Betty the Oval - Donovan D - ex-MINCE

[MINCE]

thanks dude

[retrovan]

btw, I have decided to not do the 12V conversion.
I think part of the charm of this car is that it was originally 6V and I would like to keep it that way.

I Think that when you restore a car for its charm, and drive it every now and then, the 6V is best to keep..
BUT..
If you want to use the car as a every day runner, the cold start not happening, the bad head lights could lead to running some one over, the bad tail lights lead to some one running into the back of you, someone turning in front of you because they could not see your indicators, not being able to see when it rains, .......
these should be considered.....................................

As I have been taken to task, on my comments of 6v verses 12v, by some "purists", let me justify my position.
When you restore, for the sake of "Restore" put it back how it was. (6v)
When you want to enjoy the car and you are not mechanically "challenged" then also go for 6v, as you would constantly, clean contacts, on Voltage regulator, wire connections,fuse connections, brushes and so more,
WHY you ask, ....all together........
Well its simple Electrical Theory, when using 6v you have DOUBLE the current going through the joints, and cables, so you corrode the joints much faster, leading to "DRY" joints, which prevent current going through, and making nothing work. Also you need wire twice as thick, to carry the load, and when not right, you burn out the car.
This is why all car makers have gone to 12v.
If you are mechanically "challenged", and hate working on cars, go 12 Volt.

I feel that as I some times do not restore a car fully to its original state, My "restoration" will retain the car for a hell of a long time, so that when somebody wants to restore to Original, it would be easy to do as vital parts are not effected.
...................SO ENDDITH THE SERMON.......
Herman

[Tony Z]

dont forget, 12V electrics need better insulation than 6V. Less current = thinner cable = less copper = cheaper. More voltage = more insulation.
There are plenty manufacturers who are talking about taking cars up to 48V because of modern current demands in certain areas, but also because of the cost of 100km of copper wire in each car. 48V needs half the core area, so half the copper.

[MINCE]

so what you guys are saying is that it is cool to keep 6V but it would be better to convert to 12V.
Cool, then I will need a 12V starter motor that will fit a 1200 motor. I will also need a 12V generator and I will need all regulators to go with it.

Are there 12V starters that I can use that will fit? Is there a difference in sizes?
Basically that is my needs at the moment. My semaphores are 6V, could I get a voltage reduction box to run them or do I spend nearly 2K on each new 12V semaphore?

[1972]

I know you get adaptors that take 12v to 220v, so im sure you will be able to find 12v to 6v reducers.

You can also have a reducer made, we used 12v to 220v custom adaptors to run all our DVD and our 220v systems on the landcruiser.

There is a place in PTA called Electronics 123, give them a call on 012 3322356.

Talk to them about what needs to be done and if they dont have they should be able to build.

[MINCE]

Just collected my rear wheel cylinders. Both of them, only one in the picture, but damn they are pretty things.
Can't wait till they actually stop the car to justify the HUGE cost!! Expensive little bastards they were!

[lowlight]

AFAIK 6V starter motor works fine with 12v. 12V startermotor got finer gears (teeth) and then you will need a different flywheel and starter bush in the gearbox as the shaft diameter of the starter is different.

[MINCE]

thank you for that valuable information.
Much appreciated

[MINCE]

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!
although not a big one...

Guys. I am happy to say that FINALLY the tir rods are all painted and installed and are ready for adjustment when the brakes and wheels are back on. SWEET! (Nothing like really minor milestones...)
I also attacked the body with sandpaper and a can of primer-grey aerosol paint. the exposed bits of metal are temporarily sorted to prevent any further rusting. SO that feels good.
I got the remaining bits of the first bug and so I have a few things for sale, but not much. That will be in another post.

I also saw that I have 3 standard 15" steel wheels in various stages of rust and one 14" wide-5 steel rim! O_o Anyone have more information on this? Are they rare? Pictures below:





I have 2 bumbers which both are for one end of the car, cant tell for which side though.



I have a spare gearbox (for a 1200).



Next weekend I will be stripping the front brakes so can sort out the backing plates to get them clean, sanded and painted. Will also clean the shoes, give the springs and such a nice clean too and then reinstall everything and put the drums back on. The rear will be putting in new seals and will do the same to those backing plates. But cannot assemble those because i do not have all the spring and clips and such. That will have to come from the 2nd oval.

[MINCE]

Just had a cool thought, I just thought of restoring that 14" rim, and painting it "spare wheel orange" and keeping it as a spare!
That could be quite cool

[retrovan]

That is a good idea....

Had a problem getting a tyre and rim to fit in my spare slot, for the 1959 Beetle........

165 15 was to thick.....
Had to hunt for an old 150 x 15 for it to fit in.
So... maybe you should test it first.............

[MINCE]

fo sho!

[MINCE]

Another update for y'all!
On saturday I handed over the set of bus wheels to Muderick. Cool guy. Had a rad chat. Nice bay dude!

then, i went back to grab the brakes backing plates off of the axles. I removed the fronts easily. The rear on the other hand was a bit of a frikken mission.
It was tough. At least I have a set of new seals to replace the ones I had to remove.

Then, I attacked the plates with grease remover and engine cleaner (the rear plates had transmission oil all over them). Cleaned them up then inspected them it terms of how i will sand them. I came to the conclusion that I do not want to sand them (because of the various difficult to reach with sandpaper parts) and instead decided to send them out for an acid-bath or something and a proper paint job.

SO! Where to go? suggestions needed pleasey weasey

(i reckon it must be a painful thing telling various people of places to go to that may have been mentioned before, but there is no real resource of suppliers that is in one place to go to.)

[MINCE]

OH! Another thing that keeps leaving my mind (because I am not working with it just yet), the body does not have the Identity plates in the spare wheel area!

Advise!!!!!!

[MINCE]

Okay. So far, looks like I will be running the beetle on a 6V system, untill the guy that has fixed my semaphores finds out what he can find out about options about converting the Genny to 12V. Not gonna hold my breath.

At least I have what I need for the 6V system to work, barring a battery (will have to save up for that).

I will want to replace the wiring loom completely, and fit in a proper fuse box. I will also need to get a whole bunch of regulators and switchs, of which I want 2 of each (for when one blows, I have an instant spare).

Then I will have to find out how I can best have bright front and rear lights. Might have to put something in to up the voltage for the lights
(note to self: get that awesome battery charger like my dad has)