max higher in the rpm range too.

Plenty choices.... keep your eyes open, start reading and once you deicde what you want to build, dont change your mind, just stick with it.

Tony Z wrote:

mg12werr wrote: I'm going to get my reconditioned heads board and get bigger valves put in. I am thinking some thing similar to Tony Z - 35 - in and 33 out or maybe a little smaller. Then I defiantly want to get a counter weight crank and external oil cooler and filter. I'm thinking In the range of R20 000 .

Good to see you willing to put up a good budget.

First things first tho - brakes and suspension
then do the engine

The valve sizes you mention above (35-33) are the stock twin port valve sizes. Good up to around 100hp when the heads are done properly.
My 2332 has 44 inlets and 38 exhausts - much to big for anything you want to do on your budget.

For ease of build, price and reliabilty, I would say 1915, with 110 cam.. I am not sure if the 36IDFs will be able to cope with the demands and for that fact, the heads with stock valve sizes might be your limiting factor too. But heck, you will have plenty power from idle up to where you run out of steam. This will easily put any stock GTI or VTEC in your rear window.

If you want more, open the valves to 40x35, get bigger carbs and 1.25:1 rockers.
Even just adding 1.25:1 rockers to the stock valve sized heads will wake things up a little more, more power at lower rpm all the way up until it runs out of breathing ability.

If you are limited to the stock valves and 36IDFs, and you definitely want revs, then consider a 1776. You wont get any more or any less power than the 1915, but you will be able to rev slightly higher and the power will max higher in the rpm range too.

Plenty choices.... keep your eyes open, start reading and once you deicde what you want to build, dont change your mind, just stick with it.

x2

R20k is a good budget, I have about R13500 sunk into my mild 1600 engine and its nothing special but it was a from scratch build and I did get a few extra things done to it

parts wise i put in about 16k - 17k. after the professional rebuild my total came to around 29k with the parts. and i still need to add another 1 or 2 grands worth of goodies at the 1000 km service. but the 3 quick drives i have taken it for last weekend have made it all worth it!

But ya, my power kicks in rather late it seems. haven't taken it past 3500rpm. but you lack power until 2400 and then the car just almost instantly jumps to 3500. cant wait to open it up after the break in. i can already outrun my brothers puma's with just the 3500 rpm limit

By the way, the external oil cooler is nice, but its a shitty job installing it above the gearbox.

[quote="Tony Z"]If you are limited to the stock valves and 36IDFs, and you definitely want revs, then consider a 1776. You wont get any more or any less power than the 1915, but you will be able to rev slightly higher and the power will max higher in the rpm range too.''

What are the pros and cons with going 1776?
What are the pros and cons with going 1915?

My trancmision Is in need of repair or replacment so Im still deciding what to do with that ( IF I try take of on a up hill and the revs are above 2500rpm it shuders and jumps out of gear )