Aircooled VW South Africa

Hi guy thought I'd just post on the forum and find out about a stronger box.

I'm sure there are a few guys interested in something stronger.

Hope bugger will get involved in this one as its actually directed at him.

When building the upgraded box do you use the same gearbox that is currently in the car or is a new casing used?

What kind of power and punishment can a upgraded box take?

Do we use the same clutch setup and starter or do we modify again.

Currently have a copper clutch standard beetle size.

Car was dyno'd again and results were 174hp/132kw and 214nm.

I may possibly be able to get a complete box for nothing so was hoping to send the casing in while I still use the car.

What is the cost of a buggered box?

A buggered box is cheap, a Buggered box less so...

And well worth it, of course.

Qkickslvr wrote:
Car was dyno'd again and results were 174hp/132kw and 214nm.

Shame, is that all. I am getting that N/A with an aircooled T1

Anyway, Bugger built me a gearbox a while back. Plenty specs, but I basically told him I didnt want it to break ever. I also gave him a few special instructions and he followed them thru to a T.
Box is perfect.

BTW, that copper clutch will eat your flywheel. Get a bigger pressure plate and go with a different design or a stock style clutch.
My 4puck spring loaded copper clutch with a std pressure plate lasted 2 hard starts before it slipped itself BADLY and warped my flywheel. So much so that after re-skimming it took about 30g of weight removal to balance it again.

Qkickslvr wrote:Hi guy thought I'd just post on the forum and find out about a stronger box.

I'm sure there are a few guys interested in something stronger.

Hope bugger will get involved in this one as its actually directed at him.

I`m On it

When building the upgraded box do you use the same gearbox that is currently in the car or is a new casing used?

All depending to what spec you want a box built
I normally use a SFAS coded box as a donor due to it have a 3.88Ring and Pinnion the strongest available std from Volkswagen used in Beetle transmissions
I can either use the box in your car or a donor that was Lying around


What kind of power and punishment can a upgraded box take?

My Stage 1 Box is good for 160Kw on the wheels and will take some serious Punishment as long as my suggested mountings are used there are 2 bugs
From Pietersburg running more than 180Kw on the wheels with a styage 1
If you really want you will mostprobable be able to breake a stage one with a stock beetle motor with a strong clutch so anything has a limit I have just Built a Box
for someone in Namibia that Imported a Rancho box and traded it in by me for my stage 1 and got the mail yesterday that he is very happy
After Stage 1 You can fit a Chrome molly Main shaft at a cost of R13500 and Chrome molly side shafts R7000 all depending on the Exchange rate
So My Box in The Fly is worth R50K with all the stuff my CLUTCH MASTERS Multiplate clutch was R8k alone

Lee makes 274Kw on the wheels and his box has been staying together now for about a year but if his head leves his body for a split second and one very hard clutch pop something will say POP


Do we use the same clutch setup and starter or do we modify again.

If your clutch do not slip no need to change

Currently have a copper clutch standard beetle size.

I actually think you have a 215mm coper clutch and that should be good for now till you turn the boost up to .8bar

Car was dyno'd again and results were 174hp/132kw and 214nm.

And I am sure this is at about .4bar where the std Rotary waste gate operates and opens this was more the power I was expecting
From a std turbo motor as the others made so the dyno where your car was tuned by Juan was a big lier but still your bug pulls nicely

I may possibly be able to get a complete box for nothing so was hoping to send the casing in while I still use the car.

For the upgrade make sure the code is AFAS

What is the cost of a buggered box?

You can PM me for pricing as there are different options but basic Stage 1 is R13500 cry once and enjoy the bug as it saves you alot of labor removing and installing
every time you break a std box

Hope that answers some of your Questions

I have built a box with longer 4th gear for a Fleetline with a Golf motor in Capetown recently and the owner also could not stop talking about the changes on the highway
Think it is one of Jolas`s friends maybe Paul can comment

Hey great stuff Pierre really appreciate the input. Will definitely drop by soon to start discussing a box!

