Aircooled VW South Africa

Tony Z wrote:all I know is that nothing is as smooth as individual intake runners. 1 carb per cylinder.
Also, because you tune each cylinder and there is no cross sharing, then each one is set up as it wants to be. Smoother, better fuel economy and more performance if you need it.
O yes, lets not forget the sound!!

so going uphill affects the float chamber, ask HR-Mandy...

Dawie wrote:Of course 4 individual runners will be the ultimate, but ICT's and PDSIT's are so "similar sized" to each other. The reason I like the Weber ICT, is its simplicity, I do feel the Solex is to complex for a car as a VW

Before giving up on the solexes:

Remember that:
1) The 34PDSIT2/3's NEEDS the standard 230mm distance of intake ducting to the air filter. Nothing shorter. The 1800 and 2l versions of those carbs have a special version of the pressed in emulsion tube that compensates for the pulsing effect interaction with standard factory aircleaner setup. Removing this or fitting individual filters severely upsets jetting and will cause lean running at full throttle, loss of power and overheating. This is especially true at sea level altitude. The earlier 1700 version of those carbs have a different emulsion tube and is slightly more tolerant to this. I am using the STD type 4 air filter se-tup, so no problem there.

2) Needle and seat should be 1.2mm (standard factory size) and not 1.5mm as supplied in some pirate kits. Some pirate needle& seats are poor quality. The old genuine needle& seat can be lapped by using brasso and a hand drill and some ingenuity. Have the float at approx. 14 mm but thinking of dropping to 16 mm

3) Float level is critical and should be no closer to the top than 14mm, 15mm is still acceptable. (Some old specs mentioned 12-14mm, and 12 or 13mm give problems).

4) Fuel pressure: These carbs have tiny floats and are hyper- sensitive to fuel pressure.
Forget about the 3.5 psi max specs you read in some manuals. Rather use 1.5- 2 psi or 2.5 psi as absolute max limit. Proper fuel pressure regulator will help. (Not those "fuel restrictors" sold as "regulators"). That said, i also still have one of those old "Facet clackers" on my type 4/split kombi application, and operation is borderline. Must still make a plan there. (Gearbox bracket is in the way of standard type 4 mechanical fuel pump mounting position). Have the Facet pump on but should look for a regulator

5) If your Brasilia has a brake booster, test for vacuum leaks at the non return valve area at the back, also inspect the flexible front pipe at the booster. Was very hit and miss, so I opened it, machined it, and sealed it again so now its a true shut-off every time
But: Point number 1 is most important. As in do'nt even start the engine without at least those two 90 degree air cleaner extension elbows attached. The difference is vast. For lowest fuel consumption, also retain the factory hot air intake pre- heating system. (Which only operates at light loads and automatically reverts to cold air at full throttle).

retrovan wrote:Well, fitted new rubber brake hoses, today, nothing wrong with the old ones, well not that I could see, but did not want to take that risk, as the Fugly is going to George on its maiden voyage.

Bled the brakes, and re-set the front wheel bearings, now that we have done 100 Km.

Should the snow at the British airports clear, then the Webers will continue there trip down south.

Hope to have them on for the trip.

Seat belts fitted, and carpet placed in cab.

Wipers and temp. outside mirrors fitted for the trip.

Will post photo's of Webers fitted, and post report of test run.

Herman