Aircooled VW South Africa

Hi all, two questions....Is this a good conversion to do ? Second question ....How much will it cost me ?

depends how you do it...
conversion kit = bad
proper electronic ignition with TCI unit and electronic coil = good

Many many years ago, I bought a Petronix kit for my 79 MK1 golf. It worked very very well, drove it more than 8 years, no issues at all.

This was the people I bought it from, IF my memory serves me well.

Bruce Williams - Offshore Marine International
Tel/Fax 021-786-1007
Cell - 082-491-8536

I had my ignition system converted to a electronic one about a year ago and have had no problems with it, starts perfect each time!
The whole thing cost me R1350 at Distributor rebuild center which included the rebuild of the dizzy,new coil and control module.

My Beetle has one. no prolblems. T4 electronic dizy, Golf 1 module, made-up harness by those guys in Primrose.
The hole thing cost less them a grand.

Okay, third question, Volkspares have a complete unit, based on a golf unit I believe, anybody used this and what is your opinion on install and the reliability ?

built one for my beetle 2 years ago, took a golf dizzy and fitted the goodies in a beetle dizzy. uses a standard golf loom and tp 1oo and electronic coil. never given any issues!

sdudum wrote:Okay, third question, Volkspares have a complete unit, based on a golf unit I believe, anybody used this and what is your opinion on install and the reliability ?

Here you go, http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 905-205-EL its a plug in and play, no harness, no wiring looms, no computer chip reset.

Just stick it in the hole of your distributor, fit red to + on coil and black on - on coil, and drive.......

Got one some time ago, works brilliant.

Herman

damn good looking dizzy / idea

Two things I note from looking at the advert...
1) you will probably have to remove your fuel pump and fit a blanking plate to make space for the module. Then buy an electric pump
2) you need a stock beetle coil, not an electronic coil.

Please correct me if I am wrong retro?

retrovan wrote:

sdudum wrote:Okay, third question, Volkspares have a complete unit, based on a golf unit I believe, anybody used this and what is your opinion on install and the reliability ?

Here you go, http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 905-205-EL its a plug in and play, no harness, no wiring looms, no computer chip reset.

Just stick it in the hole of your distributor, fit red to + on coil and black on - on coil, and drive.......

Got one some time ago, works brilliant.

Herman

That looks quite impressive..

Tony Z wrote:damn good looking dizzy / idea

Two things I note from looking at the advert...
1) you will probably have to remove your fuel pump and fit a blanking plate to make space for the module. Then buy an electric pump On the 1200 36HP, it slips right in... On the 1600 s/p it may get tight if your timing is out, but the electronic block is just miss of the fuel pump.... On the Type 4 it gets Very tight, had to remove Electronics block from side of distributor (wires are quit long) and fit it to the tin or to new place on the dizzy.
2) you need a stock beetle coil, not an electronic coil. Have not tried it with an electronic coil, but works wonders with a stranded coil..

Please correct me if I am wrong retro?

But your way will also work well...

Herman

From the previous reply:

"works wonders with a stranded coil.."

Would that be:
a) A coil wound from stranded wire in stead of solid core wire? or:
b) The type of coil that leaves one "stranded" next to the road?

On a more serious note:

Note that the CIP distributor has full centrifugal advance in already at 2400 rpm's. In stead of 3400 rpm's as most standard type 1/ type 4 from the 70's had. Which means it has more advance at 2400 rpm's.
For most typical USA modified engines this is good. (Long duration cam, which looses some power at low rpm's, and large-venturi carbs which also looses some bottom end. So the extra advance earlier helps in that situation without causing knocking/pinging.
But keep this in mind when using on a standard engine at sea level/ low altitude.
Highveld altitude (less dense air), should not be an issue.

If one prefer electronic ignition, ask yourself for which reason. Is this because you do not want to verify/adjust timing at each 10 000 kilos when the valve clearances needs to be adjusted in any case?
Or do you want a stronger spark for easier starting in cold wet conditions, etc.

Remember that a points replacement unit that retains a standard 3 ohm primary resistance coil will have no stronger spark than using points. This module is nothing more than a very simple trigger and switch. Still the same barely adequate spark as a points/condenser system.


In contrast, the proper TCI or "HEI" as used by VW and others have a proper "brain" which senses engine speed and drastically varies dwell as rpm's change. They also measure current drawn by the coil and limit coil current to protect. These units use a coil which has only 0.3 to 0.7 ohms primary resistance (in stead of 3 ohms), and no ballast resistor. Basically less energy is wasted as heat, (no separate ballast resistor or 3 ohm coil which has built in ballast resistance and runs hot). More energy is usefully applied to the spark with proper HEI system or CDI.

A high energy electronic ignition system could also be triggered by points. Porsche did this from late 60's to mid 70's. Points will last much longer, as it's now only switching a few milliamps. In fact i did more than 100 000 kilos on a set of points used only as trigger. Still needs adjustment, although now not as frequent.

details on that particular setup?

i would think the move to electronic dizzy's would be more for a maintenance/peace of mind point of view. no more worrying about burnt point etc, just a quick and easy adjustment at service.

MarshallGTi wrote:...
I would think the move to electronic dizzy's would be more for a maintenance/peace of mind point of view. no more worrying about burnt point etc, just a quick and easy adjustment at service.

You hit the nail on the head.

Dawie is VERY correct with his explanation, but I for one wanted something that takes the "Brake Down" out of VW driving.

The constant Corrosion of burnt points, or if low voltage here on the coast, Oxidisation of points, the "Dwell Angle" the Point gap, the Bad wire connections, and so on.

YES I have the old Standard dizzy in the boot, with the other 1000 parts that I ride around with, but it is not a full rewire, its simple, if it out, we stick in the Old Dizzy, and on the road again before the lights change.

If you want a full electronic, management system, with pre ignition and post ignition, have a full system fitted.
But must agree with your full write up, Dawie, well put.

Herman