Cool

Just some info that Actually go in to a Stage 1 Box

I use a Type 2 Spline main shaft that have 9 teeth on 1st gear (The Yanks use for their Pro street box a 10 tooth Keyed Main shaft Which have a weaker 1st as it have
1 extra teeth so that makes that the size of the teeth are slight smaller and weaker than the 9 tooth , Also Strong HP Motors Like I have even Cut the Hardened Reyes used
on a Keyed Main shaft so the Spline shaft is also superior to the Keyed )

Then On 1st 2nd gear the Selector fork gets changed to a Steel selector fork as the Brass one always break the back side of the selector off on hard shifting

I use special syncro rings on 2nd and 3de gear that I get from the states that is allot stronger than the normal ones (Here also the Yanke Pro street boxes don't use the Better Quality ones as I have stripped about 4 Pro-street boxes and investigated what they use and repaired them )

Steel cage bearings are used as they can run hotter when driven hard in 4th gear for long periods of time on the highway

Gear carrier also the selector shafts gets some re-bushing for better shifting

Special thrust type bearing used on the mainshaft with a collar to help with the thrust

Thrust plate between the gear carrier and nose cone to prevent the main shaft bearing eating in the the magnesium nose cone when hard Launches are done

Change 3de fine theeth gear to Coarse type gear std or longer or shorter ratio depending on what the client want

Change 4th gear from fine teeth to Coarse teeth and fit a longer ratio that help with highway croozing by bringing the Rpm down by 300Rpm as most guys that go for stage 1 have enough power to pull the longer 4th and normally play with the other cars 1st 2nd and 3de then you already 150Km/h in town then it its time to slow down

Weld the hubs to the gears of 3de and 4th to prevent hub spinning

4Spider Super diff go in place of the std 2 spider gear diff which is not only stronger but helps hugelay with traction with a super diff in a Bug you will notice that when you pull away hard and the wheels go in to a wheel spin that both wheels spin and leave marks but before with a 2spider diff only one wheel spin and you lose traction

Also a Heavy duty Alluminium Side cover to help prevent the pinnion shaft pushing the ring gear out of the box and help with trans flexing

Then there are Quite a few small tricks of the trade that I incorporate in the box like changing clearances etc to make the box last better

Even a client supply me a SFAS Box for stage 1 I use 2 other boxes to build a stage 1 ready for play

Hope this gives you guys an Idea what goes in to a Buggerd Box

I must say Pierre I'm a bit scared to push hard in 3rd and 4th at the moment the gearbox feels like it wants to explode!!!

I'm gonna definatly do a stage one but it needs to handle 200kw that's my target for the yellow monster. I must say after this most recent dyno session the car feels a lot smoother and more responsive.

Look forward to the next event I'm sure I'll be ready by then.

Can you maybe post some of the pics and videos of the yellow monster on the fb page.

Thanks Oom!!

Bugger wrote:*snip*

sounds like a decent amount of work. one day when i'm big . . .

Qkickslvr wrote:I must say Pierre I'm a bit scared to push hard in 3rd and 4th at the moment the gearbox feels like it wants to explode!!!

I'm gonna definatly do a stage one but it needs to handle 200kw that's my target for the yellow monster. I must say after this most recent dyno session the car feels a lot smoother and more responsive.

Look forward to the next event I'm sure I'll be ready by then.

Can you maybe post some of the pics and videos of the yellow monster on the fb page.

Thanks Oom!!

Send me a mail to then I can send you the pics I got and then The video clips then you can load it there If I dont get it right to load

Very nice information Pierre I have wanted to do the upgrade for some time but the std box is still surviving for now. Want to do the clutch now and maybe start saving for the box and engine upgrades. Thinking of turning up the boost so I'm pushing my luck with the std box at the moment.

When you are ready

We will be building a 2L Type 4 Turbo motor for a Client in DBN And I will be Building him a stage 1 Or Newly christened a PRO STREET as the Yanks call theirs

As we are talking about boxes I also have a question. I see that for off-road use most yanks use a gearbox from a bus. Is this in fact stronger or are the ratios lower?

Would you need to modify your standard type 1 chassis to fit this box?

cheers

Dave

As we are talking about boxes I also have a question. I see that for off-road use most yanks use a gearbox from a bus. Is this in fact stronger or are the ratios lower?

Would you need to modify your standard type 1 chassis to fit this box?

cheers

Dave

As we are talking about boxes I also have a question. I see that for off-road use most yanks use a gearbox from a bus. Is this in fact stronger or are the ratios lower?

Would you need to modify your standard type 1 chassis to fit this box?

cheers

Dave